| Author | Message | ||
     Dratner |
Pardon my ignorance but what is there to set? I thought this was a solid state kinda deal? Does it have something to do with the timing? -Dan | ||
| Pilk |
NOT a Buell question. Anyone help me, Please. Mikuni BST34 carb on a TTR225, no gas to the engine, gas to the carb, gas out the drain, none through the carb, I dont have a manual for the thing but would like some minor help. Engine runs with gas squirted with a syringe into airbox. Pilk | ||
| Blake |
Swapping your CV carb for DDFI? WHY? The Buell DDFI is made to run a 101HP Buell engine. It likely won't work very well on a Sportster unless it is similarly endowed performance wise. | ||
| Philip |
pilk, check the main jet, see if it is clogged. also check that the needle is lifting with the slide, could have come off of the clip. | ||
| Eastexsteve |
Thanks, Philip. In response to the message below: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show.cgi?tpc=3842&post=171042#POST 171042 | ||
| Eastexsteve |
Pilk, Make sure you slow jet and main jet are not plugged up. Ditto for the slide needle as Philip suggested. | ||
| Eastexsteve |
Blake, I have a sneaky suspicion that I might be losing some carb vaccuum by way of my needle shims. Like everybody else, I used some cheap washers to shim my needle. However, if you look at how the needle itself sits against the bottom of the slide, and also how the plastic spring retainer sits over the needle and against the bottom of the slide, it all seems to fit rather snugly which wouldn't allow much air to be drawn up into the vaccuum/diaphram chamber. After looking closely at those cheap washers I used to shim the needle, they don't look very flat, or finished very well. This may be letting more air than is allowable up through the needle opening into the slide. Once I know the dimensions of the needle, I can have my brother machine me a one-piece needle shim out of teflon or aluminum that would fit very well between the top of the needle and the slide, and fit snugly around the needle. | ||
| Blake |
Steve, I think you may be looking for problems that aren't really there. Is the bike running lean? Both sides of the needle (inside slide and venturi side outside of slide) are in a vacuum. You could remove the needle entirely and if the engine could be made to run, the slide would still actuate. | ||
| Eastexsteve |
Blake, The bike runs OK. I just assumed that because the vaccuum is caused by air rushing passed the orfice on the back/bottom side of the slide, that didn't necessarily mean that the needle opening performed the same function since it is in a different location. However, if I have nothing to worry about, then so be it. However, I might go the route of the teflon or plastic spacers since they would be lighter than the brass ones. | ||
| Ocbueller |
Dan, Others could probably explain it better, but certain values have to be set at the ecm by a scanalyzer tool with a "Buell Only" memory cartridge. Throttle position sensor,timing etc.. Once set it should not need messing with unless you disturb any settings. Like Blake said, not much gain to be had unless your Sportster is well modified. SteveH | ||
| Pilk |
Thanks Guys, I just needed some prodding to take the thing apart, it isn't as easy as a Buell. I kinda knew what was the problem but really wanted to believe there was some majic screw that I was overlooking. Anyhow I took it apart today and cleaned the bejesus out of it, works as new now. Carbs are really not my thing, I can work on them I just dont like it. Hence X-1 Pilk | ||
| Blake |
SteveH, The ONLY things on a DDFI Buell settable via your shop's scanalyzer are TPS zero and AFV. Timing or any other setting is not adjustable via scanalyzer, and even the AFV will be self-adjusted automatically as the ECM learns the general state of carburetion of the bike. edited by blake on June 03, 2003 | ||
| Steveford |
Aside from up at the throttle itself, it doesn't appear as if there's an external idle speed adjusting cable on the 2002 X1W. There might be one but I can't find it either on the bike, in the owner's manual or in the shop manual. The idle speed on my bike is way too high and I'd rather not pull the air goiter until it's ready for the race kit. If I do have to pull off the right hand Richard Nixon jowl, I'd just as soon fit an external cable like the Firebolt has. Is this possible? Thanks in advance. | ||
| Buelliedan |
Steve, Your X1 should have an idle adjustment cable on the left side of the bike probably hidden by the fuel filter. A black plastic star, sorta shaped thing. | ||
| Buelliedan |
Now for my question. I just put a jet kit in my wifes Blast. 170/45 set-up and shimmed needle with one thin washer. What is a good baseline setting for the air fuel metering acrew? It seems like I have a huge range. Bike runs well whether I have it 2 turns out or 4 turns out  | ||
| Sarodude |
Dan- I got this nifty thumb adjustable widget from Creative Cycle Products. No magic, but it makes turning that damned adjuster easier. The benefit for me was that I can easily tune for max idle RPM with that thing. It's what showed me that my oddball Blast setup (Dial a Jet additional fuel circuit) needed a 48 idle instead of the stock 42 or the common 45. The DaJ requires that I use a significantly leaner than stock main. I THINK that the main has some tiny influence down at idle. That's the only way I can explain why my setup needs the richer pilot. Anyway... -Saro | ||
| Eastexsteve |
Blake, (This is a post I duplicated on the electronics and ignition forum) This is an update on my earlier post regarding using one-piece spacers to shim the carb needles in the M2 as opposed to 2 or more small washers. I posted a few messages back that I would sometimes get tach fluctuation and what felt like a mild stumble between 3k and 4k ever since I did exhaust and intake mods. I ended up going to about .080 worth of washers under the needle. It sounds like this would be too many, but this is where it ran the best. I am close to sea level. However, I still had the intermittent mild hesitation and tach fluctuation. Last week, I changed out the .080 stack of washers for a single aluminum spacer .080 in thickness that fit snugly around the needle and was the same OD as the top of the needle. The result was a sputtering too rich condition from about 3k to 4k at WOT. I started backing down on the thickness of the spacer in .020 increments until it got too lean at .020. I settled on a .040 thickness on the spacer and it seems to be perfect. Smooth good pull to 3.7k and then it really starts to take off. No more tach fluctuation either. Te only thing I can figure is that the stack of four washers that were rather roughly finished and wallowed around on the needle was allowing too much air to be sucked up around the needle where the needle sits in the hole in the bottom of the slide. It's also possible that the washers were not allowing the needle to be completely perpendicular to the hole. Whatever it was, it's fixed now! | ||
| Ara |
Anybody have any experience with the Kuryakyn "Turbulator"? Good or bad? | ||
| Aesquire |
Ara, no, but if you put cow magnets on your fuel line, you can erase any floppies suspended in the gas. hold it, my sarcasm meter just tripped, sorry. I suspect that you would just have a small reduction in power, due to restriction in the intake. I have seen screens & bent sheet metal "turbulance" makers for years, with some wild claims. None have worked, all have cost a little power. Most were supposed to improve mileage, and when people pay attention to driving for economy, they get better economy! Spend the $19 on gas, you will enjoy it more. | ||
| Ara |
Aesquire, I share your skepticism! I was just wondering if anybody had tried it and what results they might have had. Would like to see before/after dyno runs on this kind of nonsense. | ||
| Sporticus |
Do all years of the X1 have fuel injection? If not, when did FI debut? I have an unnatural disdain for FI and would to avoid it at all costs. I'm buying a new(ish) bike later this summer and getting my homework done right now. | ||
| Kahuna |
nope, all X1's 99' and on are fuellies. your only choices are up to year 98' S3 (or older S2), S1 or any year M2. edited by kahuna on July 03, 2003 | ||
| Kahuna |
blake that's what i said!  dont you love that edit feature! | ||
| Blake |
Yeah, the delete feature is great too. ![:]](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/clipart/proud.gif) | ||
| Sporticus |
I realize a lot of is is personal preference, but I'm looking for some objective opinions. I had my heart set on a a 1998 or earlier (carb'd) S3 as I can service a carb with common hand tools. I found a 1999 S3 in great shape at a H-D dealer for $5,995 and I'm tempted. Any warnings about FI? Do the pros outweigh the cons? Do I need to replace a sensor or two on a regular basis? How good a price is this for a cosmetically perfect bike with approx. 15K miles? That's it for questions, I think... | ||
| Kodas |
I own a 99 S3. Great bike. An absolute riot to ride. Check the S3 history at a HD/Buell Dealership make sure all the recall items have been serviced, there's lots. This will also give some small indication how well the bike's been treated. The bike gets a 45 mpg highway even when driven hard, around 40 in town. I personally think the fuel injection (FI) very good. Starts and idles from cold perfectly. A ton (101hp) of power and well mapped except for a rough spot @ 3,000 rpm. This is because I have a Vance & Hines sport exhaust. Adding a PowerCommander to mix would fix that small issue. That's the one 'limitation' too, if you modify the bike there's a good probability you'll need to change the ECM to a racing version or buy a PowerCommander like device that allows you to adjust for the changes. If you read my bike's history (click on my user name) you'll see the bikes had some issues. The notable ones are electronic in nature. So make sure you find a certified Buell mechanic, many HD guys don't understand the Digital Dynamic Fuel Injection (DDFI) system. Make sure the technician really is familiar and has this type experience or you'll end up wasting money & time like I did at first (bike was in the HD shop for five weeks for a simple bad connect to the fuel pump). This forum (plug alert) has excellent and knowledgeable people that have helped me a great deal. From what I gather 99% that goes wrong with the S3 doesn't require a Scanalyzer (diagnostic computer) to troubleshoot and fix. The ECM is capable of showing trouble/fault codes without any special tools. So if you're handy buy a 99 S3 Service Manual and have at it. Most faults have been caused by corrosion on the connectors. I've been told the wiring harness is the 'weak' spot on pre-2001 bikes. Cleaning usually solves most of the problems. Let's add it up @ 12,000 miles I've had to: Fuel Pump replacement (didn't need it honest! turned out to be a bad connection). Cost priceless when the 'fix'failed the very next day...$275.00 for labor I couldn't get refunded. Haven't gone to a dealer for problems (except for normal service intervals) since. Replace Ignition switch (bought whole matching set) approx $100.00 Speedo Sensor $51.00 Bank Angle Sensor $42.00 This forum helped on the problem. Tanx again! So far $193.00 in parts over normal operating costs (not including normal dealer services, my labor, etc.) Would I buy it again? Tough question with the Firebolt out... | ||
| Jayzen |
Does anyone know what it means when you are getting your trouble codes and all you get is 11 continuous flashes then a 2 second pause then 11 continuous flashes again (keeps on repeating) | ||
| 99x1 |
The code transmission is preceded by 6 rapid flashes (3 per second), then a 2 second pause, then the first code digit (flashing at ~1 per second), followed by a 2 second pause, then the second code digit flashes (~ 1 per second), then a 2 second pause, then the intermission (6 rapid flashes) is sent again (start of the repeat). So.... you are seeing the intermission and have no code? Or you are seeing 56 and missing the center pause? | ||
| Jayzen |
Well the flashes are almost so fast that I cannot count them but after asking 5 people...we all come to the conclusion that their are 11. There are no pauses except between the 11. | ||
| 99x1 |
Just tried mine, flashes 11 times fairly fast, then a pause, flashes 11 times, pauses,... I have no engine light problems, and the bike runs well - so I guess this is normal for yellow '99 X1s. |
