| Author | Message | ||
     Jaimec |
I just came back from California Superbike School at Pocono Raceway. I set up my Lightning Long's suspension as per the recommendations in the user's manual (taking care that I was looking at the settings for the XB12Ss, and not the regular models). The tech staff from CSS said that the suspension as I had it set had too much sag front and rear. I think the bike handles just fine (in fact, since I made the changes the bike has been pure magic). But now I'm wondering... could it be even better? I know I've read articles where the author THOUGHT he knew how to set up a motorcycle suspension and only managed to make the Buell he was testing handle WORSE. So what's the story? Can any one explain this so a moron like me can understand it? Anonymous?? | ||
| Fdl3 |
This article has helped me out: Suspension Guide | ||
| Brucen |
I am curious about this too. I have an SS, but all the suspension discussions and sugestions seem to be about the standard Lightning. I don't think they would apply to the SS. Has anyone figured out better settings? | ||
| Jaimec |
Brucen, look in your owner's manual. There are pages for the standard XB12S, and pages for the XB12Ss. Make sure you're reading the right pages. They are definitely in there (at least they are in my 2006 owner's manual). | ||
| Brucen |
I am talking about settings for aggressive track riding and so on. I see suggested settings from different sources, like the settings people have posted here, for the non-long bikes, but nothing for the SS. Does the different design of the SS mean that it is a lot less sensitive to changes in the settings than the other bikes? Like I said, the settings from the manual work well, but I wonder if they could be improved upon. I road a XB12 R with a badly set up suspension & it was terrible, so I don't want to mess with my bike unless I know it can improve it. | ||
| M1combat |
Why not adjust it to the sag measurements that are widely accepted as the norm but record where it's at first... That way you can see if they're giving you good advice or not and you can go back if you don't like it. Did they mention WHY they thought you had too much sag? I assume they didn't measure it... Were you experiencing any sort of issue with the handling that they suggested this in response to? | ||
| Jaimec |
No, I was thinking the bike was handling just fine. But the bike seemed to be set up much "softer" than they're used to seeing. Instead of 33% sag it was more like 50% sag. | ||
| Ridrx |
Jaimec, That IS too much IMHO. The damping control devices have a set range of motion within which to control spring movement. Using up so much of the travel with overly soft preload prevents the dampers from being able to properly control spring motion, and increases the chances of bottoming out the suspension. The geometry of the bike is likely a bit askew as well, just a guess. I bet it rides like a Caddy though,huh?LOL | ||
| Blake |
Sag settings do not affect the softness of the ride. The spring rate doesn't change when you adjust preload/sag. Sag settings affect ride height and fix the ratio of the suspension's available rebound to compression travel as you ride down the road. For road use on a sport bike the total sag should generally be from 1/3rd to 1/4th of full suspension travel. For aggressive track use, total sag should typically be between 1/5th and 1/6th of total suspension travel. Why? On a relatively smooth race track, you just don't need much rebound travel. Large amounts of rebound travel are important for negotiating large bumps and/or holes in the road. On the track that extra rebound travel is wasted and as a result can cause the bike's suspension to bottom out during aggressive cornering, not to mention scrape hard parts. It can also leads to a front end that tends to promote wheelying, not a desirable thing on the track. | ||
| Ridrx |
Guess I should've clarified..."rides like a Caddy"...I was referring to the long(Ss) and low(50%sag)of the setup. I agree ride stiffness is dictated by spring rate and to a lesser degree compression settings. I've always heard that 1/3 of the total travel is the best *starting* point for road going sportbikes, conditions and rider style will require tweaking from there. | ||
| Jaimec |
Interesting. I'll double check, but the last time I looked, it was set exactly to spec for my weight according to the owner's manual and the service manual (same chart)... I do know that I've NEVER bottomed either end while riding (I've bottomed suspensions before and you never forget that feeling... OUCH!). | ||
| Slaughter |
You really ought to set sag with a couple buddies helping you. Measure it directly - lift the wheel off the ground, measure from some reference point to the axle... now sit on the bike with ALL YOUR GEAR on - at least put it in your lap - wiggle a bit. Measure to center of axle now. The difference is the "sag." I have used 35mm front and 25-30 rear as a starting setting. While the "Suspension Guide" in the link above is an awesome reference, I think they might be having you set a tad too much static sag. The Buell settings are only going to get you kinda/sorta close. Measuring directly will get you a little closer - but it's gonna take a couple buddies (usually costs you a six-pack - it's the going rate) (Message edited by slaughter on May 18, 2007) | ||
| M1combat |
+1 to what slaughter said... |
