| Author | Message | ||
     Jdugger |
Anyone have the documented procedure for this? | ||
| Unibear12r |
The first to wear out a rear tire?  | ||
| Doerman |
I've worn out and replace both front and rear. Jdugger.. look for PM in a bit. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
What is everyone using for a rear stand? Asbjorn, did you go with the Corsa III again? What mileage did you get from the factory rubber? | ||
| Doerman |
I went with the Stradas this time. I got 2400 out of the rear and 3000 out of the front on the Diablos. I am pleased with the Stradas so far. Tires are always good on the first 2/3 of their life the last 1/3 is alway more telling. I use a Pitbull stand (front and rear). I modified the rear wheel stand a bit by putting the upright parts in a vice and bending them about 15 degrees to fit the profile of the swingarm better. I then had to really adjust the width very accurately to avoid the swingarm from sliding backwards while on the stand. I have an LP stand and that seems to be way too precarious for the 1125. It is simply not rigid enough for my comfort. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
Did you ever consider the Pilot Road 2s. i can tell the the Corsa IIIs are going fast already. | ||
| Doerman |
I really really liked the Diablos from a performance point of view. But they don't last long. So when I went to CycleGear the guy sounded knowledgeable and he talked me into the Stradas. I gave him the parameters of making sure they would stick and last a bit longer than the Diablos. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
Yeah, I love the idea of the Pilot Road 2s (durable center, softer edges), but I keep reading great wet grip all over the place. I don't ride in the wet, so obviously dry grip is my concern. Maybe I'll go back to my old standby of the Metzler M3s | ||
| Jdugger |
I don't use sport touring tires anymore. Yea, it's expensive swapping tires all the time, but the grip you get out of the Corsa IIIs or something like a Pilot Power is worth it. I got almost 3k from that Corsa rear, which I consider incredible for a sport tire. Powers only last about 2k for me. | ||
| Zac4mac |
I'm with you Fres. I've got 1900 on mine and they are flattening noticeably. When the Pirellis go, M3 Sportecs will replace them. Zack | ||
| Baggermike |
I think I will start looking at tire changers and I have seen ones on aerostich which is non powered but maybe better. I can change tires now with out scratching the rims but would like to do it the easy way if I am going to be going thru tires every 3000 miles or to put on slicks for track days. Can anyone give me suggestions as to what equipment I could buy in the 500 dollar range? | ||
| Baggermike |
I found a nice tire changer for six hundred it is called nomar for no marks on the rims, also was tested by web bike world as being really good I will get one and spit it with my son and nephew. I do not like anyone touching my bike and once I get the Manual the bike should be done with its problems and I will do the rest so check it out at www.nomartirechanger.com | ||
| Ratbuell |
Reading the posts above I checked out the Pilot 2. I was going to get CorsaIIIs for my tuber since I work at a dealer, that's why I'm following the thread...but looking at a pic of the Pilot, the tread pattern looks dead-on the same or at least very similar as my D208s. And they SUCK in the wet. Curious...now, the front looks quite different. Maybe therein lies the difference. What sort of mileages are folks getting out of the Pilot Road 2? At nearly 6k, my D208 is getting T-H-I-N. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
I would love some feedback on the PR2 too. Press release: http://canyonchasers.net/blog/uploads/mpr-2.pdf | ||
| Ccryder |
Mike: I have a No-Mar and it works GREAT! I have changed XB and ST1300 tires with no issues and NO scratches. By the time I figured the hours and $'s I spent getting wheels to the Dealer, my pay back was 2 years. Neil S. | ||
| Ccryder |
The PR2 are great in the rain and great in the dry. I'm on my 1st set of PR2 on my 700# ST1300. They have 8000 miles and still have plenty more to go. I ran 3 sets of PR's prior to the PR2. I usually got 9000-11000 out of the rear. Only comment about the PR2 is they make some noise during turn in. IMHO nothing obnoxious but, you can hear it. I will probably run them on the 1125r when I get one and burn off the OEM tires. Neil S. | ||
| Baggermike |
Thanks Neil I am getting one I have three to four bikes to maintain and maybe others I can do for guy's I know. I am trying to work a deal with my son, he does not want to drive only ride and I do not blame him so I was thinking of getting bikes, fix them up, and resell them, and the tire changer would be great, also would like to have a tig welder so I can make things and do repairs, that would be nice and give me some extra money to put in my bike and some extra money in his pockets. Mike | ||
| Doerman |
Fresno I spoke with a guy Saturday on Angeles Crest. He was riding an SV650 and had a set of worn PR2s. He was very pleased with his and will definitely get another pair. His use was commuting and cyns and he got 3500m out of his rear. He specifically mentioned good wet characteristics. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
3,500 miles...how close to replacement on of them? On the XB I was able to eke about 4,000 miles on M3s (but that is way beyond the wear indicators.) I would think that PR2s would go well beyond that. | ||
| Doerman |
Those PR2s were ready for the recycling bin. I would not ride them any more if it were me. Keep in mind, this kid was all suited up in leather and did not have a hint of a chickenstip on the tire. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
That makes me feel better about the dry grip on those PR2s | ||
| Blazin_buell |
Fresno , I took some measurements and went and picked up a Trackside stand today at Cyclegear. My old stands for the S-1 are way to puny. I got the one that has interchangeable ends(bobbins or rubber tabs)so I can take advantage of the axle sliders I finished. I'll get some pics of it tomorrow. | ||
| Buzzie |
ok ...rear wheel removal was how the thread started. its easy once you get the bike in the air. brake caliper removal ..get to the bolts through the three holes in the disc. ( look for em) loosen the axle pinch bolt ...left hand thread on the rear axle. You might need to loosen the top belt guard to have room to take the belt off the pulley...but other than that ..off it comes Metric fasteners by the way and the torx bits on this bike are all t30 I believe the brake caliper bolts are a 5 or 6 | ||
| Bearly |
Buzzie I did that but I took the lower guard off for rear wheel removal. It's only two #27 torqs bolt anyway and it seem to help me. I didn't have any torque specs so I used the ones for the Uly. I used the pit bull stands that I use on the Uly, the Lightning and the Blast. | ||
| Zac4mac |
Bear -they are T-30 not T-27. I carry a T-27 "screwdriver" under the rear seat for "spinners' but if you are using any force, use the T-30 "L-wrench" in the tool kit. Zack | ||
| Bearly |
Shoot, I'll have to take another look at that. I used the 27 just by habit. Thanks | ||
| Doerman |
This is the real wheel removal that I have been able to gather from the Shop manual draft of chapter 1 and my own experience: 1) Get the rear wheel off the ground using a stand or jack or something like that (I use a rear wheel stand (Pitbull). Be careful. The swingarm has a slope to it so a rear wheel stand has a tendency to slide forward. I used a dry rag between the Pitbull stand pegs and the swingarm to minimize the slippage. 2) Rotate the rear wheel to align the slots in the disk with the two caliper bolts and 3) Remove the two caliper bolts (allen bolts) and rotate the caliper up and back to move it out of the way 4) Loosen the pinchbolt on the underside of the left side swingarm (left as when seated on the bike) 5) Remove axle using the tool in the tool pouch> Important: It is a left handed thread! 6) Remove upper and lower belt guard (Torx fasteners) 7) When the belt gets slack carefully move it of the pulley while rotating the wheel 8) Fully remove the axle bolt and guide the wheel to the ground 9) Remove the two caliper bolts (allen bolts) and rotate the caliper up and back to move it out of the way. 10) Pull the wheel out towards the back And that's it! Putting the wheel back on is the reverse of the dismount, but keep a couple things in mind: a) When putting the axle bolt back on: Rear axle is first tightened to 27 ft-lbs then backed out 720 degrees and re-tightened to 48-52 ft-lbs. Rear pinch bolts are tightened to 40-45 ft-lbs. Make sure you apply anti-seize on the axle before putting it back on. Avoid getting the anti-seize on the swingarm paint. It can be a pita to clean up! b) The caliper bolt torque spec is 18-20ft-lbs |
