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Eargbueller
| Posted on Friday, January 25, 2008 - 08:11 pm: |
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Hello all; Few days ago I was practicing slow turns and while doing a left turn I lost my balance, could not hold the weight of the bike (a XB9SX)and let her drop in a not very hard fall (so I thought). Very little cosmetic damage (little scratches on the left mirror and clutch level, and things like that), nothing broken. However, since then, when on second gear and with apparent no reason, the bike kicks hard once in a while like if were to jump out of gear but stays in second. Also, sometimes shifting from first to second feels like grinding, but not always. Now I feel paranoid because second gear is what I use for cornering in the streets and I don't want that kick while leaning. All the other gears feel fine to me (actually shifting from second to third seemed to improve). What could possibly happen and how to fix it, please???? (Message edited by eargbueller on January 29, 2008) |
Eargbueller
| Posted on Tuesday, January 29, 2008 - 07:52 pm: |
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I adjusted the clutch free-play and mechanism as per manual and put new oil but the bike still jerks in second gear (only)when accelerating. Looking into the service manual I might suspect on a damaged shifter dog. Is this possible when there is no visible damage from outside the cover?. Is there any other diagnosis for the same symptom?. If any case, how hard is to fix it? |
Road_thing
| Posted on Tuesday, January 29, 2008 - 08:18 pm: |
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Is it possible that the shifter shaft (the shaft coming out of the primary) is slightly bent? rt |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Tuesday, January 29, 2008 - 08:51 pm: |
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I had that problem, and another that was simpler but felt the same. (lets start with the deep background for the tuber owners...) The real deal was manifested by the following... you drop it in second, fully release the clutch, really get on the gas, and about 1.5 seconds later you get this huge WHACK like the belt just jumped a gear. Its close enough to the shift that you can almost convince yourself that you had not released the clutch all the way or something, but the more it happens the more you realize its happening after you finished the clutch. Repair (on a tuber) is a lot of parts, and a lot of studying the parts catalog, and the service manual (I needed both), and you will probably need some big sockets and snap ring pliars before the job is done. But its straightforward. After getting the parts lined up, I went from riding the M2 home from work on a friday at 6pm, and by 1 AM had the transmission back together and ready to put back in the bike. That was my first time doing a job like that, and I also had a trashed countershaft, so it was worse for me then it probably will be for you. So its very doable. About a year later, the same thing happened... almost. It was doing the "whump" thing in first and second gear... and sometimes *after* the first time I got on the gas after a shift. When it was the dogs, it was one whump per shift, and only in second gear, then it was set tight till the next shift. I traced that one down to a piece of junk Dunlop D220. Bad when new, worse when worn, and a big lot strip had delaminated right down the centerline of the tire. Get on the gas at the right time, and the tire would hit that "threadbare" section, and rotate 1/3 of the way around, and catch again. A Metzler MeZ6 solved that problem... Now I am on an XB, which, unfortunately, lost the trapdoor tranny. So no rebuilding that one without splitting the cases. I can't think of a way you could wear out a dog in a lowside, and the XB transmissions have prooven to be more reliable just as they are less servicable. So it would be unusual for this to be a worn dog thing. So this is just a really long way to say I think I agree with Road Thing Bent shaft, bent shaft assembly, misadjusted primary chain tension, binding shifter, I would be looking for that kind of stuff. Inspect the rear tire for oil and damage also. And check the belt... its really rare that they strip teeth, but if you bent an idler pulley or had some foreign object damage, it could probably happen, and may feel like that also. |
Eargbueller
| Posted on Tuesday, January 29, 2008 - 11:12 pm: |
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Reepicheep, How you describe "the real deal" is very accurate. The "whack" normally happens at around 3500 rpm where I feel some loss of power and all the sudden the whacking ( in few occasions a double whacking), then the power is regained normally. This happens only in second gear and not always I am in that gear, which is annoying because I am always in continuous expectation. It is comforting to know that it is very difficult that something serious is damaged deep inside the tranny, like a dog shifter. I'll follow rt's and your own suggestions and I'll see what I can find. Thank you both. |
Mikej
| Posted on Wednesday, January 30, 2008 - 08:01 am: |
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I don't really know the XB line apart from sharing aspects with the tube framers, but I'll throw in a +1 on checking the drive belt. When they loose a "tooth" it usually seems to be more than just one nub. I haven't heard of any XB's having issues with the front pulley splines, nor much with any clutch issues. Is your bike, 2008 per your profile, still under the factory warranty? You might take it to your dealership and see if they can at least diagnose it for you. Might be worth the minimum shop/labor charge, and then you can take it home to work on it. Just a thought. |
Road_thing
| Posted on Wednesday, January 30, 2008 - 10:07 am: |
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It's been a long time since I experienced any double whacking, but I'm not as young as I used to be... rt |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Wednesday, January 30, 2008 - 12:08 pm: |
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Unfortunately on an XB, you have to split the cases, so that will be a fairly daunting task. It was much easier on the tube frame Buells. If it were me, I would probably be considering the following options (with guesses at prices)... 1)Pull the engine intact and ship it to one of two engine builders I trust. Have them split the cases and rebuild the engine to be something streetable, reliable, and really fun. Like a short stroke 88" or something. I would lean on their recommendations. It would probably cost $4000 USD, which would stink, but the total outcome ($7k for original 9sx, plus $4k for extra work) is still a fairly good deal for the kind of exotic bike that would result. Plus the fact that you got however many miles you got on the original motor. 2) Get an engine from a low milage salvage bike, swap them, and sell my original for what I can get for it. 3) Pay my dealer to go in and split the cases and rebuild the tranny. 4) Decide it's going to be an "over the winter hobby" and do it all myself. I would go into it expecting to invest significant money in new special tools, and expect that I will have to do the job twice before it is all correct (not being experienced in splitting motors). I'd have to do some hard research on the real $$ of each option to decide. The first and the last look like the most attractive options to me at this point. A 9sx with an 88" motor would be no end of fun... |
Eargbueller
| Posted on Friday, April 11, 2008 - 08:00 pm: |
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After six weeks parked in the dealership with the transmission split open(mostly waiting for back-ordered pieces)they just could not find a reason for the internal damage. A bunch of pieces were replaced, including the shifter dog for the 2nd gear. I have ridden my bike for 300 miles afterward and I can tell it is far better and smoother than new. The technician at Peterson's in Miami did a beautiful job, after all. And the best of it: was covered by the factory warranty. My life is back |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Friday, April 11, 2008 - 09:13 pm: |
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great news! |
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