Author |
Message |
Buellboiler
| Posted on Thursday, July 05, 2007 - 11:11 pm: |
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I've reviewed the KV but I still have a question. My X-1 just turned 5,800 miles and in the past week or so the front brakes are sounding progressively worst. Sounds like the scraping of a pad that is gone. I disassembled and there is approximately 1/2 life remaining. I plan to flush the fluid tomorrow with new DOT 4. I'm tempted to replace the pads just to get rid of the sound. The brakes do operate normally - except for the horrible sound. Any advice would be appreciated. Boiler |
Firemanjim
| Posted on Friday, July 06, 2007 - 02:45 am: |
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Take some 320 W&D sandpaper and take glaze off of pads and rotor,should help. |
Kyrocket
| Posted on Friday, July 06, 2007 - 07:08 am: |
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Also check your fluid requirement. My X1 requires DOT 5. Don't know if it would amount to a hill of beans but better to be safe than sorry. |
Djkaplan
| Posted on Friday, July 06, 2007 - 08:47 am: |
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Use the hydraulic fluid it says to use on the brake reservoir cap. My 2000 M2 says 'DOT 4 ONLY'. Maybe the requirement changed in 2001 (Kyrocket... is this what the deal is?) but I'd check the cap to be absolutely sure. |
Psycrow
| Posted on Friday, July 06, 2007 - 09:06 am: |
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Make certain of the fluid type specified on the Master cylinder cap. If I'm not mistaken and I could be DOT 4 and DOT 5 have significant differences. DOT 5 is a silicon based fluid that was developed to be non corrosive to paint (spills) but requires seals and lines to be of a different material. The two are not compatible. |
Chasespeed
| Posted on Friday, July 06, 2007 - 09:13 am: |
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Make certain of the fluid type specified on the Master cylinder cap. If I'm not mistaken and I could be DOT 4 and DOT 5 have significant differences. DOT 5 is a silicon based fluid that was developed to be non corrosive to paint (spills) but requires seals and lines to be of a different material. The two are not compatible. That is correct. You can replace DOT 3 with DOT 4 with little issue, BUT, not DOT 5... DOT 5 alos has a higher boiling point... FWIW, my 99X1 is DOT5... I think all X1s are DOT 5, not sure though... Didnt know the M2s were DOT 4.. Chase} |
Djkaplan
| Posted on Friday, July 06, 2007 - 09:24 am: |
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I just checked the S1 manual in the archives, and it says to only use DOT 5 silicone based fluid. I wonder why bikes with the same brakes (X1's and M2's) use different hydraulic fluids in different years? Another conundrum. |
Kyrocket
| Posted on Friday, July 06, 2007 - 09:28 am: |
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Yes, yes, and yes. Check the cap to be sure. Mine is a '99 X1 also and uses Dot 5 according to the reservoir cap, but it's good to know that about the other bikes and the DOT differences. Haven't seen you around these parts much lately Chase, welcome back. |
Oldog
| Posted on Friday, July 06, 2007 - 09:53 am: |
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I think all X1s are DOT 5, not sure though. Errr No, either I have been using the Wrong fluid or mine is Dot 4. I will check this evening to be sure. BTW My x1 is an '01. Chase is absolutely correct about the fluids issue,......} My GUESS on the differing fluids may be differing materials used for rubber parts or changing brake specs, the XB's that my Neighbour owns use dot 4 as does my bike. (Message edited by OlDog on July 06, 2007) |
Djkaplan
| Posted on Friday, July 06, 2007 - 10:25 am: |
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Good to know this stuff. I think I remember a discussion here years ago about this very issue... |
Onahog
| Posted on Friday, July 06, 2007 - 10:32 am: |
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NOTE !Chamfering the edges of the pads helps to prevent brake pad chatter ...Some pads come already chamfered.Hankb |
Chasespeed
| Posted on Friday, July 06, 2007 - 10:36 am: |
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Take a little comfoft in this... If you are running DOT4, you are paying quite a bit less for fluid than those of us with DOT5... My PERSONAL opinion... I do enjoy the IDEA of the higher boiling point on DOT5... BUt, i dont think its really necesarry for most street bikes.... Should be standard on any track bike...but.. Chase |
Akbuell
| Posted on Friday, July 06, 2007 - 11:52 am: |
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Another vote for DOT 4, according to both the master cyl cap and the FSM for my '01 X-1. As an aside, while everything is apart, making sure all is clean and the pin holding the pads in place is not bent/binding? |
Buellboiler
| Posted on Friday, July 06, 2007 - 12:11 pm: |
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Guys - I remember the master cylinder lid stating DOT 4 fluid, BUT I will double check! FYI - these are the factory stock pads, as if that makes any difference. After I sand, I will chamfer the edges. I will clean the caliper with a soft brush to remove any accumulated brake dust. I have PM wheels, is there a trick to removing the calipers with these wheels? Thanks to all! Boiler |
Djkaplan
| Posted on Friday, July 06, 2007 - 01:51 pm: |
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The first trick it to put tape over the wheel to keep it from being scratched as you slide the caliper between it and the disc. It's not really necessary to remove the caliper to change the pads, though, you can change the pads with the caliper still attached to the fork leg. Make sure to clean the crud off the pistons when you push them back into the caliper. |
Buellboiler
| Posted on Friday, July 06, 2007 - 05:03 pm: |
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Djk, I had the pads off last night to check the wear and it is nice to be able to remove them without pulling the caliper. I just wanted to know how toe remove the caliper so I could clean it properly. I checked and my 2001 X-1 requires DOT 4 brake fluid. It is strange to realize that different year X-1s require different brake fluid. |
Wile_ecoyote
| Posted on Friday, July 06, 2007 - 10:49 pm: |
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Im yet to figure out a way to get the caliper out without first loosening axle and removing the disc too. There isnt enough space there to do it. I've also been looking into a new full headed bolt to fit disc cause they seem to wear out in the head and are a bitch to get out when stripped. Anyone know what can be done? I switched to a wave rotor front and rear and love em. |
Buellzebub
| Posted on Saturday, July 07, 2007 - 09:19 am: |
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... if you cross your eyes and hold your tongue just right the caliper can be weaseled free, don't give up. step back, have a beverage and go look at it again. i've wrestled with mine and thought it to be impossible only to wiggle it a certain way and have it pop free, leaving me scratching my head wondering how i did it. some times you may have to push the pistons back into their bores to get the required clearance too. |
Chasespeed
| Posted on Saturday, July 07, 2007 - 09:55 am: |
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I replaced the cross pin in mine(jacked up), with a PIN from a.... GSXR1100, 90 era.. Nissan 4 piston calipers, 5mm head, etc.. fit right in there... I think I determined that the Nissan Cross Pins were the same, most of them anyway. Chase |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Saturday, July 07, 2007 - 10:38 am: |
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Just a thought on the DOT ratings - I know HD changed back and forth a couple years ago, from "better fluid" to "non corrosive" and back again. Remember, Buell sources many things from HD. Even though the master cylinders are not HD, they may well be using HD seals and rebuild kits - the parts that do or don't work with a particular fluid. For roughing up brake pads, my personal preference is a roloc disc. Bzzzzzzt - done! Six seconds tops, much less work and more time for the "rubiks cube the caliper back in" beverage ;) |
Djkaplan
| Posted on Saturday, July 07, 2007 - 12:31 pm: |
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"i've wrestled with mine and thought it to be impossible only to wiggle it a certain way and have it pop free, leaving me scratching my head wondering how i did it." Yeah, that's what happened to me too. I stepped back, drank a beer, and when I tried again, it slipped out. I was happy and confused at the same time. |
Fullauto
| Posted on Tuesday, July 17, 2007 - 05:36 am: |
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'99 X1s use Dot 5. 2000 and on X1s use Dot 4. Says so in my Buell manual. |
Bad_karma
| Posted on Wednesday, July 18, 2007 - 12:17 am: |
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Clean around the pistons and insure there isn't crap in there. Joe |