| Author | Message | ||
     Moondust |
Hi, First of all Im just changing my stock exhaust over for an aftermarket Remus exhaust. Im trying to get the belt tensioner off so I can get to the exhaust straps but its rock solid - ive undone the the 2 nuts but it will not budge - any tips ? BTW - I've followed all the instructions ie: loosening the rear spindle & pinch bolt to release some tension on the belt then - undoing the nuts on the belt tensioner assembly - so it just needs to slide off but its not going anywhere. I would go for yanking it off but I don't want to risk damaging the belt in any way. All you exhaust modders help another modder out  | ||
| Gentleman_jon |
If you have any tension at all on the belt, you won't be able to remove the tensioner. That's the bad news. The good news is that you don't need to remove it, if I recall correctly. You should be able to get at the straps by putting a socket on an extension through the holes in the tensioner. When you put the straps back on, you might want to have a friend help you, ( the straps are very stiff), and turn them around so you can access them from the left side in the future. | ||
| Chadhargis |
When I did my install, I didn't remove the tensioner. See my "how to" here: http://www.chadhargis.com/buellxb12x/race_kit_inst all.pdf Scroll down to the muffler removal section. | ||
| Mkenn |
The good news is that you don't need to remove it, if I recall correctly. You should be able to get at the straps by putting a socket on an extension through the holes in the tensioner. That is how I did mine. Don't take the tensioner off unless you really, really have to. | ||
| Jammaster |
I just put a drummer on my bike and removed the pulley by simply taking ALL the tension off the pulley. The tolerances between the pulley holes and the pulley studs are very tight so pulling evenly outwards is key in removal, Hope this helps! | ||
| 984gasm |
Mine was also "stuck on" at one point. I had to get it off by using a screwdriver from behind it (other side of bike) and hit lightly with a hammer to loosen it. Prob not the best way, but it worked and I didn't particularly care about scratching it since it was the back of the tensioner. | ||
| Moondust |
Ok - this is my workflow so far I've taken the chin faring - off - check I've loosened pinch bolt underneath swing arm - check I've loosened rear axle bolt - exactly 15 full turns - in order to release tension off belt - check so far tension is is still tight but there is a tiny bit of give - this bike is a few months old 07 model - maybe thats why ? Have removed the 2 nuts on what Im sure is the belt tensioner ( triangular plate holding wheel - in close up pic - correct me im wrong ) Now - I can see the 2 small nuts on long screws keeping the strap in place thru the wheel - so I presume those are the nuts i need to get to - which is why that silver plate mechanism - has to come away ? I think I might leave the pulley on as i probably have no choice anyway - so im off to get an extension in morning - any ideas on what size i need ?   | ||
| Moondust |
Jammster & 984gasm - did you loosen the real axle quite a bit to take off the tension ? I have turned the rear axle bolt a 15 full turns as instructed but its still pretty tight ;( Even If I get the pully off - I'll probably still need an extended socket for my rachet - right ? Wow Chadhargis - cheers for that pdf - its give me a little faith in this job now - I thought I was off - but your nicely written pdf seems to make it look straightforward. Will I need 2 pairs of hands for the straps to back on ? (Message edited by moondust on February 23, 2007) | ||
| 984gasm |
I probably did turned it 18-20 times, enough to make it loose enough. Like I said, mine for some reason was "stuck" on and had to hit from behind. So far everything you've done is correct. And you will not need two hands to put the straps back on, I just placed a block under the can to keep in place so I could go ahead and place the straps back in place. | ||
| 984gasm |
Also, you can use a block, or wrap some blunt object to not scratch the pulley if decided to go the route of knocking it off from behind. Hope this helps. | ||
| Moondust |
Cheers for the tips 984gasm - I wonder what size those nuts are - holding the straps in place - like I said even if I get the pully off - they still look quite difficult with a spanner or rachet that I have. It looks like an 11 - the 12 looks slightly too big & the 10 looks to small - any ideas on this ? | ||
| 984gasm |
can't remember off the top of my head. Once your pulley is off, it's not hard, just a pain in the ass if you don't have the proper tools, like a deep socket. Also, check this thread out, might help you.. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/327 77/259313.html?1172171995 | ||
| M1combat |
7/16" | ||
| Ronlv |
the other day i removed one pipe installed another one and then removed the one i just installed and put the old one back on all without removing the idler, pulley cover or loosing the rear wheel 1.remove the chin fairing, you may have to remove the pulley cover(if your running the stock one) 2.loosen the front clamp all the way until it comes apart 3.loosen the back clamps with extension and deep socket thru the idler and/or pulley cover area(depends what angle your clamp bolts are at), leave the back clamps together but real loose (they hold the back of the pipe up for you, like extra hands) 4.loosen the front bolt that connects to header, real loose 5.work pipe off, i used a rubber mallet to break it loose from the header tips when doing it alone; lay something like a towel underneath it so if it hits the ground it wont get messed up use the top of your foot underneath the pipe to help lower it (for same reason as tip one) leave back clamps on (real loose) to help hold the rear of pipe use foot again to help lift and hold the new pipe in place (foot makes for a great third hand) hope this helps later, ron | ||
| Moondust |
Cheers people! I've done the mod - but have done the straps up a lil' too tight & slightly deformed the can..where the mounting cradle sits on the can ..  On the other hand - apart from that - it sounds Awesome - exactly what I was looking for - that low down dirrrty bass  But Im a little gutted on the straps.    (Message edited by moondust on February 25, 2007) (Message edited by moondust on February 25, 2007) | ||
| Moondust |
Sorry for the double post of the pics here - those thubnails weren't workin at 1st & now they so there ya go.. (Message edited by moondust on February 25, 2007) | ||
| Moondust |
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| Kowpow225 |
NICE! For future reference, if you've got the tesion off the belt and the two nuts completely off of the idler and its still fightning you, its the studs that the idler slides over. Mine were a little crooked in sort of a V shape vs. II. I pinched them together with a pair of channel locks with rubber on the ends so I didn't booger the threads. | ||
| Trojan |
While you have the belt tensioer off, run a slightly oversize drill through the mounting holes so that you can remove the tensioner easier next time |
