G oog le BadWeB | Login/out | Topics | Search | Custodians | Register | Edit Profile

Buell Forum » XBoard » Buell XBoard Archives » Archive through April 15, 2007 » Proper Installation of the front brake rotor. « Previous Next »

Author Message
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Olinxb12r
Posted on Thursday, April 12, 2007 - 01:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So I had a shop put my wheels back together after powdercoating, and now I've got a pretty previlant clunk under braking coming from the front rotor. I'm thinking that they installed the bearing, spring, spacer and/or bolts incorrectly. Can anyone tell me the correct order that these should go in to the wheels? I'm not sure how they did it, but I'm sure it was wrong because the clunking wasn't there before I started doing my winter mods. Thanks for the help guys!
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Gearhead998
Posted on Thursday, April 12, 2007 - 02:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

install springs into holes
install washers onto wheel
install bushings onto rotor
place rotor on wheel with marker dot facing outward, and next to the valve stem.
tighten bolts in a criss-cross pattern, and torque to 25-27 ft/lbs

hope this helps, I just did mine
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Kowpow225
Posted on Thursday, April 12, 2007 - 02:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The manual just states a criss cross pattern @ 26 ft pounds. Also recommend new bolts springs and washers on the re install. I would bet it's your bearings though. May even check to make sure the caliper is tight.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Smokescreen
Posted on Thursday, April 12, 2007 - 02:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Make sure the punch mark on the rotor lines up with the valve stem.

Smokescreen
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Mesafirebolt
Posted on Thursday, April 12, 2007 - 02:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

what is the punch mark for?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Olinxb12r
Posted on Thursday, April 12, 2007 - 03:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for the responses guys.

I'm not sure I'm understanding exactly what you are saying gearhead.

Spring first
Washers (ball bearing?)
Bushing (spacer?)

I'll look for the punch mark once I get the wheel and the rotor off.

As for the bearings, they are brand new. I bought a set from St. Paul HD off ebay before I did the powdercoating. Thanks for the help!
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Glitch
Posted on Thursday, April 12, 2007 - 03:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

what is the punch mark for?
Weight balance with the valve stem.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Gentleman_jon
Posted on Thursday, April 12, 2007 - 06:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The washers and the bushings are similar little square parts with a hole in the middle and rounded corners.

The washers are thinner, and go on in a groove in the wheel,under the rotor.

Then the drive bushing is put on, in the slots for them in the rotor itself. This allows the rotor to "float" a bit.

Then the bolts are installed and tightened as mentioned above.

I agree that unless there has been a major error in the install, ( not unusual at a Harley Dealer), there should NOT be a large clunk, or a small one either for that matter.

That is more likely caused by an improperly tightened caliper.

Don't mean to criticize in any way, but I recently enjoyed doing this very job myself after I had my wheels powdered. It only took about fifteen minutes or so. While I was at it, I also upgraded the brake pads.

I had the satisfaction of doing it myself, and I learned a little more about how my bike works. (I have learned quite a bit by now:-).

According to my log, I have worked on my bike over a hundred times, mostly routine maintenance and modifications. This has given me a much greater familiarily with my bike, and much more confidence in it when under way.

Almost all the normally used tools will easily fit in a Buell Sling bag.

Best part is, everything worked properly, and I didn't have to worry about whether or not someone else had made an error. Probably saved a few bucks as well.
« Previous Next »

Add Your Message Here
Post:
Bold text Italics Underline Create a hyperlink Insert a clipart image

Username: Posting Information:
This is a public posting area. Enter your username and password if you have an account. Otherwise, enter your full name as your username and leave the password blank. Your e-mail address is optional.
Password:
E-mail:
Options: Post as "Anonymous" (Valid reason required. Abusers will be exposed. If unsure, ask.)
Enable HTML code in message
Automatically activate URLs in message
Action:

Topics | Last Day | Tree View | Search | User List | Help/Instructions | Rules | Program Credits Administration