| Author | Message | ||
     Rwcfrank |
Which is better (more acurate) way to adjust the primary chain? Hot or cold or it makes no difference? | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Cold because trying to adjust hot would be at engine operating temp and that wouldn't be fun. Cold spec is different than hot spec. | ||
| Rwcfrank |
Good point, thanks! | ||
| Ratbuell |
Either works. Wear gloves. I tend to do a hot adjust because my bike is hot when I'm riding it... | ||
| 911_racer |
Ratbuell, how do you adjust the chain while riding? dude you got skills. when I was little I tried to adjust the spokes on my bicycle with my toes going down a hill. didnt work to well. | ||
| Miamiuly |
Kind of makes sense to set it while hot since the bike will be hot during operation. Cold would be easier and I would guess they did a good job on specs allowing for heat expansion. (Message edited by miamiuly on May 12, 2008) | ||
| Irelage |
Is it easy to do and what are the basic steps? What service intervals is it adjusted at? | ||
| Ratbuell |
nono...I don't adjust while riding, silly. I'd spill my beverage (a required tool in my garage). Ride bike. Get it hot. Return to garage. Check/adjust before bike cools. Medicate hot hands with cold beverage. Repeat as required  | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Here's a good idea for a BadWeb sponsor. Make us an auto adjusting primary chain tensioner like Harley puts in it's big twins. Make and sell it in the U.S.A. as I don't want to have to buy from another country. No more than $100 for it or you're gouging. And most of you guys have probably never seen an auto primary chain tensioner working while the engine is running. I've watched mine on my glide through the primary inspection hole and the shoe moves up and down as it cycles through the tight spots. It definetly helps the shifting and it's just one less thing you have to maintain once it's in place. Naysayers who haven't used one need not weigh in on the subject. Mines got 37,000 miles on it and I've never touched it since I installed it. (Message edited by electraglider_1997 on May 13, 2008) | ||
| 911_racer |
I would be interested in a auto adjuster. I think it would help alot with shifting. also how many miles can one expect a chain to last before it needs replacement? | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
They used to sell M6 for sportsters but they had a tendency of failing when installed in older buells. More force-full engine braking perhaps? | ||
| Pso |
I agree with electroglider. I would like an auto chain adjuster for both the Uly and the Scg. Just another item to make the bike more maintenance free. | ||
| Blake |
No more than $100 or you're gouging? Go for it! I'd easily pay $200 for a robust, reliabl, install it and forget it, auto-tensioner. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Harleys are $99 Haydens about the same. | ||
| Towjam |
Harley has had the auto primary chain adjuster starting with the '06 Dynas. Is the Sportster/Buell tranny so different that they can't fit an auto adjuster from the factory????? | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Harley seems to take a measured approached to everything they do in regards to updating their motorcycles. Just look how long it took for them to rubber-mount the Sportster engine and then a few years more to fuel inject it. With that in mind, I'd guess that an auto primary chain tensioner will be added within the next couple of years. Hopefully Buell MC will beat them to the punch with a version of their own that will retrofit to our bikes. | ||
| Skullym1 |
I've only had the bike for a short time. How often does the primary chain normall need an adjustment. What are the telltale signs that it's out of adjustment? | ||
| Ratbuell |
It's scheduled for the 1k service and I believe the 5k and 10k as well. It's super-simple to do and only takes a few minutes. You'll note harder shifting, a "rattle" sound coming from the case, and possibly (in extreme cases of maladjustment) more drivetrain slop as you transition on/off the throttle. | ||
| Brakes2late |
Will it shift harder if the chains too loose or too tight? As best I can tell mine is adjusted to the loose end of the spec. | ||
| Ratbuell |
If you're out of spec either way, your trans will work like your clutch is mis-adjusted. Heavy clunk, hard to find N, heavy shift effort. | ||
| Dick_stilton |
To RWCfrank - Thanks for starting this thread. I now know that my primary chain needs adjusting. | ||
| Bad_karma |
I'd be happier with an enclosed belt, with no adjustment. Joe | ||
| Gsilvernale |
When checking your chain, the manual says to advance the sprocket. So you can measure it at various positions, find the tightest and adjust there. So how do people "advance" the sprocket? I was doing a quick poke on the starter button. But then you have no real idea on how far you advanced it. | ||
| S_boy |
as a road king owner and an XT wanna-be, i'll chime in if you don't mind. i made the 1st 2 chain adjustments on my king, then finally installed the auto adjuster. to be honest it probably wasn't necessary since after the first 1 or 2 adjustments, the chain pretty much will not require adjusting again. it is best to adjust cold, using the cold specs. bumping the chain with the starter is a good method - just check your slack after each bump. i doubt you will find the measurements change at all. this is one procedure that most folks worry about more than its worth. | ||
| Teeps |
S_boy Posted on Sunday, May 18, 2008 this is one procedure that most folks worry about more than its worth. I agree, I adjusted it at 5k, and at the 10k mark the chain was still in spec. I've never had a problem finding neutral, or shifting either up or down... | ||
| Ratbuell |
If you want to know exactly how far you've advanced the chain, remove your spark plugs, put the bike in gear (higher is better) and lift the rear wheel off the ground. Use the rear wheel as your "lever" to spin everything. | ||
| Arcticktm |
You can also get by without removing the spark plugs, since that would add a lot to the time and effort. Put the bike in 5th gear and rear wheel off the ground. Give a manly turn to the rear wheel. Go slow, as you will be fighting engine compression. It will move enough that you can check to make sure your primary chain is not suffering from tight/loose spots. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
The tight loose thing is eliminated with an auto-tensioner. Listening Erik?? |
