| Author | Message | ||
     Teddagreek |
I'm finally getting around to putting on my LSL steering damper. I finally jacked the bike and broke the bolt free.. Now I get rubber type pull on the bolt.. I'm afraid the bolt has fused its self in the tunnel of the Isolator.. I've pulled on the bolt a good bit but it seems all I'm pulling is rubber in the isolator.. I don't want to screw up my Isolator if I haven't already.. Any Ideas? | ||
| Teeps |
Have you tried heating the bolt, with a heat gun or hair dryer? W/D-40? | ||
| Gentleman_jon |
I would strap up the muffler, or jack it up, and then remove both the isolator and bolt from the bike. Then I would take it into my shop, (Kitchen :-), where I could heat it, or pour a little liquid wrench or similar product between the bolt and the metal sleeve in the isolator through which the bolt passes. Here is how I strapped up mine:  | ||
| Al_lighton |
The bike is hanging from the bolt, causing a small alignment bind. The bolt will be a lot easier to remove, and possible to install, if there is a floor jack under the engine and you slowly lift the engine to remove the load from it without going too far the other way. Should come right out once the angle bind is removed that way. Al | ||
| Spatten1 |
I had the same problem. I even pulled the bolts out of the engine so the bracket floated. No luck. I had to use an air impact on the isolator bolt. Had to buy a new set of allen sockets because I only had metric sockets. I'm confident that I caused damage to the rubber with the regular wrench and the impact, but had no choice. | ||
| Teddagreek |
Spattens describes it to the tee.. The steel sleeve that is molded into the front Isolater and the front Isolator bolt have fused... It is broken loose but when I wrench on it it turns the sleeve along with the bolt I jacked the engine,took to bolts out of engine last night in hopes of loosening it up... No luck I have one more trick up my sleeve. I put tape around the bolt so it made a cup and I sprayed in some penetrating oil in it to sit.. | ||
| Tigerbythetail |
hi...............as AL said put a jack under the lifting point of your exhaust (I presume you have the stock pipe) Than cut the rubber with a thin sawblade and remove the bolt if this is not already broken. Remove the isolator and bin it. The front isolater bold is anyway only sold as a set with the new isolater and it worth changing this to the new type. When you put the new one in use acid free grease and than this type of problem will not occur. I unscrew mine every 6 months for various reasons and have not had a problem. TLC for the bike. Greetings tiger | ||
| Spatten1 |
Man, I just remembered MORE: I had to grind down a 3/4" (I think it was 3/4) wrench and hammer it into the gap to hold the Steel sleeve in the isolator still. It was ugly. Scratched a lot of stuff, but was pissed off and just wanted to get it out. Then I used the impact with the mutilated wrench and finally got it free. It took me three days to pull my engine because of all of the frozen bolts and new tools I needed to buy. It only took aabout four hours to put back together. First time I can remember that assembly was much faster than dissasembly. | ||
| Teddagreek |
I finally got it out... Bolt is trashed but I think the Isolator should be good for a while.. What do you guys think? My bike is under warranty if I brought it in or called buell would they give me a replacement part. I know the Isolator has been changed a few times.. Does anyone know the latest part number  | ||
| Teddagreek |
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| Tigerbythetail |
hi...............consider yourself lucky to have got this thing out the way that looks. Bin the lot and buy new parts. And use the acid free grease. tiger | ||
| Gentleman_jon |
I would certainly go for a warranty replacement. The part you show is not the latest part, and was rather prone to failure. All the work you did on it certainly didn't help it. You get a new bolt with the isolator, whether you need it or not. Use some anti-seize on it. Buell saves weight. parts count and money by threading numerous steel bolts into the aluminum frame. I believe most, if not all of these will benefit from anti-seize. My islolator failed a couple months ago, the new part number was :L10501.02ABC. I believe the number of the older part you show might be: L 0501.02AB. Here is how they look. New one is on the right.  | ||
| Spatten1 |
Wow, that bolt is way worse than mine was. Jon, you are on it. I had many frozen and corroded bolts. Even the cylinder studs had a lot of corrosion on the threads. |
