| Author | Message | ||
     Gearheaderiko |
2 small holes is the dynamic timing mark (the mark you should see at idle or 1200rpm). Straight notch is TDC. | ||
| Joey |
Gadzooks! My manual must be wrong. It has a picture of the two small holes in the static timing instructions, and it says LED goes on as it centers in the hole. I'm going to read it again tonight to make sure I wasn't drunk or something at the time. Anyway, I'm going to start testing my ignition when I get home tonight. I was up last night rather late getting the software to hold the auto enricher on for so many ignition cycles, but that was on my test bench turning on LEDs. If I can get it to putt at all, I'll be happy! Thanks for all your help. I'll post an update next week or so. | ||
| Buellistic |
Joey: WELL !!!, WELL !!!, as "i" have been saying all along the FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL has many "ERRORS" in IT !!! If you are nt a MECHANIC and think out of the BOX, "KEEPS" you from DOING WRONG THINGS !!! AND know(SEE) the differance form "BUELLschitte and FACT !!! ONLY technicians AND THE unknowing BELIEVE THE factory service manual IS ALWAYS CORRECT !!! In BLASTing LaFayette | ||
| Joey |
That could explain why I'm getting no better than 65MPG and usually around 58MPG when I'm riding normally! My Blast is retarded!!!  I've been thinking it over in my tiny skull, and have come to the conclusion that if I'm right about what I read, then it doesn't make sense.  I did discover first hand what happens if you try to start the engine without putting the plug back in. Etching this into my brain: Vertical notch=TDC. Two dots=10 degrees before TDC. Once again, thanks for all your help! | ||
| Joey |
It runs! I went home and got my head out of my ass. Sure enough, the manual is actually correct. I need to stop doing those drugs! In my defense, there are no pictures of the static timing mark, but they describe it well enough when I read it slowly. I always wondered why my Blast didn't start for several cranks. I figured that it's getting fuel. Why didn't it start? I was setting the timing on my custom ignition, and when the LED went off, I heard a little POP Huff. That explains it! They don't want an ignition event when you're setting timing, so the ignition won't fire unless it sees starting speeds, and even then, after 2 cycles. My ignition started immediately! In fact, when I started messing with timing advance, I got an erroneous signal and a backfire right out the carburetor! Seems I had it about 200 degrees advanced.  That didn't make sense, so I held the starter switch. It went POW! putt putt putt ... | ||
| Swampy |
Congratulations! Now the fun begins! Keep us updated as you work along in this project. Write out your timing and injection thought process! (Message edited by swampy on March 24, 2007) | ||
| Ezblast |
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| Joey |
I just did the math. I cannot provide any advance with my hardware below 220 rpm, and I can not accurately provide advance above 19200 rpm. At about 4000 rpm, single digit rpm readings are no longer accurate. I think that gives me plenty of room for what I'm doing.  I've noticed that a change of 50 rpm between ignitions at idle is really hard to notice. The gap in the timing cup is slightly less than 60 degrees (out of 720 degrees of engine rotation), but chronologically it is about 65-66 degrees. That makes sense, though, because the engine is slowing down the most when it is reaching for TDC, which is where the gap is. I'm going to hook up the optical sensor to get accurate 5 degree readings and compare them with engine speed. I'm going to set it to spark where 10 degrees should be if engine speed was constant, and work from there. I just wish I had a timing light!  Who has a V-twin they'll loan me for when I want to get this working for the big Buells?  | ||
| Allenbassin |
stator problems again .I had replaced my stator about 100 miles ago and it has quit working again . Is this a common ocurance with these .I did notice the rotor had a drilled mark on it .Any way just thought I would ask this group. thank you} | ||
| Buellistic |
Allenbassin: What kills a rotor is heat !!! Bad regulator ??? Bad battery ??? TOO tight a primary chain ??? Wiring has not rubed bare some place has it ??? Have a BIG BUELL which uses the same stator and it has 96K miles on it and have never had any electrical problems ... Also tye wrap all my electrical wires, replace the battey on a regular maintence basics(keep on a trickle cahrger when not riding), and keep batery terminals tight ... Check www.BuellClub.com In BLASTing LaFayette | ||
| Swampy |
Thats right you need to check for a wire that is shorted to ground. I would scrutinize the wire protector that holds/protects the stator wire under the rotor, also look at the wire as it goes up throught the primary cover. Check the wiring harness pins, if they are loose that may cause things to heat up. A battery that is bad might cause it, anything that will cause too much draw. Good luck on it, let us know. | ||
| Allenbassin |
Thank for the feed back one thing I noticed is that the rotor was missing some small pieces of the magnets on the edge of two or three of them just small chips .And it was drilled my son thought it was to lighten it.The bike runs great it ran right up till 94 mph . Any way when I open it up again I will post what we find thank you . | ||
| Bonesdl1 |
Hi guys, I've got a problem. MY '05 Blast does not always stay running while in neutral with the kickstand down. This has only happened when it is first started, once it's been running it will stay running in neutral with the kickstand down. If I lift the kickstand up when I first start it it stay running though. Is this due to a faulty kickstand sensor and is there a way to bypass or disconnect it? | ||
| Swampy |
Bonesdl1, If it is in neutral and the kickstand is down and it dies, it is probably the neutral switch. One way to check it is with the bike running, kickstand up, clutch out in neutral, lean the bike over to the left side(shifter) if the neutral light flickers or goes out that would indicate the shift drum sliding away from the neutral sensor on the right side of the bike. It may be your shifter drum/shift detent retaining bolt. To check it you will have to remove your primary cover. Of course you will have already checked your neutral leads for grounding, abrasion, connector and the like..... To eliminate the kickstand switch(for diagnostic purposes only) you need to jump the leads together. | ||
| Bonesdl1 |
Thanks Swampy. I'll try that and see what happens. | ||
| Bonesdl1 |
Swampy, Checked all my wires and all are good, did the lean test and it stays running. Once I put the kickstand down it dies right out. So I guess that mean the kickstand switch is done. Now I just have to figure out where it is and get a new one. | ||
| Swampy |
Did you have it in gear when you had the kickstand down? If it is in neutral, it should stay running with the kickstand down and the clutch released. If it dies out while in neutral(the neutral light is on in the speedo?), you may have switched around your diode or have a bad diode. Sorry that is where I stop being help. I will check out the wiring diagrahm tomorrow when I get to work. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Before you buy a kickstand switch, cut the wires at the switch and join them together. That will bypass the switch, but that doesnt necessarily mean the switch was bad, the kickstand is now up all the time. This will circumvent the neutral switch. I have a spare kickstand switch I'll sell ya for $4 (+shipping), but personally I'd just splice the wires together and remember to put the kickstand up! (which I have and do). | ||
| Bonesdl1 |
It was in neutral with the light on. I dropped the kickstand and it stopped. So I think I'm going to go with Gearheaderiko's idea and just splice the wires together. Gearheaderiko... I'll keep you in mind if I decide to actually replace the switch. Now, can someone either tell me where the switch is or send me a diagram or pic of it so I don't cut the wrong wires. I don't trust my local HD dealer, they are never helpful when I ask questions about anything related to Buell's. | ||
| Xgecko |
hell you don't need to cut the wires...disconnect the switch at the connector....insert a U shaped piece of safety wire into the connector and then reattach it. Presto chango and not actual damage done | ||
| Swampy |
The switch is located on the kickstand bracket. Unplug the connector, fasion a piece of wire into a "U" shape and plug it in. Wrap new connection with electrical tape. Pull wire up to the underseat area and secure with tyewrap. Remove offending switch from bike. | ||
| Bonesdl1 |
Thanks for the help guys. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
You guys scare me! If the switch is no good (and we dont really know that). Pull the switch off the bike. Cut the plug off the switch with about 4" of wire attached. Strip the ends and connect them with a butt connector (easier to find than anything else). Plug the 'kickstand switch eliminator' back on the bike. Done. It worries me that a 'bent wire' fix will come loose and cause problems down the road. | ||
| Swampy |
Ha! I haven't even checked mine for a while. | ||
| Bonesdl1 |
Done and done. I just clipped and stripped the wires just below the clip and tied them together. Works like a champ. I didn't bother putting the sensor back on the bike though. I figured if it's not working right, why bother putting it back on. Thanks again for the advice guys. | ||
| Joey |
If the switch was bad, the bike would act like it's down no matter where it is, or like it's up no matter where it is. It sounds more like what Swampy said. Check to see why the bike does something in neutral that it should only do when it is not in neutral. | ||
| Ezblast |
Darn electrical gremlins - especially today! No blinkers - front or rear - I think the flasher went when the throttle got stuck - fixed - lol - I sure wish there was an automotive one that worked - I have found none so far - if anyone knows of one - let me know! GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Buellistic |
Ezblast: A failing or poorly maintained battery can fool you into thinking you've got all kinds of bizarre glitches with your electronics ... In BLASTing LaFayette | ||
| Ezblast |
Bike is fine, everything else is strong - I really don't think it is the Battery - but I'll do a charge check cold and running - the red bike's battery has always performed better than the black's new battery - it probably still does - lol - the SE Ignition having a heavier draw - leaving the battery at the Manual min. - I'm thinking short by burned out bulb took out flasher - I checked fuses though - they looked fine and I switched them around and same result - so fuses are ruled out also - the flasher shorted - how is my mystery that I will solve tomorrow before my ride - thanks though. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Highly unlikely that a low battery would disable the blinkers. Not impossible, but improbable as being the cause. |
