| Author | Message | ||
     Dave_02_1200 |
I will soon be acquiring a low mileage 2002 M2 - completely stock. The plan is to install a Forcewinder air filter and intake along with a slip-on exhaust, possibly a Supertrapp. Does anyone have any recommendations regarding main jet size, pilot jet size and needle shim thickness that could serve as a starting point? (a little on the rich side to be safe) I am at sea level with high humidity (Gulf Coast) Any experience and recommendations would be much appreciated. Thanks, Dave | ||
| Ratbuell |
Both my bikes (S1W and S2) run 45/190 combos, 2.5 turns out on the mix screw. I'd have to open them up to see which clip I'm using...but IIRC I used the "recommended" setting in the Dynojet kit for filter/muffler modded bike. The S2 runs a supertrapp slip on, the S1W has a V&H SS2R, both have the oval CF air cleaner, both are thunderstorm engines. I'm located in the eastern seaboard - hot and humid here too, at least part of the year. They run fine in the summer and in winter with this setup...although I know "winter" to you guys is what, 68 degrees and cloudy? LOL. (Message edited by ratbuell on August 31, 2007) | ||
| Aldaytona |
On tube frame carb bikes rule #1: Yost CV-40 Master Kit www.yostpreformance.com You'll be glad you did.  | ||
| Crashbuell |
My bike really likes the 48 low speed and 200 main jet combo. I've got cams approximate to whats in an S1, buell pro-series exhaust and aircleaner. I ran the air screw out 2 1/2 turns like everyone said to. The gas mileage isn't all that hot, but theres no stumble or "CV cough". When I'm just cruising along and I whack the throttle open, it pulls really hard. Your cams are different than mine, but you can try out a couple of different jet sizes until you find the set that you like, because the stock carb is easy to work on. | ||
| Djkaplan |
I have an M2 with stock cams and Pro Series race kit. I live 300ft above sea level in a fairly humid area. 2 1/2 turns on the idle mixture screw, #45 pilot jet (up from the stock #42), stock #200 main, with the stock needle shimmed .032. This seems to work well, but I'm going to lower the needle a little more to lean the mixture across the board... ... and eventually replace the Keihin CV with a flatslide Mikuni. I rode an S1 equipped with one (thanks Smoke!) and was really impressed with the throttle response. | ||
| Dave_02_1200 |
Thank you very much! That is exactly the information I needed to get started. The Yost CV Master Kit looks like a good idea too. You guys are great! Thanks again, Dave | ||
| Aesquire |
2 1/2 turns on the idle mixture screw, #45 pilot jet (up from the stock #42), 195 main, ( leaner than stock ) .015 shims under needle. That's with a modded airbox & slip on. I have heard that the Yost kit will hurt your mileage, the stock bits with proper jetting work fine. ( and are cheap ) | ||
| Jackbequick |
Good details here on how to do it yourself, just do the jets first and don't worry about drilling out the hole in the slide or changing or moving the needle position. http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hd_cv_mods.htm# slide_detail I went to the #48 low speed jet, uncapped the adjustment screw, set it at 2-1/2 turns out from lightly closed, and never touched it again. The difference in the way the bike started, warmed up, and ran was nothing short of miraculous. Look at replacing the intake manifold seals while you're at it. Those harden with time and heat, some say to replace them every 2-3 years and it is easy enough to do when you have the carb off. One of the screws is tricky to get in and out, the KV has the details on it. Jack |
