| Author |
Message |
    
Ccryder
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 26, 2008 - 08:13 am: | 
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Z:
Are you going to use a delay timer on the low beams? I have always heard that HIDs don't like to get fired up and then shut quickly down and, started again. This is the scenario that is played out when you turn on the key, wait for the CEL to go out and, hit the starter.
I have a DEI 528T, time delay relay. SOmeone here had poster their own "bread board" version a while back on the XB side. You can pick these up for $8-$20 ea.
Inquiring minds want to know.
Later
Neil S. |
Nickcaro
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 26, 2008 - 08:43 am: |
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I purchased two DEI 528 units and I know this may sound funny.... I just could not (A) figure out how to wire them in (B) find a place to stash them as the HID components took all the space I had available....
I would love to see someone here install them and maybe I can learn a trick or two. |
Spectrum
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 26, 2008 - 09:16 am: |
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I have always heard that HIDs don't like to get fired up and then shut quickly down and, started again.
Neil, you are correct! HID's are used in most of the high-end models of scuba dive lights. The 2 HID dive lights I have both came with a manufacturer warning stickers that say "To prevent premature bulb failure, wait at least 10 seconds after turning the lamp on or off".
Another interesting thing I've learned from diving with HID lights. If the HID starts flickering, your battery will go dead withing in a few minutes. In other words if the HID starts flickering, your in a low voltage situation. |
Nickcaro
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 26, 2008 - 09:35 am: |
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its not the bulbs, its the ballast that takes a hit. It has to generate allot of power to ignite the bulb. You wont replicate the flickering you see with your diving lights on the motorcycle. The engine will die before the lights. |
Ccryder
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 26, 2008 - 10:00 am: |
|
Nick:
You are correct, it's the ballasts that don't like the "restarts". When HIDs flicker they are sucking max current to excite the gas to glow.
I should have a wiring diagram of the 528T in the next week, or so. 1st off I need to enlarge the diagram I have so I don't have to use a magnifying glass, sheesh!!
Time2Work
Neil S. |
Baggermike
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 26, 2008 - 10:10 am: |
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Hey guys I just installed digital hids and they start up real fast compared to regular hids,
the other bennafits I have read besides allot faster start up is even color so all four bulbs on my bike look the same,
15% brighter,
allot smaller boxes to install,
and the most light for 35 watts. |
Spectrum
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 26, 2008 - 11:43 am: |
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Well I'll take you word it's bad for the ballast, but I know for a fact it will blow the bulb very easily. I've never seen a ballast go bad on a dive light. I've seen brand new bulbs die with two or three uses if the light were turned on and off too quickly.
By the way the bulbs are quite expensive just by themselves. $50 to $75. |
Nickcaro
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 26, 2008 - 11:53 am: |
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you're dive lights may have integrated ballasts on the back of the bulb..... some OEM installs on cars are like this. IN that case the bulb and the ballast are one and most both be replaced...
 |
Baggermike
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 26, 2008 - 11:54 am: |
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Spectrum I emailed star rotors about new bulbs and was told 16 dollars a bulb.
also they are on sale now and I got two digital kits of two bulbs a kit four total for the price of 240.00 |
Spectrum
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 26, 2008 - 12:01 pm: |
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Nick you maybe right. This might also explain the expensive price. |
Xb9
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 26, 2008 - 12:45 pm: |
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DEI 528T wiring:
cut the blue loop wire on the DEI 528T
Red: Pos Battery
Black: Ground
Black / White strip: Trigger wire to ignition. I used the license plate light connector for trigger wire-ignition and ground)
You have to run the orange and yellow wires up to the steering head area through the frame. I mounted the DEI 528T with velcro to the side of the fuse box cover.
Cut the blue wire (low beam headlight feed) on the 1125r before it goes into the headlight subassembly connector under the fairing.
Orange: Connect to Headlight wire (1125r-Blue) that you just cut going TO the headlight subassembly connector (headlights).
Yellow: Connect to the main harness side of the other end of the blue wire you just cut harness).
Brown: not used.
Works great. Do not try to splice into the blue wire anywhere else in the main harness- it will not work properly. The blue wire feeds through the starter relay and then the left side headlight controls before it feeds the headlight subassembly connector. You don't want to delay the feed to those components - just the low beam lights. |
Ccryder
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 26, 2008 - 02:08 pm: |
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David:
Thanks for the details. I do have one question. I thought you would use brown wire (normally open contacts) going to the "headlight" (ballast power) instead of the orange wire (normally closed contacts). My way of thinking (more than once it has been flawed) was that you would want to attach the power to the headlight (ballast) through the normally open contacts.
After turning on the ignition, you would trigger the timer to start (black/White wire) it's count down. After the preselected delay, the timing circuit would energize the relay coil and make the normally open contacts close, thus supplying power to the headlights after starting the bike. This would close the contacts between the Yellow and Brown wires to power the "headlight".
So what am I missing? Please help me to understand.
TIA
Neil S. |
Andella
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 26, 2008 - 04:36 pm: |
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Neil... you are correct. From that diagram it appears that you would want to use the normally open contacts.
Matt
(Message edited by andella on March 26, 2008) |
Zac4mac
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 26, 2008 - 06:11 pm: |
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Very cool, thanks all.
Just ordered a relay w/ next day delivery.
I'll wait to do it all up till then.
Zack |
Xb9
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 26, 2008 - 07:09 pm: |
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Neil,
I got my info here:
http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.as p?TID=101925&KW=DEI+528T
All I know is it works using the orange (normally closed) wire; didn't try the brown (normally open) wire.
Isn't the headlight circuit 'normally closed'? I interpret as the state you want the circuit after the timer delay.
For some other purpose you may want the circuit closed (on) until the end of the delay then it goes open (off). This would be the reverse. |
Nickcaro
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 26, 2008 - 08:13 pm: |
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here is the info that I used.
http: hayabusa forum
Three times I started from scratch following his steps and all three times the lights would just come on immediately. Finally just gave up and used the excuse of not finding room for them to make myself feel better. |
Xb9
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 26, 2008 - 08:31 pm: |
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Nick, I can't believe it worked for that guy on the Hayabusa forum the way he wired it! That's a trip! It doesn't have to be that complicated. |
Ccryder
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 26, 2008 - 11:26 pm: |
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Yep, now I'm TOTALLY confused! Not too unusual for me and electrical stuff.
From all my other dealings with relays, normally closed means just that. In the home, non-energized state, the normally closed contacts have continuity across terminals 87A and 30.
I guess I'll just have to try out this little devil myself and see. XB9, I'm not doubting you, just doubting what I have seen/ experienced before. This will have to wait until the weekend after next.
This weekend is my time to see my Mom. Not much else is more important. Bikes can wait, my 86 yo Mom can't, these times are all too few.
Thanks to all that have chimed in.
Time4Sleep
Neil |
