| Author | Message | ||
     Nautique4life |
OK, I am new to the site in general and searched for the thread and found only a couple posting on where people have discussed this. SO, I over torqued the nut on my upper rear exhaust stud and twisted it off. It broke down in the the motor. I understand this is good. After a lengthy convo with Al, and phone calls to HD/Buell that don't do machine work, I am ready to purchase a JIMS Exhaust Stud Drill Plate to attempt removal by myself. If any one has one that they (hope they) don't need anymore, please let me know. Thanks in advance. | ||
| Dtmcnamara |
BY THE JIMS TOOL!!! I tried to do it without the tool and it was the worst mistake ever. Get the tool, drill it out and then replace them all with stainless bolts and washers. best investment ever | ||
| Oldog |
pOST IN THE GENERAL SECTION ASK TO BORROW IT, BUY NEW COBALT DRILL BITS & HAVE AT.. | ||
| Sloppy |
USE A LEFT HANDED DRILL BIT to get the stud out. I'd highly recommend NOT to use a hardened bit or easy out or tap. Although very strong, they are brittle and when they break they can not be drilled out... | ||
| 98s1lightning |
Send me the head and let a pro do it, I'm not saying you cant but i have had to re fix several heads latley due to the same thing. If not, GOOD LUCK! | ||
| Sooner |
Dtmacnamara, Where did you get the stainless bolts, and if it is HD, what is the part number? | ||
| Dtmcnamara |
i went to a local hardware store. i brought up a stud that i got out and matched it up. I got 4 bolts, and some washers and it worked perfectly. now i just need to repair my head that i damaged and I can get this bike back on the road again | ||
| Reepicheep |
I didn't get the jims tool, and managed to recover anyway, and my advice matches DT's. Get the Jims Tool. I just pissed away 4 hours building two engine mounts for a KLR 250 that I could have bought for $26. 4 hours of welding and grinding, and my conclusion? I was a ••••••• for not spending the $26 on the $2 factory stamped pieces of metal. Buy the Jims tool... | ||
| Xldevil |
Most of them header studs break because they were overtightened,IMO.Just like yours. Give them only the torque the manual recoomens,7-10 ft-lbs, and retighten them on a regular base by a torque wrench. If you didn't like to recheck them,you can go for the Nordlock washers or the Stage 8 fasteners. Another good investment to avoid broken out motor mount studs,which often an issue too, is the "Stenzel Stütze". It's a genius reinforcement bar,respectively release of front motor mount   http://www.stenzel-parts.de/14321.html Ralph (Message edited by xldevil on August 25, 2007) | ||
| Ceejay |
Reep-ya but it gave you an excuse to to fab something up, which aint too bad  get the Jims tool like everyone else stated. no point in saving 80 bucks vs. trashing a head-which does have a high probability of happening... | ||
| Al_lighton |
John's new to the board, looks like he posted this in the wrong place. He has an XB, and it is the upper rear exhaust stud. See http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/301750.html?1187982128#POST959415 The worst of his problem isn't the stud, the Jims tool will make quick work of that, IF HE CAN GET A DRILL TO IT!. al | ||
| Xldevil |
If he can't cheat on it,he got to remove the head.That's the safer method anyway. Ralph | ||
| Nautique4life |
Thanks everyone for your comments. If anyone is curious to what is happening with this, I have replied in the proper thread. See the link Al posted above. I will be a frequent poster so try to bear with me. I love my xb and I will have pics up soon. I should assume I post those in pics section huh? lol. | ||
| Mmmi_grad |
how much for the crazy bar thing devil? |
