| Author | Message | ||
     Pudgedawg007 |
i am looking in the used market for a buell kinda like the x-1 lightning but i want to put a full fairing on whatever one i get any one have pics of different buell's with full fairings and weather it is a kit or fully custom | ||
| Diablobrian |
The firebolt fairing for street bikes is made by shark skinz and available exclusively through Hal's Performance Advantage. Halspa.com It is the fairing on my bike.  There are other fairings available for the firebolt through other vendors, but those will need to have headlight holes cut because they are designed to be used on race bikes, not street bikes. The Sebimoto pieces in particular are very high quality parts. After dealing with both on a race bike I actually prefer the sebimoto for racing, but the sharkskinz upper looks much better for the street with the factory style insets. Unfortunately you cannot mix and match the different brand upper and lower fairings. | ||
| Pudgedawg007 |
any pics from the front??? | ||
| Diablobrian |
I don't have any pics from the front on this computer, but it looks like a standard firebolt upper except there are no black inserts around the headlights. | ||
| Kenetiksoul |
I don't know if diablobrian ever checks this thread any more, but I like the full fair on that bike! Is that an x on top, is that an sx by chance? I have an sx and am doing the full fairing mod, and was wondering the best way about geting the fairing kit on? It's all one piece from sharkskinz, so it looks like I will to jack the bike up, take the front wheel off, and such, is this the case? And finaly ( for now ) did you paint the fairing kit your self? | ||
| Diablobrian |
I got the city-X "x" from Al at American Sport Bike because he had a broken cover laying around with it on it. The bike is an 03 firebolt. The fairing is 2 pieces, upper and lower split about level where the clutch cover is. You can either drop the belly pan to change the front tire, or use race stands like I do. I did not paint the fairing myself, but any auto body shop familiar with fiberglass can do it no problem. They will add a little bit of flexible additive to the paint to reduce the amount of spider webbing. I also recommend putting a piece of heat shielding on the inside of the fairing where the fairing is closest to prevent the heat scorching the paint. I also wrapped my headers as a sort of belt and suspenders solution. You will need a firebolt fairing brace to mount the fairing too. Between helping my brother mount a full fairing on his street firebolt and helping with several fairings on the race team bike I've got a little experience with these things. (Message edited by diablobrian on November 08, 2007) | ||
| Kenetiksoul |
domo, I am buying a fairing kit from, hals, the one from sharkskinz, the only one they have that I have seen is full. The bike stands, thats the things you put in the tires to lift it a little right? I know it will be some work, are there any special tools i may need or the typical ratchet set and screw drivers, and allan keys? If you don't mind, I would like to pic your brain more, as I find thing to ponder?. Currently i am in Iraq, so I have time to think. Domo-soul | ||
| Diablobrian |
To install the fairing on your bike you will need the firebolt bracket that I mentioned before, the mounting kit from Hal's (or fabricate your own), A drill and bits to make the mount holes for the fairing and windscreen, a marker, a friend to help hold things during test fittings, and a saw to cut clearances for the kickstand and exhaust outlets because the belly pan is designed for race bike use...so no kickstand provision. Also, at full lock it is not at all unusual to have a little bit of contact between the front wheel and the inside-bottom of the fairing. It has never been anything but a cosmetic issue and even then it's only an problem if you are down on the ground looking at the inside of the fairing. I'll see if I can get some pics to show you. The race stands that I use are a spool type in the rear, but you will need a "universal" type that hold the bike from underneath the swingarm. The front stands come in two types, under the fork leg and under the triple clamp lifts. I highly recommend the type that lift from under the triple clamp. You can find stands ranging from cheap to expensive. Expensive being $400 or so for the pair. I use and prefer pitbull stands. They are by most accounts the very best there are. I wouldn't trust my >$10k bike to cheap stands, but that is me. Some folks swear by Handy and T-Rex stands that can be had for ~$200 for a pair. Feel free to ask any questions you may have. I have no problem helping other Buell riders when I can. | ||
| Babyhuey |
how important is the oil cooler upgrade? i'm finally converting mine to full race and was unsure of how important the big oil cooler and duct is to a bike that will constantly be moving at high speed.if i need to i'll do it but i'd rather use the money for other things.thanks -andrew | ||
| Diablobrian |
I have not yet done the oil cooler upgrade on my bike, neither have most of the race bikes in ASRA or CCS that I have seen. If you are endurance racing I'd do it, or if you are going to be spending a lot of time on big tracks like Daytona or Road America. For a street bike or for sprint races I would not be worried about it nearly as much. | ||
| Babyhuey |
that's good to know as the local tracks that ccs/asra uses are only 1.5 to 1.8 miles long.i figured that worst case i'd have to make a duct to make the stock cooler more functional.-ANDREW |
