| Author | Message | ||
     Tpoppa |
So, I stripped one of the threads (on the primary cover) for one of the 3 bolts that hold the Clutch Inspection Cover in place. My question is how? The torque specs for those bolts are 84-108 in/lbs (7-9 ft/lbs). I've had the Clutch Inspection Cover off 4 or 5 times...each time I torque it to EXACTLY 100 in/lbs. This last time, I tried to tighten the bolt and there was no resistance at all. The threads were totally gone. When my dealer did my 1000 mile maintenance, they stripped 2 of these bolts. After much discussion the dealer replaced the primary cover. After that, I decided to do all my own maintenance. Has anyone else had this problem? I know that I followed the torque specs. My XB9S is still under the extended warranty (which I have never had to use), do you think there is a chance that Buell will replace the Primary Cover? | ||
| Lost_in_ohio |
Common problem. Helicoil it | ||
| Cereal |
Since you asked how: The aluminum threads can seize to the bolt and just come out with it when you unscrew it. Use antiseize on any bolt that screws into aluminum. I learned the hard way too. | ||
| Gentleman_jon |
Has anyone tried LOCTITE FORM-A-THREAD? It looks like it might work for a low stress situation like the inspection plate fasteners. | ||
| Tpoppa |
Does anyone know what size Helicoil fits that bolt? I use Antisieze when the manual calls for it. No mention of it for the Clutch Inspection Cover bolts. | ||
| Barker |
I think I picked up a 1/4 20 set for my clutch cover @ advance auto. Video explains helicoil. http://www.emhart.com/media/win/helicoil.wmv | ||
| Tpoppa |
what size inserts did you use? 1/4-20 x .25? 1/4-20 x .375? | ||
| Gentleman_jon |
Here is a post that includes some recent observations on the stripped threads problem. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/327 77/273365.html?1177394965 | ||
| Xbolt12 |
Time-sert has a 1/4 kit that works and will give you some extras left over. It's about 60 some bucks for the kit direct from their Reno facility. If you search threads (pun intended) with XBolt12 you should find my old post on the subject. I had the same experience as you. My strong suggestion is that you lower the torque setting after doing the repairs-I am pretty sure Buell goofed on the that one. Here's a trick I learned right before I sold my bike-there is really no need to pull the clutch inspection cover unless you are going to adjust it. Instead simply pull the primary chain inspection cover to adjust the chain and change the oil. If you drain it all and refill with exactly one quart for the primary, then you won't need to see the bottom edge of the clutch anyway. Al had an interesting theory on why the threads strip. He said something like that on the older Buells you have to be very careful to crack each screw loose and then remove them evenly, otherwise the spring will cause the bolts to rock in the threads and after multiple times it will strip the threads-that might be happening on XB's as well. Of course if you hardly ever pull the clutch cover again, you won't need to worry about it. I wouldn't go more than about 8.5 nm torque after the repair... | ||
| 2k4xb12 |
It happens whether the dealer works on it or not. I have performed every service on my bike, but one of my clutch inspection cover bolts stripped at 13,000 miles. I always use a torque wrench and never push the upper limit. I think the upper limit is a bit high considering that there is spring pressure against the cover. I'll have to install some Time-serts, but so far it's not leaking. Probably do it on the next service. | ||
| Fulgur |
The Locktite stuff works OK but I have only used it on bikes that are worth less than a new bolt (they still keep going for ever though, those old Japs don't they). Oh, and I don't think it is for bolts that you want in and out on a regular basis. I always use a bit of molly grease (on quite a few bolts) its cheaper than anti-seize (anti-seize is impossible to get round my way anyway). It works a treat. Try not to use copper-slip if possible round Aluminum too much (especially with steel fasteners) in my experience. I wish the Harley "mechanics" would stop it. You mix copper, iron, Ali and some road salt, add water to taste and what do you have???? A battery and corrosion. .....Fulgur. | ||
| Medic352 |
Use real live Heli-coils. Comes with the drill, tap, driver, and inserts. Green loctite them in(let it dry). This is a true repair. They are the original. The 1/4-20 x .25 will work, measure how thick the boss/casting in the primary case is. Loctite form a thread is a patch(not to be used regularly). Blue Loctite works as a locker and protectant. I tighten mine up snug by hand with a fold out torx tool. | ||
| Dcmortalcoil |
The recommended torque is much too high in my opinion. I just tighten them by feel. Never got loose doing just that. | ||
| Cmm213 |
I feel a lot of the torque values on the xb are to high, like on body parts and small fasteners. I follow the important ones but the others I hand tighten snug. Also watch out for the pinch bolt on the axel! I dont know if the casting was bad on my bike but my threads went to shit when I tightened it to spec. Also my torque wrench is right. |
