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Mikef5000
| Posted on Thursday, December 28, 2006 - 12:10 pm: |
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You've got to be kidding me? HP-3001???? NO WAY! That's the same filter I use in my Audi and my old VW! Like you said... It's made for Ford 5.0L motors... but it fits in all Audi/VW 4 cylinder motors too! And now my Motorcycle?! That's Hilarious! I was going to call Jegs and try to get a deal on a carton of 10 of them since I go through a couple a year... now that I'm going through 3-4 a year I'm definitely going to call them! And about the Bulbs, after I posted I looked at it again and figured they probably weren't the factory type bulbs. Thanks! |
Djkaplan
| Posted on Thursday, December 28, 2006 - 12:18 pm: |
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That is pretty funny. You should tell people you only get vehicles that use that filter. |
Hootowl
| Posted on Thursday, December 28, 2006 - 03:17 pm: |
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Was the shifter recalled? It was replaced with a different design on later models, but was it actually recalled? |
Hootowl
| Posted on Thursday, December 28, 2006 - 03:22 pm: |
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It also looks to me like you have a complete D&D system there, not just a slip on. Those headers come all the way down in the front and turn under the bike before going into a crossover tube and finally into the muffler. The stock pipes don't do that. |
Chasespeed
| Posted on Thursday, December 28, 2006 - 03:53 pm: |
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Owl, the exhuast on both our bikes is a D&D Full System...you can tell by the collector...AND the pipes have a collar, and some weld on them right underneat the carb/Throttle body.
No, the shifter wasnt a recall, it was REVISED for 2001. I used it for a short time, and honestly, I kinda prefered the old style(bomerang style) Besides, if he has the D&D full exhaust, he HAS to have the updated hanger, wont mount without it.. You can see everything releveant in the pics, and Mike, you can also visually verify that you have the new hanger, if it looks like the one in the pics... Oh, well, time to go get the keys to the new shop hopefully.... Chase |
Bomber
| Posted on Thursday, December 28, 2006 - 03:53 pm: |
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shifter was redesigned, but not recalled -- no real flaw in the old-school boomarang style, jusyt a little less play (to my mind) in the newer style |
Hootowl
| Posted on Thursday, December 28, 2006 - 05:03 pm: |
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shifter- I didn't think so. Earlier posts indicated that it had been recalled. Exhaust- I know... I have one Good call about the hanger, he's got to have the Y. |
Djkaplan
| Posted on Thursday, December 28, 2006 - 05:26 pm: |
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I thought there was a shifter recall early in the 2001 production run... something about the linkage ratios not being optimum. I actually prefer the boomerang shifter (with bronze bushings installed), too. |
Mikef5000
| Posted on Thursday, December 28, 2006 - 07:01 pm: |
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I have the D&D full system? Cool! I checked the primary... and with the bike upright and COLD! (45 degrees outside... and the bike hasn't run today) the tranny fluid was there, but with that cover off... it was BARELY noticeable in the very bottom of the primary. Does that sound about right when it's cold? I could not get that little cover off to see the chain. I just couldn't break one of the little bolts loose! I'll try it again tomorrow when the motors hot. They should come out a bit easier. My shifter has a lot of side to side play in it. The problem seems to be right where it attatches at the foot peg. Is there something I can tighten there? Or a bushing or shim I can get? |
Hippyjoe
| Posted on Friday, December 29, 2006 - 02:54 am: |
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Primary sounds like it might be low. Might not hurt to check it hot, ya never know. Best bet might be to drain + refill, then you'll know it's right. And the right stuff. Can't go wrong w/factory lube IMO. Might have to put a small box wrench on the end of your allen key for leverage. Might help to give a slight tap w/hammer to seat key in hex b4 turning. Those bolts are loctited in place and can be hard to pop loose. Be careful not to strip the hex if you can. As I recall those shifters were kinda loose. Maybe that's why they replaced 'em. The '01-up work OK but look kinda strange. The Banke works best of all and you can get any single part you need for that one. Great company. |
Chasespeed
| Posted on Friday, December 29, 2006 - 05:08 am: |
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I thought there was a shifter recall early in the 2001 production run... something about the linkage ratios not being optimum. As maybe so. BUT, the Boomerang ran from 96-00 The 01 model got the revised linkage(funky looking one, kinda liek the one on the XBs). I am pretty sure there is a superceded part, for 01, BUT...cant be held fro certain on that. There was/is absolutely nothing wrong with the Boomerange linkage... Mike, the BEST thing you can do for your shift linkage, is get the Bronze OIllite bushings from Al @ American Sport Bike Other than that, go with what Joe recommeded, and then...... RIDE THE PISS OUTTA THAT THING.... Chase} |
Natexlh1000
| Posted on Friday, December 29, 2006 - 10:07 am: |
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I prefer the boomarang shifter because its pivot point is the foot peg. That means its movement matches your foot. I'm sure those bronze bushings are a good idea but the original plasic ones are $1. I replace mine about every 8,000 miles or so. Also, the paint on the frame behind the footpegs will jam your brake and shifter as it wears. I scraped my paint away there to fix this. To get those primary cover screws loosened, tap them with a small hammer and a brass drift. TAP not kill! There is probably some locktite on the threads. |
Mikef5000
| Posted on Friday, December 29, 2006 - 11:27 am: |
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Do the large bushings here go inside by the foot pegs? I'm not ready to ride the piss outa this thing quite yet. I'm still getting used to the handling and torque. I've ridden 3 times this week, but it hasn't been over 50 degrees any time... and the Dunlop Sportmax tires don't like the cold at all. I'm having a blast riding the thing normal though! I read that this bike has a 5 gallon tank with 1 gallon reserve, is this right? A couple days ago I went onto reserve, rode 15 miles to a gas station, then it didn't even take 3 and a half gallons. It worked out to 44 mpg for that tank though! WooHoo! |
Djkaplan
| Posted on Friday, December 29, 2006 - 11:45 am: |
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"I'm not ready to ride the piss outa this thing quite yet." You are far wiser than I will ever be. Stock, the 'Manta' tank came with a 2 gallon reserve. Some owners cut the reserve feed tube down for a smaller, perhaps more urgent, reserve range. |
Mikef5000
| Posted on Friday, December 29, 2006 - 02:23 pm: |
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2 gallon reserve??? Jeesh! That's almost as much as the regular tank! How difficult is it to cut the feed tube down? Does it unscrew out of the bottom of the tank or something like that? |
Djkaplan
| Posted on Friday, December 29, 2006 - 02:55 pm: |
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"Does it unscrew out of the bottom of the tank or something like that?" Yes, and yes. The tube you need to trim is inside a small cylindrical fuel screen sticking out of the petcock. It might be a good idea to get some Hylomar (fuel sealant) when you reassemble the petcock to the tank. |
Mikef5000
| Posted on Friday, December 29, 2006 - 03:20 pm: |
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Cool! I'll run it to the reserve a few more times before I mod it. If I can get 150-160 miles on a tank before switching... I'll be happy and not bother modding it. But if it keeps running out around 130-140 I'll probably go ahead and modify it. |
Mikef5000
| Posted on Friday, December 29, 2006 - 11:43 pm: |
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I worked on it a bit more today after I got home from work, and everything was warmed up... 1) There is plenty of tranny fluid in there... but man is it ugly. Definitely needs changing. 2) The primary chain was quite loose! I tightened it up a bit. The ugly tranny noise seemed to disappear after that, but we'll see for sure tomorrow. |
Bookyoh
| Posted on Sunday, December 31, 2006 - 04:03 am: |
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Mike: If your primary was running loose and you heard it rattling around at idle, don't be surprised if you see a few grooves cut into the primary cover. It's nothing to be alarmed about but that chain will hit the primary cover if too loose. On the fuel reserve question. My M2 used to have about a 1 gallon reserve. I cut off about 1/4" of the inlet tube and now it is about .5 gallon reserve. If/when you pull and reinstall the petcock, be careful not to over torque the bolts. Mark |
Mikef5000
| Posted on Monday, January 01, 2007 - 03:35 pm: |
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Wow... Almost layed it down today. Rode over a hundred miles, and at the very end we stopped at a coffee shop. Leaving the place (parked on the street turning into the lane) the back end kicked out tremendously. I thought it was going down for sure. I didn't let the clutch out to fast or anything, in fact it was all the way out before it even started to slide. Just giving it a hair more throttle in first gear... and the back tire just lost it entirely. It kicked out to the left, and I immediately pulled the clutch back in and stomped my right foot down on the pavement, which threw the bike back upright as it straightened out. I have Dunlop Sportmax D208 tires... and they are hard as rock below 50 degrees... at least until I ride a mile or two and warm them up. It was probably upper 30's (and dry) when this happened. Scared the hell out of some people on the sidewalk, and probably half the coffee shop that I was leaving. Definitely scared the hell out of me. (Message edited by Mikef5000 on January 01, 2007) |
Mikef5000
| Posted on Monday, January 01, 2007 - 03:58 pm: |
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Almost forgot... The rear shock (which I'm told is a recall item) let loose towards the end of the ride. It felt softer... and then when I got home it was quite noticeable. There was plenty of spring action and bouncing, but no more dampening. It looks like all the fluid leaked out the front. (Message edited by Mikef5000 on January 01, 2007) |
Natexlh1000
| Posted on Monday, January 01, 2007 - 07:14 pm: |
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You are right about those D208s. I have them too. VERY temperature sensitive. Be very careful with them. Mine dropped me in front of everyone at the dealership when it was under freezing. Not one of my best moments. |
Chasespeed
| Posted on Tuesday, January 02, 2007 - 12:24 am: |
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}You are right about those D208s. I have them too. VERY temperature sensitive. Be very careful with them. Mine dropped me in front of everyone at the dealership when it was under freezing. Not one of my best moments. Hahaha, thats no joke... Mine decided to let me down(though, it was my own fault), at the worst possible time... Just file that incident in your quick access thoughts...you will do ti again.. Then, you can work with it, and make it look good... Chase} |
Oldog
| Posted on Tuesday, January 02, 2007 - 02:06 am: |
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best way to deal with dunlops is to off them contis, metzlers, perelli, michellins, avons, thomahawks (re treads) are better ... |
Djkaplan
| Posted on Tuesday, January 02, 2007 - 07:21 am: |
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"It looks like all the fluid leaked out the front." When your bike loses rear damping, it makes it much easier to break traction. The lack of damping and cold tires definitely contributed to your slide. I'd be very careful until you replaced that horrible SRP shock. Once it starts leaking, it needs to go. See if the dealer is going to 'goodwill' you the replacement. It's an expensive proposition if they don't... the SRP shock isn't worth rebuilding. Tires are so subjective... I never thought the Dunlops were that bad. The 208's worked pretty good for me once they warmed up. I use Metzelers now, though. |
Mikef5000
| Posted on Tuesday, January 02, 2007 - 07:38 am: |
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I always thought that if a part was "recalled", the manufacturer payed for replacing it. Is that not the case here? |
Djkaplan
| Posted on Tuesday, January 02, 2007 - 08:08 am: |
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I still got a $100 "administration" fee when the shock was "goodwilled" to me. I'm not sure the SRP was ever recalled for replacement. It was recalled to install the ridiculous cage on the front shock eye and a shroud at the rear of the spring housing. Apparently, you could get the factory to replace it for free while the bike was under warranty the first year (extended warranties do not cover shocks), but afterwards, they could charge you a $100 to do it. That whole process left me with "bad will"... if you will, because my bike was two weeks into the extended warranty phase... the phase that didn't cover shock failure. Not sure what the deal is now... I'd call Buell customer service to find out. |
Chasespeed
| Posted on Tuesday, January 02, 2007 - 08:38 am: |
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best way to deal with dunlops is to off them contis, metzlers, perelli, michellins, avons, thomahawks (re treads) are better ... See, with that i will disagree. I actually LOVE to 208 qaulifiers.. Currently, thats not what I am running though..... The 207s are junk, adn should be removed immediately... MY 2 cents Chase} |
Jc000
| Posted on Tuesday, January 02, 2007 - 11:05 am: |
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Also, probably the single best thing you can do for your transmission is, do not let the bike fall over on the left side. Ever. Not on the kickstand, not pushing it in gravel, not lowsiding 'cause you lost it in a curve. Unlike big Harleys or UJM's, Sporty transmissions do not tolerate any kind of crashing on the shifter shaft. That's a little depressing… just found out the previous owner had done exactly that. I noticed a leak around where the shifter went into the primary cover. Turns out the bike HAD been dropped which also explained the clunky shifting. Only I hadn't realized how clunky the shifting had been! (Buell newbie here) Are there going to be longterm issues with the drivetrain now? I had problems going from neutral into first as well but that's been taken care of. Other than that I am loving my 2002 M2L. Can't wait to pick up the service manual to free myself from dealer dependence... |
Djkaplan
| Posted on Tuesday, January 02, 2007 - 12:07 pm: |
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The transmission was probably clunking brand new. I've crashed hard enough to break three boomerang shifter levers and really don't know of any reason why the Sportster transmission would be more any more prone to damage than any other transmission I've had apart. If there is a reason, I'd like to hear an explanation. |
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