| Author | Message | ||
     Itchybro |
Stock exhaust has finallly arrived. I'm taking off the one the idiot sawed off. Anything weird awaitng me? Any hints besides have all metric/SAE/Torx sizes available? Any weirdness awaiting putting the other one on? (I tried to post this in the tech section that has generated the "Knee begging" but apparently that thread has been closed. I apologize in advance for asking here. Thanks) | ||
| Barker |
simple, if are used to wrenching on anything. My best advice, you need a wobble extension for your ratchet to get thru the holes in the idler pulley to get the back strap. You really need to get a Service manual. about $60. Great reading. Worth it's wait in gold. Best money you can spend @ a dealership. Sponsors can get u one. Or you can visit SM harley in Maryville. | ||
| Itchybro |
BIG Yup to the "get a service manual". It's nice of them to post Owners manuals but, there's not much else in there regarding maintenance. Thanks for the tip. | ||
| Slaughter |
One thing - use the Screaming Eagle exhaust gaskets. Cheap and they'll definitely work longer than the stock gaskets. I think I heard that new Buells started coming out with the Screaming Eagle equivalent but I always ask for the SE gaskets. | ||
| Barker |
new gaskets for a can/slip-on swap? or just for headers? | ||
| Itchybro |
Operation "jeebus turn that thing down" compleat! Don't know if everything was done to factory specs but uh...Everythings done. Me likey the lack of noise MUCH bettah! Didn't get a chance to ride as I performed the operation in a carport while it lightly showered but thundered and lightning'd quite a bit. Re; operation. All I did was swap the bottom can. Barker: Still can't tell if I've fouled the plugs or not. Don't know if I've cured the mapping or not either. I do know that whomever invented torx screws for body work will be sitting in hell next to the crafty German gentleman who decided BMW bodywork should use hex screws that thread into those little gold tab/clasp thingies that like to pop off. Group in general: THis is a great community and resource for idgits like me who are neophyte wrench types. Thanks for the info and inspiration to tackle such things. | ||
| Jaimec |
Please give a little detail, because I'm looking at removing my stock can this winter so I can remove the rust and repaint it. I want to know what I'm getting myself into... | ||
| Barker |
FYI: no need to remove idler pulley to remove pipe, as service manual suggests. | ||
| Itchybro |
Ok, couple things: First: Removal of the hacked can was pretty easy although the "bands" at the rear were a little iffy. The way the nuts were precisely centered at the bottom made it a little tough to get a grip on them with a wrench. Once I got them backed off a bit I was able to use a socket on the speed wrench. I took the band off the front of my can to remove it. When I unpacked the new/used one the band was still on it. Thus, I had to remove the hex bolt that runs through the motor mount or bottom of the motor, however you wanna look at it. As always, disassembly is easier than RE-assembly. (duh) When I put the new one on, I tried to get it on the header (sorta) and lined up as best I could. Then, I attached the bands at the rear. You'll want something to go under it to prop up the front end, while you semi-snug the back. CAUTION: At this point it's a REALLY good idea to make sure the "hose clamp" that snugs the header to the exhaust is in place. If not, mild to extreme cursing will ensue accompanied with multiple self deprecating remarks later in the process. You will then seek your sunburned neighbor in search of a big set of channel locks after you've bent the mutha open because, there's no way in hades you're taking the bands back off the bottom. Once that's done it's time to start trying to line up that pesky hex bolt (that has a nut on the other side of the hole with a "placeholder" that's cast into the block) Once you get the hex bolt to go through (a generous shower of WD40 probably helped a bit as many of my bolts were oxidized pretty well)it's time to snug it up. The nut on the other side can be a bit tough to get hold of, due to the placement of the oil filter. I used the miracle tool (leather man needle nose) to hold it while tightening the hex head on the other side. While lying on the oil filter side, so I could keep an eye and steady grip on the bolt, I used an extension on the 3/8th's drive. This allowed me to reach under the bike to turn the drive and get a bit more torque on the hex bolt. I have no service manual thus no torque specs for this bolt (or any of the others for that matter). Also, in my bizzare contortion at the time I don't think I could've operated the torque wrench anyway. I tried to snug everyone to not quite the point of "strip it then back of half a turn". When I repeat this process (if ever) I'd like to have some pit stands (or a lift even) to get the bike up off the ground a little more so I could get a full revolution from the wrenches. I'd also like to do it inside a well lit garage and not a carport with wind and lightning going on in the dark but hey, that's the name of the bike. | ||
| Itchybro |
P.S. Upon re-reading the thread, I was too dumb to go after the bolts above the pulley (and I don't think I saw them in the dark) thus, I loosened the bands on the bottom of the exhaust. After all that, I rode it in to work this morning and it seems a little better but, I still think it's stumbling in the low revs. I recall the new ones REALLY smoothing out at about 2k. I don't know if I've fouled the plugs or what. There's still PLENTY of torque from 3k on so I don't think I've burned a piston or anything that catastrophic. Any hints? (P.S. How much crap has to come off to get to the plugs? OY!) | ||
| Mortarmanmike120 |
Plugs are easy, it's the plug wires that suck. No, on second thought they're pretty easy to take off too - putting them back on is the trick. Find someone with small hands to replace the rear plug wire. After cursing and swearing at the rear plug wire for half a hour it dawned on me why EB employs elves to build his bikes. (small fingers) | ||
| Itchybro |
Just looked at the Drummer site's instuctions for "muffler removal". I did NONE of these steps.
Is this the reason it seems rough on the bottom end? I saw the little valve deal but found nothing "cable-y" running to or from the bike. PLEH cried professor backwards. |
