| Author | Message | ||
     Milesdt |
I was putting my seat back on after replacing my plugs and I ran into a bit of a problem. When I was screwing in one of the screws that holds the back of the seat down, it got hard to screw in. So when I tried to back it out and see what was up, the screw is now stuck and the receptacle spins in the frame... Does anyone know how I can get that out and fix the receptacle or get a new one? | ||
| Sub65chris |
try using a flat head screwdriver to push against the recepticle while turning the screw. be carefull! If that does not work you may need to drill the screw out to replace the recepticle. On the helicopters i used to work on this was a common problem and the screwdriver method usualy works.are are you near the airstation? | ||
| Milesdt |
Yeah I work on helicopters too and I live in the barracks on the airstation. But I am an avionics guy so this whole "airframes" thing isn't exactly my cup of tea. I did try the screwdriver trick but I need someone to hold the seat flap up while I turn the wrench so I will try that later. | ||
| Punkid8888 |
If all else fails you could drill the head off the screw, then replace it. kind of last resort | ||
| Mesafirebolt |
With a sharp punch, indent the area around the receptacle, its called "Staking" I have done it many times in the past with bearings bushings and such, also on my 05 XB12r. Once you get the screw back out, run a tap down it very carefully to make sure the threads didn't get crossed. then screw it back down, not too tight but use locktight blue, it wont back out but will come out when you need it to. (22 Year Aircraft Mechanic, turned engineer) | ||
| Saintly |
I had the same problem on my firebolt. The small brass colored inserts are a loose crush fit onto the subframe. They're soft too, so the knurl that is supposed to hold them from spinning gives up pretty easy. Once they start spinning, they're toast. I had to cut the head of the bolt to remove the seat. Then I tapped the insert down into the subframe. The inserts are much bigger in diameter than the hole in the subframe, so it will never come back out once it's been crushed by the factory. So to prevent rattling, I pumped silicone down into the hole and positioned the insert into it's eternal silicone grave. Next, I went to Lowes home improvement(hardware dept.) and bought these 1/4" coarse thread steel inserts that have a nice large external shoulder.  I drilled 2 small 1/8" holes at the perimeter of the flange & into the subframe, then secured it with two 1/8" flat-head rivets so it will never spin again. Furthermore, I threw out the torx bolts and replaced them with 1/4" threaded studs. The studs have tiny holes drilled thru them cross-sectionally. I use small hitch pins to secure the seat down onto the studs.  Now seat removal is a 5-10 second proceedure rather than a 3-4 minute ordeal. (Message edited by saintly on February 14, 2008) | ||
| Sub65chris |
Saintly - nice fix! | ||
| Saintly |
Here's the inserts along with the bag with brand and part # as found in lowes.   | ||
| Milesdt |
Wow, thats an awesome fix saintly! I will definitely do this as soon as i get a chance, thanks! | ||
| Mesafirebolt |
Awsome repair/mod! I'll be doing it this weekend! Thats why I love this forum... | ||
| Pwnzor |
I've been riding around with no bolts in my seat for the last five years. I'm going to install that mod this weekend. Excellent, thanks for sharing. | ||
| Ccryder |
IIRC correctly the OEM ones are a glorified rivet. You use a tool that looks and operates like a "POP Rivet" gun. If you don't squeeze hard enough they don't clamp properly. Sometimes the threaded portion does not keep square as it should. We use these all the time on sheet metal and structural tube. They work great if, if you have the right reach rivet for the material you are using. McMaster Carr has them.   Neil S. | ||
| Milesdt |
I have two questions saintly: 1, what type of silicone did you use for the receptacles? and 2, did you get the 1/4" studs at lowes? Thanks! | ||
| Saintly |
1. automotive black rtv, but I think anything would work. 2. Yes, studs & hitch pins too. (at lowes) | ||
| Birdy |
Most good body shops can pop a riv-nut in for you and it shouldn't cost a ton. We use them at work all the time and if they are set right them do not come out. | ||
| No_rice |
so your butt doesnt receive the seat correctly? is it to big for the seat? oh, i miss understood...  | ||
| Starter |
Saintly, you might want to shave a little plastic from the bottom of your seat so it doesn't wear through the positive battery lead. | ||
| Sgthigg |
You work on Rotary wing birds at new river? I am an Avi guy also, I was there in action jackson-ville from 2000-2004. but now I am in Iwakuni. Semper Fi! | ||
| Milesdt |
Yeah I work avionics on hueys and cobras with hml/a-167. Semper Fi! | ||
| Sub65chris |
Go to airframes and tell them what you need, they have all teh nececcary parts to help. |
