| Author | Message | ||
     Captinchip302 |
I'm having a problem getting the rotor off my 97 M2. The 4 bolts that hold it were in very tight. I've gotten two out, and I'm trying to drill out the other two now. So at the minimum I'll need new bolts. Also the bearing housing seems like it has some slack in it. Maybe a new rear wheel is in order? On top of all of that I'm having a hard time finding someone to balance the tire for me. They said it was too big. Any thoughts? Suggestions? It's been some frustrating maintenace. | ||
| Zenfrogmaster |
Drilling out the rotor bolts is not uncommon - BTDT. You may need new bearings, but certainly not a new wheel. Any shop should be able to mount / balance, as 170 or 180 is pretty standard. Call a shop that specializes in Japanese or European bikes, an independent, or a place like Cycle Gear. | ||
| Mikef5000 |
Sorry I can't be of much help. The standard bike tire shop around here had no problems balancing my wheels. What's too big about it? It's standard height, and fairly thin. | ||
| Lake_bueller |
On top of all of that I'm having a hard time finding someone to balance the tire for me. They said it was too big. Any thoughts? Suggestions? Try the DIY method. I bought this set-up on ebay and it works great!! Static Balancer | ||
| Captinchip302 |
Thanks for the input, I'm kinda limited in my area as to where I can take my bike to be serviced. There's not even a good machince shop in the area. | ||
| Dave_02_1200 |
You might try some good penetrating oil first. I use Kroil but also like JB Blaster. (WD 40 is less effective) Put it on the bolt and let it soak overnight. This stuff dissolves some of the corrosion that makes it hard to undo bolts in aluminum after they have been in place for a while. Tap lightly with a hammer and soak again. Then heat aluminum lightly and remove bolts with an impact-driver using a six-point socket.(hand-operated one is fine $9.00 at Harbor Freight) I have old bikes and have found very few fasteners that can't be removed using that process. If, as a last resort, you have to get out the drill, be very careful because the bolt is hard and the surrounding aluminum is very soft (and vulnerable if you get off track with your drill bit). Good luck. Good luck. | ||
| Tattoodnscrewd |
May not be the correct term .. but those rotor bolts are best removed with a manual/hand impact wrench .. (the type you whack with a hammer) .. next time around - try that ... Just did it to the rear rotor on a wheel that was in a fire .. got em out no problem .. | ||
| Kdkerr2 |
The sockethead flathead allen bolts in the Buell rotors [both front & rear] can be a b!tch to remove especially if they've been on for years and you drove through lots of rain. Smacking them hard with brass or copper punches the same diameter as the head sometimes loosens them so you can back them off. Otherwise use Kroil like Dave suggested or liquid wrench. Best to have the wheel flat so the chemicals don't leak away so fast. If that doesn't work and you strip out the sockets drill the heads off. Use cutting oil [motor oil will do] and drill as slowly as the drill will allow. These are alloy screws and if you drill too fast you will work harden the heads and dull your drill point. Use round jawed Vise-Grips [for studs and pipes]not flat jawed types to remove the remaining screw studs. When you put the new screws in use Neverseize or some other similar compound on the threads and maybe you won't strip out the sockets on the next rotor change. Do not apply loctite to the screws! | ||
| Firemanjim |
Take a brass drift and give the bolt head some good bangs and heat will break down the Loctite. | ||
| Numb_nutz |
Best way i found is a little heat on the head and a hand impact. They come right out. Always put new ones in anyway. | ||
| Road_thing |
Mr. Propane Torch is your friend... rt | ||
| Aldaytona |
Put in Dyna Beads and forget the balancer, forever. Tires stay balanced for their useful life. | ||
| Bad_karma |
Chip Keep a eye on your belt tension. Glad to here from a mountaineer. Joe |
