| Author | Message | ||
     Sub65chris |
I was having problems with my throtle being stiff to the point where it would not retun to closed when let go. - I purchased a new grip sleve, and open and close cables. -installed, or tried to install the cables were very tight causin the same problem as before - many of you have changed bars and switches etc. how hard is it to reassemble the throtle side switch assembly. what am I missing? I had the service maual right next to the bike and it was almost no help. any sugestions? | ||
| Badlionsfan |
have you done any mods to the bars/forks? when did this start? | ||
| Sub65chris |
I changed the levers about a year ago. I checked the throtle body the cam snaps back to closed like it should, I just cant figure it out where the damn thing is getting all the friction from. -Is there a way to make the cables looser so when Im hooking them up they are not so tight? - again I feel really retarted this should be pretty simple. | ||
| Xl1200r |
Does the throttle have any play in it at all? If the open and close cables are fighting each other too much they'll cause friction like you're describing. In other words, when the throttle is closed, neither cable should be pulling anything. Maybe both of yours are pulling in opposite directions? | ||
| Midknyte |
I created a sticky throttle situation for myself when I got my bar ends. Started it once with the throttle stuck open - scared the crap out of me.  * solution - backed the bar end out a bit and re-tightend... | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Never been "tarted". I couldn't tell you whether you have been "re-tarted" or not.  | ||
| Gentleman_jon |
Don't feel bad, lots of brothers, myself included, have had this problem. Usually there are one of two causes. 1. One or both of the throttle cables have been kinked or crushed. This can happen if the bike has been in a crash or even it it has just fallen over. Run your fingers along both throttle cables to see if you can find a problem. If there are any spots where the cable isn't perfectly round, it must be replaced. Easy job. 2. Reassembling the throttle cables on the drum that rotates them is just plain tricky. Try loosening the black plastic ferrules right where the cables start on the throttle to give your self some slack, and then carefully re-insert the cables. When you get it right, you will know right away. Slow and easy it the trick here. Don't forget to re tighten the ferrules to eliminate all but the smallest amount of slack. 3. While you are messing with the throttle, it is a very good idea to lubricate the cables. I do it by just dripping about 20 drops of gun oil into the end of the cable when it is disconnected from the throttle. There are dedicated pressure systems which are even better. I know this sounds vague, but that is the best instructions I have received from guys who are experts. PS: You misspelled retarded, as the fat man has so indelicately indicated.  | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Indelicate? Moi'? | ||
| No_rice |
Matt, i have some different stuff on the way for you. when you swing in friday it should be here and we will figure it out. Look at it this way, if you did end up with the wrong stuff i am going to owe you one  | ||
| Spatten1 |
Looks like you changed your flyscreen. The throttle cables do an odd "S" bend behind the fly screen, which I changed to an "L" bend on mine to make it straighter. Either way, look behind the flyscreen for kinking or binding. | ||
| Spatten1 |
Your not 'tarted, your special. | ||
| Kowpow225 |
There is a little 'nub' on the killswitch assembly that goes into a hole on the backside of the bar. If this has slid in any way and doesn't line up with the hole it tweaks the whole assembly and won't snap shut. Another easy thing to check for. Spatten, SPECIAL ED! | ||
| Ironhead1977 |
Racing a honda is like being in the special olympics, you may win the race but you are still tarted. | ||
| Brumbear |
I had a hard time with the throttle barrel and I found I had to tighten them evenly and the problem fixed itself. Is the little yellow bus really that bumpy? | ||
| Jos51700 |
The obvious starting point: free play. XL1200R called it. If your cables lack freeplay, they won't snap back. You should have a bit of fore n' aft movement in the throttle sleeve, without instilling any motion at the throttle body. This should be possible at all handlebar positions as well. When you pull the throttle all the way open, you should hear a "click" from the throttle body as it hits the stop. If not, adjust the "front" cable (as it sits installed, it's in the picture) out until you hear it hit the stop when the throttle is opened all the way. This usually doesn't need adjustment. Then, set the slack. Turn the rear cable adjuster all the way in (No threads showing). Turn your bars to find the tightest point, and aim for a little slack there. The adjuster is in the cable up at the switch housing. Moving it out too much will remove all freeplay, making cable operation sticky, and installation tricky. There is an updated cable/harness guide (look on the left side of the steering head, behind the left fork) that helps keep the cables from getting kinky. It's black plastic.   | ||
| Borrowedbike |
Jos nailed it... This needs to be in the KV, it crops up once or twice a year... | ||
| Brianb |
Are the cables free with throttle sleeve disconnected? Is the throttle sleeve free with cables disconnected? If both are yes, then it's probably a rigging issue. Listen to XL1200R. | ||
| Sub65chris |
Ok thanks guys. both cables seemed short when I put them in. No-rice has ordered me different part numbers to try that I will print thisthread off and keep it near the bike when the new parts come in . Again thanks alot , much foodfor thought. I dont spell good sorry. | ||
| Jos51700 |
Are you just ordering random cables? I'm not sure how you and N0-rice are coming up with numbers unless you're swapping handlebars and stuff. If you put them in and they seem short, do you mean the inner "goes in 'n out" cable seems short, or the outer housing? If the outer housing seems short, make sure it's seated in the little bracket that they live in on the throttle body. Shove them down in there good n' tight. | ||
| Jos51700 |
Also, when you reassemble at the switch housing, the rearward cable (without the funky curved cable guide) has a flat spot on it. That flatspot faces the front cable. I usually hook the rear cable into the throttle sleeve, and then fit it into the switch housing making sure the inner cable is in it guide slot. Then I hook the front cable on the sleeve, and fit it into the switch housing. Then the two switch housing halves go together. I'm OCD. I also drop lube into the cable guide slots.... | ||
| No_rice |
it appears on my end as he may have been given the wrong cables(firebolt ones). i am scratching my head as to how since he also got a clutch cable and some other things, but the clutch was for a lightning. not sure if i got interupted while looking up his parts and then came back and opened up the firebolt book accidentaly to find throttle cables or what. it confuses the hell out of me, but i will take the blame for it as i do believe it is my fault somehow, lol. all the other guy did was hand him the parts since they were picked up on my day off. i make mistakes too (well there's always a first anyway ) | ||
| Reepicheep |
I got burnt trusting a Cincy dealer to give me a part number. I told them it was for a XB9SX, and they gave me a part number for the "R" bikes. I don't have the parts manual, so I had to trust them. The R cables are about an inch short, and look like they would work if you get the routing right, but never quite will. So that is something to double check... Its a "three hand" job, but about the 50th time you try it, you get pretty good at it.  Good to know Jos! Anybody know when the part was changed? | ||
| Sub65chris |
I am just happy so many differnt thing to look for have come up. this post should definatly go to the knowledge vault. I searched it and nothing with the cables came up for me.  |
