| Author | Message | ||
     Ezblast |
If you follow the manual for testing the regulator - which it says to check first if not charging fully - first you test to see if its grounded - yes it was, then you check with bike turned on that no current is coming through either pin - which would be called bleeding(their term - replace regulator) - since current is supposed to go out, not in and the current coming in would block leaving only a partial charging - my question is how does this bleeding occur - what causes the regulator to do something like that when its not supposed to? EZ | ||
| Buellistic |
you forgot ELECTRONIC VOM !!! | ||
| Ezblast |
I followed the procedure in the manual, that step would have been later to test the stator as well. EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
The BK2 wire off the regulator going through the frame by the red wire - each in their own protective black wire cover - Feeds into the harness going towards the front from the regulator - the red going to the 30 amp breaker by the battery that the battery hooks on to - both crossing in front of the battery before the shock, then slitting up.where/to what does it go to? EZ (Message edited by ezblast on April 22, 2008) | ||
| Malgu25 |
I bought a used 2002 Blast. It had 50 miles on it when I got it. First it would not start at all so got a new battery and cleaned the carb. Now it starts but I have to fiddle with the throttle. I have to pull the throttle back just a bit to get the engine started. However it will not hold idle. I have to keep up the throttle for a while for the bike to stay idle. It also backfires and I can feel the pressure hit inside the air box. If I ride the bike around and shut of the engine it will start up. However if I leave it shut off for more than 30 minutes it has trouble keeping idle. Ideas please. | ||
| Berkshire |
Sounds like the auto-enricher is not working properly. Judging by age & mileage, my first guess would be that the enricher is gummed up. What parts of the carb did you clean? Changing to the #45 low speed jet (27170-89) and uncapping and adjusting the idle mix screw and butterfly stop screw would probably help a little, and is cheap and easy, and is good to do anyway. But to REALLY fix it, assuming it's the enricher, you'd need to pull the carb off and disassemble & clean. I've never needed to remove my enricher from the carb, but it looks like you'd just remove the screw and semi-circular clamp, then pull it out and clean it and the hole it came out of. If it's gummed up, then probably other stuff is to, so I'd go on a carb taking apart & cleaning spree, but don't take apart the trottle linkage, butterfly, and float , and be careful not to bump the float in any direction! After all is shiny new, then make jetting changes, reassemble, start & warm up, make adjustments, go for longer ride to REALLY warm it up, then readjust. If it runs great, then all is good. If it still has trouble cold, then the enricher probably needs to be replaced, but 50 miles in 6 years points to gummy fuel IMO. I would be wary of the slide diaphram - being unused for long periods, it might tear more easily than usual. ps - while you're at it, you might as well drain the condensate & change the oil. You could also look at the timing, clutch adjustment, and primary adjustment, but with 50 miles all that should be fine. (Message edited by berkshire on April 24, 2008) | ||
| Gbaz |
May be a good idea to get a service manuel also if you dont have one. It should have the process to check the enricher. | ||
| Reuel |
If you don't want to tear everything apart, you can put some of that STP (or your preferred brand) engine cleaner/gas treatment into the gas and run it through. If that doesn't clear it up, then go tear things apart. | ||
| Ezblast |
Das Boot! More than likely - loose or a tear from just being old rubber - replace and enjoy. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
 Concur! My day is never complete unless I hear "Das Boot"! Check the boot first! | ||
| Naustin |
I was having some trouble with the safety switches and a dead starter button. Sometimes it would seem like it was the neutral switch, as shifting from neutral into gear and back again would sometimes energize the starter. Then other times it would seem like it was the side stand, because dropping the side stand or raising it would allow the starter to energize. Well, It was neither. The culprit was the clutch switch. Apparently the clutch perch is tweaked a little because of the new bars I have installed, and as a result, the switch plunger was not fully extending unless the clutch lever was clamped hard into the grip. It only seemed like shifting the bike, or monkeying with the stand was helping; what was really happening was that I was changing my grip on the clutch lever slightly without realizing it... I shaved 1/16th off the plastic plunger of the clutch switch, and bingo, problem solved... (Message edited by naustin on May 18, 2008) | ||
| Bthumper |
Does any one know the part # of the voltage regulator? Did all the test and that seems the be the problem. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Y0302.T | ||
| Bthumper |
Thanks got one order today! | ||
| Monteflow98 |
Hey guys, my turn signals quit working. Any ideas? I flip the switch and nothing lights up. Not the dash or the lights. I'm think it's the switch or the modual. Your thoughts? | ||
| Monteflow98 |
Ok, I just read a post that sounds like my problem. Sounds like I need a new relay. Does anyone have a part number? The shop by my house does not sell buell parts, because they are lame. At least that is what they tell me anyway. But when I give them part numbers, they have no problems. | ||
| Reuel |
Try shorting the power to signal connections with a turn signal on and see if the light lights up. Don't short anything to the ground pin! If you get light, it's the blinker relay. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Part # Y0621.MA If you want to really go trick install a Kissan Signal Minder. It plugs in place of the regular flasher and makes your turn signals self canceling. A little added wiring and all your signals will also be running lights. You will also have emergency flashers. You'll also have the ability to run LED lights. Instructions included, but it will set you back about $100. I was told at one Harley dealer that even with a Buell part number they couldnt/wouldnt get the parts! | ||
| Xgecko |
that's funny I walk into my local independent/unaffiliated Harley dealer with a part # and a week later I have my parts | ||
| Monteflow98 |
When you say "shorting" do you mean unplug the relay with the signal on and touch the wires to see if they light up? | ||
| Reuel |
Yup. Do it while the ignition is on and your turn signal is on to left or right. Make sure you don't short one to ground! Find the ground slot, and short the OTHER two. If you get light from the appropriate signal, it's the relay. If not, there are other issues. | ||
| Techdiverdown |
Here is the problem that has cropped up. A couple years ago I had the dealer install a race kit on my 2001 Blast. It was great and I had no issues for some time. Recently when the bike warms up it will sputter, backfire and die. Then maybe a minute later, runs fine. I replaced the plug, intake boot, etc. I took it to a mechanic and he suspects ignition module. Does this sound correct? If so, whats a good replacement part? Should I go stock? Thanks! | ||
| Ezblast |
Ignition - is the current one an SE? EZ | ||
| Techdiverdown |
Actually, I'm not sure. I had a race kit put on it, which included the exhaust and I believe a carb rejet and possibly a different cam. I think the ignition was changed out as well. I would guess it is not stock. I will call the mechanic and have him check. | ||
| Ezblast |
Finding another SE will be difficult due to EPA, however, they should still be out there for race applications - lol EZ | ||
| Bzbuell |
Turn signal problem - decided to eliminate the front/rear stalks by putting in some flush-mount LED's. I hooked up the rears with no prob (with the exception of the expected fast blinking with no resistors), but I'm getting nothing out of the front signals now, even if I hook up the stockers. All fuses look good. I don't see any abrasions on the wires. Ideas? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
LED's usually dont have the 'load' on the electrical system that regular 'bulb' turn signals have and the flasher relay usually needs that 'load' to work. The signal flasher relay wont work with many LED's. You usually need a load equalizer installed. Its possible you got away with just the rears, but not with front and rears. Its possible you burned out the flasher relay. I dont use LED's, (but Reuel, EZ, Wolfsoul and others do), so I dont have any practical experience with them. I'd contact Reuel if you dont get your answer here. | ||
| Bzbuell |
Right, I've installed LED's brake lights, etc. on cars before and have installed load resistors. Just haven't seen this particular problem before. Is there a separate relay for front & rear? The rear ones still blink, but I don't appear to be getting any juice to the fronts. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Well, if the rears still work, then its time to trace it through the wiring (I know, I'm stating the obvious). There is only one relay for front and rear and the wiring is fairly simple on the Blast. I dont know if there is some strange anomaly that might be peculiar to the Blast as why all 4 wont work now. I was really hoping Reuel might chime in since LED's seem to be his hobby. | ||
| Ezblast |
You'd have to put a resister to each LED light, or buy the flasher from American Sport Bike - I think your flasher is toast or on the way to toast. EZ |
