Author |
Message |
Ssavelan
| Posted on Saturday, January 26, 2008 - 12:29 pm: |
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The exhaust pipe, coming directly out of the engine (S3T 1998) is red hot at night I just noticed - especially with the choke out while letting it heat up (been riding at 36 degrees lately). Is this normal? After a 12 mile ride it is not as red but still a glowing ember. Perhaps I am running it a little rich with the idle-adjuster, but it is a bit cold - it idles at close to 2k rpm when the engine is warm. I was a little worried that it might melt the guard. |
Ssavelan
| Posted on Saturday, January 26, 2008 - 12:39 pm: |
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http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/185315.html I figured out where to search the board... okay, it looks like there is a lot of info on this thread pertinent to my 'issue' looks like it could be normal. I would still appreciate any input. I am new to Buell and I love my 1998 Thunderbolt. Just want to give it the best care and use the best practices that I can. What is the normal idle rpm? What should I turn the idle adjuster to? Any pointers for getting the best performance and reliability out of my 1203? Thanks |
Aesquire
| Posted on Saturday, January 26, 2008 - 06:03 pm: |
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1100 rpm idle. ( yeah, it sounds like a Sportster on ritalin, it's supposed to. ) Synthetic oil, with rationally frequent changes, ( 3-5000 miles ) including filter. ( Dyna filters are larger/longer and hold a bit more oil ) http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/3607.html?1201357611 check for updates & fixes/recalls. On a 98, I think primary chain tensioner, ( the newer model is thicker/stronger, replace when changing primary/tranny oil ) rocker box gaskets, ( new ones metal, replace when leaks ), & I think a shock issue. ( depending on serial # in '98 I think ) Let it warm up before cranking hard on it, a few miles at 3000 rpm or so is fine. Don't do Monster Wheelies, Stoppies unless you can let it down smoothly, It is possible, but very rare to break the cases with a severe wheel slam. Normal replacements of brakes/fluids etc. Drive belt should be looser than H-D mechanics like. ( though Buell trained mechanics should know better ) Don't let "I know everything about Harley's" mechanics work on your bike. It's not a Hog. It's a wild boar and puts out nearly twice the power of a "regular Harley". Lot's of stuff is different. That's just my opinion. I could be wrong. Post a pic soon on your profile. Enjoy. |
Bad_karma
| Posted on Sunday, January 27, 2008 - 01:17 am: |
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Skylar Flush your brakes every year. If you have the hard bags with the original mounting hardware adjust them properly. If your front brake disc is the six button style check the rotational play and replace when out of spec. Adjust your suspension and keep an eye on the rear shock. When it leaks if it hasn't already upgrade to a works or penske. If it spits, spudders or is not smooth with power check the intake manifold seals. What Aesquire says. Make sure you have the upgraded swing arm isolators. Inspect your front engine mount routinely. Battery tender is a must. Avoid short rides. Check with you local dealer for recalls on your S3. Annually inspect the throttle cables for damage cable at the carb end. Not all but most. Enjoy Joe |
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