| Author | Message | ||
     Nocompromise |
So, here's a quick tip from a novice - this type of damaged bolt/screw remover works great. I got the tip from one of the guys at Ace Hardware, but I always go with Craftsman when I can. Plus, their tool warranty is awesome! I just exchanged a few damaged tools for the first time and it was easy as pie - just pulled the new ones off the rack and they rung them up for free. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_009521510 00P?vName=Tools&keyword=deck-out Ok, onto the (dumb) questions. I did search for an answer before I finally decided to post! 1. So, my new Shock Racing LED turn signals have bullet connectors on them. The rear wires already had the connectors cut, so I just stripped the wires and crimped them. The front wires have the connectors pictured below. Is there some kind of male connector that I can install on the turn signals? The only reason I'm hesitant to cut the female ends in the picture off is that these wires are pretty dang short to begin with. I hate to "waste" any length in case I need to cut them again for some reason.  2. So, the previous owner did a pretty nice mod to the Force exhaust and had some nuts welded to it for a heat shield. One of the nuts has some metal shards (presumably from a bolt) wedged into the threads. What is the best way to clean the threads out? Will a tap clean the threads without damaging them? I included a comparison picture with the other nut just to show where the shards are lodged (in case that's not obvious). Thanks for any advice!   | ||
| Ratbuell |
Your wires should be the same, or similar, bullet connectors. Do you have the original signals you took off? Cut their tails off, and splice them onto the new signals. Easier to splice into the removable part of the harness, than the vehicle side of the harness! You can try a tap on the threads of the nut, but I suspect it'll bottom out on the pipe before it has a chance to clean the threads. Try a wire brush, rotating in and out like it was a bolt. Either that, or I keep a set of dental picks in the garage for things like this. And for popping junk out of the idle jet on '61 Nash carburetors so the mother-in-law's car runs again. And for hooking the short wires you just....can't.....reach and pulling them around the corner so you can reach them. And for fishing circlips out of engine cases so they don't have to be split. Very useful little tools.  | ||
| Nocompromise |
Joe, thanks for the input. I don't have the stock signals because the previous owner didn't have any signals mounted. The wires on the LED lights have little bullet connectors that could loosely fit in the pictured female end. But, I would have to crimp them somehow which would ruin the female ends for reuse. I'll try the wire brush and the dental picks. Where do you get dental picks?  | ||
| Bill0351 |
Hey! I can be helpful for the first time instead of just asking questions! I used to have a set of bottoming taps that we used to chase the block or cylinder threads before torquing down heads. I think the whole set was under $20.00 from Summit Racing. That, or if you are really careful, you can make your own by grinding the tip of a standard progressive cutting tap flat and dressing up the edges with a whet-stone. The dull edges will kind of squish the threads back into shape instead of cutting metal away. It works really well. Just make sure you go slow. Bill | ||
| Smoke |
there should be a seam on the new signals male plugs that you can spread open to make the ends a bigger diameter to fit the bikes female ends. i used my ever present pocket knife to do the job 6 years ago on the S1 LP signals and they still work. i also got dual element type and wired them into the tail light and instrument lights for always on running lights. i usually make bottoming taps out of regular taps on the belt sander tim | ||
| Wardan123 |
NAPA has the male connectors- Check their electrical selection and be sure to get the red connectors for 18 guage wire. There are 2 sizes- if I recall, get the one with the .157 or .153 designation. | ||
| Kdkerr2 |
On your buggered internal threads you may be screwed [pun intended]. Go to Ace Hardware and buy a regular tap [most places don't carry bottoming taps anyway]. Take a disk sander and grind away the lead. Quite often the lead is longer then the length of the nut. You will then have an improvised bottoming tap that should clean up the threads. Make sure you frequently quench the tap in water so as not to overheat the tap while you're relieving it. Also make absolutely sure you've got the right thread. There are two sizes of threads. | ||
| Nocompromise |
Thanks for all the great advice!!  Just to verify (I've never used a tap before), from my internet reading the difference between a bottoming tap and a regular tap is just a flat versus a tapered point? The threads themselves are the same? So, if I cut the tapered point off a regular tap then it will be identical to a bottoming tap? I don't want to risk damaging the threads - is there anything to be aware of when I start cutting? Thanks again!! | ||
| Mikej |
Taps are very hard and are heat treated, you may have some issues shortening one. The biggest issue when tapping existing threads is to ensure proper engagement and avoid cross-threading. For quick and dirty thread cleaning some have had success cutting a notch in a bolt with a Dremel cutoff wheel and using the modified bolt as a makeshift tap-like thread cleaner. For some attempting this though the situation only got worse. | ||
| Beatx1 |
Use a belt sander to shorten the tap to make a bottoming tap. Just dip it in cold water to keep it cool. Go slow and like they said above make sure it's aligned and not cross threading | ||
| Nocompromise |
Ace Hardware in Vacaville ROCKS!! The had a bunch of bottoming taps including the size I needed right on the rack! I was in and out in about 5 minutes. The bottoming tap worked perfectly! I probably took a little more time than normal making sure everything was lined up, but once I got it started it was smooth sailing. Cleaning out the hole probably took longer than tapping it. Thanks for all the great advice guys!!  I've had a Dremel tool for a long time, but I only recently learned about cutting discs that can cut metal (I know I'm ignorant). That has opened up a whole world of possibilities, as I've already shortened a number of bolts. I'm already imagining more possibilities for bike mods! Also, I got the turn signals installed. I gave up and just cut those female ends off. When the Buell dealer didn't know what male ends fit into it I decided to just go for it. I can always wire in an extension if I need more length. The Shock Racing LED's look great! I'll try to get some pics up, but I HIGHLY recommend them! They are very inexpensive compared to Kellermans and they are quite bright. Excellent value! | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Don't forget to use stainless bolts in those exhaust nuts. Looks like the previous guy did | ||
| Nocompromise |
Why stainless? I have stainless and regular Grade 5 bolts - the guy at Lowe's (not the best source I know) said they were about the same hardness. | ||
| Bill0351 |
Is there going to be any problem with galvanic corrosion using stainless screwed into regular steel? It always makes me nervous screwing two metals together that are even a little different. Or, are stainless and regular steel so similar that it doesn't matter? Bill | ||
| Hacksaw |
Bill No problem with steel and stainless steel being together as far as being disimlar metals. The problem can come from the heat from the exhaust causing the stainless to gaul when trying to remove it. Use antiseize on the threads to help. Nocompromise Pacific Hardware also has chrome plated bolts available. |
