| Author |
Message |
    
Gunslinger
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 25, 2007 - 07:49 am: | 
|
I have been having trouble with my 2000 Cyclone. It runs rough, and then when it gets hot it starts to misfire badly. Something I noticed was that it runs semi-smooth upright (with or without the sidestand down) but if I lean it over just a bit, such as leaning it onto its sidestand, it starts to sputter and misfire. Like I said, it does not seem to matter weather the sidestand is up or down. I have the factory service manual and can find no mention of a bank sensor. Is there one integrated in the ignition module? |
Sparky
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 25, 2007 - 12:42 pm: |
|
I don't think so.
When was the last time you serviced the ignition system? I'd be looking at the spark plug wires for age cracks or rub marks in the insulation and the terminals for corrosion or loose fitting. Also check the ignition wires from the key switch to the coil.
If all that checks out OK and it still runs rough, try bypassing the sidestand switch. The switch is notorious for causing ignition interrupts when it starts to go bad. Pull the connector off the switch and jumper the 2 wires from the harness.
If the bike runs fine at this point, and you want to keep the switch bypassed, then make the jumper a more permanent deal by soldering the wires together. Or if you want to keep it functional you can probably get a new sidestand switch. |
Gunslinger
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 25, 2007 - 01:58 pm: |
|
Changing the plug wires did not help. I will have to look at the wires from the switch again, but I did not see any problems. I will try wiring off the sidestand switch, but there are a lot of other symptoms that I did not go into on my first post. It mainly misfires when hot and at Interstate speeds. I changed out the relays. The coil tested out OK. There has been no evidence of plug fouling. The mechanic at the Buell dealer has had it for a few days and has not located the problem. Frankly, my recent experience with professional mechanics has only served to remind me why I prefer to do my own maintenance. |
Sparky
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 25, 2007 - 03:37 pm: |
|
Do you have a tach on the bike? This is a good indicator to monitor the ignition 12 VDC. If the ignition were to lose its 12 VDC momentarily, the tach would immediately go to zero even if the engine is coasting down.
Without a tach though, a voltmeter could be tied into the coil + post and battery - to monitor the ignition 12 VDC.
Assuming the ignition voltage is intermittent, there are other components to check besides the SS switch: RUN On/Off switch, ignition switch (you don't have a lot of keys hanging from the ignition key, right?), clutch lever switch, neutral switch, wires at the main breaker, fuses.
There is also an ignition rotor and a trigger module inside the ignition cover that might be suspect if the above checks turn out OK. The ign trigger module is something you can check yourself if the dealer didn't. Remove the ignition cover and squirt some refrigerant spray on the rotor while the bike is running. If it cools down the module enough to where it stops misfiring, you've isolated the problem.
Or perhaps you could swap in a known good trigger module. |
Gunslinger
| | Posted on Thursday, April 26, 2007 - 06:56 am: |
|
The timing module is my main suspect. The manual recommends using the refrigerant, followed by a hair dryer. to determine if it has become temperature sensitive. Still, this does not explain why it misfires when leaned.
I added the tach kit about 4 years ago, and it was working fine until now. When the bike misfires the tach jumps up. That is why I am pretty sure it is something in the ignition system.
The relay can be clearly heard tripping when the clutch or sidestand is moved. The relay is brand new, so that should not be it.
My primary list of suspects, coil, timing module, ignition module. The ignition module is the least likely. From what I understand, if it went bad the bike would most likely not run at all. The coil tested OK on the multi-meter. It could be some oddball glitch that was not covered in the troubleshooting section. That leaves the timing module as prime suspect. |
Sparky
| | Posted on Thursday, April 26, 2007 - 12:48 pm: |
|
OK, you've got a plan. You might try the refrigerant on the ignition module too if the timing module checks OK with the spray.
Have you tried the "jiggle the key in the ignition switch" test yet? Some early S1/S1Ws, with their side mounted ignition switches, would start having ignition cutout problems because their owners had a lot of keys dangling from the switch causing premature wear & tear on the switch contacts. |
Gunslinger
| | Posted on Thursday, April 26, 2007 - 02:07 pm: |
|
The M2 has the key-switch on the console. I have the key on its own fob. I will try jiggling it just to be sure. I installed the tach kit myself, so I may have messed something up. |
|
Troubleshooting (Poor Starting/Running/Handling/Ride Issues) »
Archive through May 25, 2007 »
Bank angle sensor