| Author | Message | ||
     Blackm2 |
Couple questions to y'all. I have to pull my rear cylinder head as it is leaking oil. What is the easy way to get the rear cylinder to TDC? and.... do I have to pull the carb/manifold off or can I just remove the bolts to the rear cylinder/manifold? Thanks. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Easiest way to get TDC is pull both spark plugs, put it in third gear or higher, and rotate the rear wheel to spin the engine. You can leave the manifold in place on the front head...but this is a chance to put new manifold/head gaskets in...I'd at least loosen it so you can make sure it's aligned properly on install. | ||
| Road_thing |
If you remove the head you'll be releasing the pressure on the cylinder base gasket. That means that, when you replace the head and torque everything back down, that old base gasket likely won't seal back up. As I understand it, the base gaskets need to be replaced anytime the heads come off. And as long as you've got the manifold loose at one end, you really ought to replace the seals on both ends--I'm assuming you're working on the 2001 M2 listed in your profile--if they're the original seals, it's time to replace them. They're cheap. rt | ||
| Blackm2 |
Yeah, the '01 M2. That is a bummer. Is that really a necessity to do the base gaskets? I am of the philosophy of "fix it when it's broke". I don't have a problem with the intake, I'll probably change that anyway, but that base gaskets further than I wanted to go. Here is the deal, I am leaving on a trip with it in a couple weeks to Texas. I figure I'm losing compression with that leak, although I can't tell. Didn't want any problems on the road though. So...do the base gaskets or no? Or, will it harm it just to do the head gasket. Worst scenario is I'll develop a leak later at the base and I'll have to do it all over again. What is the consensus? | ||
| Firemanjim |
Where exactly are you leaking oil from--a head will not usually be the source--rocker box or base gasket,yes. Be specific,and look carefully for source. | ||
| Blackm2 |
One fin below the exhaust port on the rear cylinder. | ||
| Kilroy |
If you un-torque the head bolts, you need to replace the base gasket. It WILL leak when you button everything back up. If you are that far along, it will only add another 30 minutes or so to the job to slip the cylinder off, replace the base gasket, and slip the cylinder back on. Time well spent, to avoid hiving to go through this entire procedure again, in the not too distant future, just to get to the base gasket that you were so close to the last time. Just follow the service manual and take your time, and do it right the first time. | ||
| Jos51700 |
"fix it when it's broke". I'm guessing you don't change oil very often....? +1 to the other posts, do it all, you're already there, and then you won't have to do it later. I would recommend lapping the base gasket surface until it's nice n' flat (call your local hd dealer to see if they have a lapping plate, most do and never use it. The charge should be minimal). | ||
| Blackm2 |
Thanks for all the input, I'll do the base gasket too. Jos, what is very often? This thing has 18,000 miles on it and I've never changed the oil. Buells are supposed to smoke like a diesel right? | ||
| Guell |
This thing has 18,000 miles on it and I've never changed the oil. Buells are supposed to smoke like a diesel right?  ughh, mines never smoked like a diesel, i hope your joking. I change my oil every 3-5k miles with synthetic. Maybe im just paranoid about it be aircooled. | ||
| Jos51700 |
"This thing has 18,000 miles on it and I've never changed the oil. Buells are supposed to smoke like a diesel right?" That's the funniest thing I've seen all week! I was just commenting that your statement was contradictory to preventative maintenance, and I had to wonder how far you go with your philosophy. I'd say that intake seals and base gaskets on these qualify for preventative maintenance. | ||
| Blackm2 |
Ok guys. Completed the job late last night. Did everything to the book. Started up this morning and there is a HILACIOUS high pitch whistle coming from that cylinder head and I can feel it blowing out the side and see silver head gasket material blowing on to my hand. I did not run it longer than 30 seconds cumulatively so I could determine where the whistle was coming from. Question is: Would re-torqueing solve this, or do I take it all the way down to the cylinder head and put another gasket in there. I put a new base gasket in.  (Message edited by blackm2 on April 06, 2008) | ||
| Jos51700 |
It's done for. The base gasket should be OK. I would check and see if all studs are seated all the way. What headbolt torque method did you use? | ||
| Blackm2 |
The one in the service manual, where you torque low up to 14 or so, sequentially, then back them off, then torque again, then the quarter turn. Is there a better way? | ||
| Blackm2 |
Ok, here is the update. New CH gasket, buttoned it back up the same way, except this time I left the push rod tubes out. Started up good with no steam engine whistle. However putting my hand over the area where it blew out earlier, I could still feel air spitting out, until it got warm. BTW, it blew on the left side, same side where the o-rings for the dowels are. I know metal expands but is everything settling or should I re-torque this in a week or so? Should I still be concerned? | ||
| Jos51700 |
It should not be spitting any air, at any temp. Ever. With the torque-to-yield (the 90 degree method. You said quarter-turn, same deal), you can't really re-torque, as there is no torque "value". There is something causing this issue, and it will not just go away. Maybe the o-ring isn't centered in the headgasket hole? If that were the case, it would keep the gasket from laying flat. It's possible you have gasket-surface warpage, as well. There is SOME OTHER ISSUE at work here, causing both the original issue, and the new one. Maybe some pics on re-disassembly? | ||
| Blackm2 |
I let it cool, started up again, and can't get it to reproduce that, so I'm happy. I rode it around for about a half hour, took it easy at first and eventually let it rip. Rides like a champ. We'll see how does in a month! Thanks for all the help. | ||
| Ratbuell |
The only other thing I would look at if the whistle comes back, is whether your gasket surfaces (top of cylinder, bottom of head) are flat. If there's a wavy section, you'll need to have it decked at a machine shop. | ||
| Jos51700 |
My crystal ball sees this issue returning, but hey, if not, congratulations! | ||
| Blackm2 |
Is that your left ball or right ball Jos? The original oil leak was rear of the cylinder, and had been there for some time. I think this time was partly a faulty gasket in nature, perhaps poor torqueing. This time I used a different(better) torque wrench until I torqued 90 degrees. Here is a pic of the one that made her whistle. The air puffs were transient and lasted seconds and I can't get it to duplicate, so as long as it lasts awhile. I'll be off to Texas next week so that will be the test! Thanks for all the input all and polish up that crystal ball Jos! | ||
| Blackm2 |
Badweather must fix this picture upload, hopefully this works.  Blew away some of the metal too! | ||
| Jos51700 |
I said crystal, not brass  | ||
| Dark_horse |
Hey Guys, I have a rear base gasket leaking a small amount of oil,My S3t has 52000 miles on it so as long as I have to pull the rear down the rear I would do the front also and replace all of the top end gaskets, also I thought I would re ring and ball hon the barrels, can you guys think of anything else I should do now. I run this guy very hard and always want it spot on Brion G  (Message edited by dark_horse on April 08, 2008) | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
If you're going to take the top end right off, I would suggest popping off the cam cover and replacing the cam drive pinion with that new bronze-colored one. | ||
| Dark_horse |
good idea is the new one a buell part or aftermarket? | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
It's a Buell part. http://buell.com/en_us/gear/accessories/Product.as p?Menu_ID=2&ProductLineID=6&CategoryID=1&ProductID =3138 | ||
| Cyclonemduece |
dont forget the gasket for the pump | ||
| Classicbuells |
When you pull the camshaft case off, you do not need to touch the pump in order to change to the bronze drive drive gear. You undo one nut and the gear slips right off. You DO need to replace an oil seal though from memory. HTH. |
