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Tipsymcstagger
Posted on Monday, May 19, 2008 - 10:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm going to commence farkling in a couple of days. Two items on the list include HID's and a set of Piaa 510's.

I originally planned to replace only the low-beam with an HID and switch the Piaa's via a positive pulse Autoswitch (AS5P2) triggered by the flash-to-pass.

But the HID kit I bought has two full sets of lights and after seeing Maximum shoehorn four of those slim ballasts under the flyscreen, I figured I can fit two without too much trouble. With an HID on the high beam, I don't want to use the flash-to-pass for the Piaa's since pulsing is not good for the HID ballasts (I also rethought using the positive pulse Autoswitch after realizing the pulse is ineffective when the high beam circuit is powered - e.g., the high beam is "on").

So now my plan is to use the AS5NB2. This is designed to function via a ground "pulse" from the turn signal press-to-cancel switch. The AS5NB2 is described as being for BMW's (non-CANBus) but I'm wondering if anyone sees any reason why I couldn't use it on the Uly's press-to-cancel switch? I'm assuming th Uly's turn signal cancel switch generates a ground to cancel the signal but I don't know for sure. If this is in fact the case, shouldn't the AS5NB2 work just fine?

Tipsy
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Darthane
Posted on Tuesday, May 20, 2008 - 08:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You'd have to look at a schematic to be sure, but I think the cancellation button on our Buells simply kills the 12V feed into the flasher, not grounds anything as a cancellation signal.
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Tipsymcstagger
Posted on Tuesday, May 20, 2008 - 09:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I took a look at the schematic but I'm not exactly sure what I'm looking at. I was expecting to see a wire exiting the left hand control depicted as "turn signal cancel." There isn't. There is a violet wire that goes to the LH turn signals, a brown wire that goes to the RH turn signals and a violet/brown wire that goes to the flasher.

The flasher itself has three wires. The aforementioned violet/brown from the left hand control, an orange/white that appears to be switched power (it's on the accessory 10amp fuse) and a ground.

The only option I see would be to connect the Autoswitch to the ground wire from the flasher. But I have no idea if this will work.

Tipsy
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Darthane
Posted on Tuesday, May 20, 2008 - 10:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The ground wire from the flasher is always grounded - you'd have to insert some switch into it just like any other ground wire. To my knowledge, none of our [rider] accessible switches are low-side switches.

What you posted confirmed my previous statement - the turn signal switch is connecting 12V from the flasher when you engage it, pressing the cancellation switch just disengages it. It's not a switch-to-ground like you're looking for (well, rather, it is, but the ground is found through the lamp bulbs).

The cleanest solution is probably to mount a small momentary-contact switch on one side or the other that's in reach of your thumb. The bonus to adding it yourself is that you can get a latching switch, and keep the PIAAs on rather than having them function like a FTP only.

****EDIT: After actually looking at the link you provided (bad Bryan!), it looks like this AutoSwitch thing essentially is a latching switch. Tap on, tap off - ignore the latching switch comment above.

If you're dead-set on using something already on the bike and don't want to mess with the existing lighting switch setup, you could consider the horn switch, but obviously that means your horn would not function (on the plus side, think of all the weight you'll save by removing it! ; ) ).

(Message edited by darthane on May 20, 2008)

(Message edited by darthane on May 20, 2008)
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Tipsymcstagger
Posted on Tuesday, May 20, 2008 - 10:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Bummer...not what I was hoping to hear.

I guess I'll just mount the factory Piaa switch inside the hand guard or something.

Or I'll see if I can find a very small lighted switch to mount in the left hand control.

Thanks for the info Bryan.

Tipsy
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Reepicheep
Posted on Tuesday, May 20, 2008 - 11:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I always imagined the cancel button was purely mechanical, it just "bumps" a lever from the signal position to a middle position.

The PIA's are non HID, and you want them to work with the flash to pass, right?

I can give you an easy schematic for a "relay delay". I think I posted it here in my HID install notes. Put that on the HID relay.

So when you hit the high beams or the flash to pass button, the non HID PIAAS come on immediately. Turn on the brights, the non HID PIAAS come on immediately, the HID kicks on 30 seconds later.

You could "borrow" the flash to pass button and unwire it from the existing functionality as well, so all it becomes is a positive trigger for some other switch.
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Tipsymcstagger
Posted on Tuesday, May 20, 2008 - 06:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Bill, the Piaa's are non HID and I want to be able to control them independently of the high beam. In other words, I don't want the Piaa's to always come on when the high beam comes on.

I'd like to be able to use some kind of Autoswitch setup for the Piaa's but I don't think it's wise to pulse the high beam circuit with an HID ballast. Also, if the high beam is illuminated, the pulse will not be sensed. So if you need to switch the Piaa's off in a hurry you'll need to first switch the high beam off to de-power that circuit.

Since I'll be installing an HID on the high beam, I won't really need (or want) to use the flash to pass switch. So if there were some way to have that switch positive pulse another source, then I could use the AS5P2 on that switch w/o energizing the high beam HID.

I don't think I'll need the delayed relay because I intend to power switch the HID ballast via the Euro light lead. It's my understanding that the Euro light remains powered during the starter cycle...as opposed to the factory low beam lead which is interrupted during the starter cycle.

Tipsy
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Darthane
Posted on Wednesday, May 21, 2008 - 08:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Tipsy,

You can use the FTP switch, it's just going to require that you dig into the harness a bit. I would venture to guess that downstream from the FTP and High beam switches, those wires are connected. Likely they are fed from the same 12V hot-in-run source as well.

If that's true (easily confirmed via your shop manual schematics), then all you'd really need to do is cut low side of the FTP circuit so that it is no longer connected to the actual high-beam circuit, and voila, you have a momentary contact high-side switched feed that you could use with the AS5P2 AutoSwitch thingamajigger.
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Tipsymcstagger
Posted on Wednesday, May 21, 2008 - 08:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Darthane...I'll take a closer look at the schematic. I'm packing the bike right now and headed up to MA.

I bought a few small switches (not as small as I would have liked) from Radio Shack yesterday and if all else fails, I'll see if there's enough room in the left hand control to drill a hole and mount the switch in the housing.

EDIT: I just took another look at the wiring schematics. They don't depict the FTP at all. I'm assuming this is because there is just a small jumper within the hand control which "steals" power from the low/high switch. Looking more and more likely that I'll have to have a separate switch for the Piaa's.

Tipsy



(Message edited by tipsymcstagger on May 21, 2008)
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Darthane
Posted on Wednesday, May 21, 2008 - 09:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

...it could still be a physical wire, but buried within the controls. It might be worth it to pop it open and have a look-see in the interests of keeping it clean.
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Tipsymcstagger
Posted on Wednesday, May 21, 2008 - 10:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

...it could still be a physical wire, but buried within the controls. It might be worth it to pop it open and have a look-see in the interests of keeping it clean.

Yeah...I'm going to open the LH housing one way or the other because I'm going to try to mount a switch in there if I can't make the Autoswitch work that way I'd like.

Tipsy
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