| Author | Message | ||
     2cats |
Bike is a 2006 XB12Ss. I previously performed my first transmission lubricant check. Everything went fine. I bought a new torque wrench to better cover the in/lb range specified in the owners' manual, and torqued the bolts (why in God's name did they use torx heads?) in a cross pattern to 96 in/lbs (right in the middle of the specified range), per the owners' manual. I went to check the lube again today, and the torx bit tore through the head of the bolt like it was aluminum, without turning the bolt. 1) Is the torque spec wrong? 2) I sized the bolt as a T-27. Was I wrong? 3) Is the bolt aluminum? Many thanks, 2cats | ||
| Reepicheep |
96 in/lbs sounds pretty high, but I don't have the manual in front of me. I was thinking something like 20 in/lbs. It is a T-27, with locktite blue on the bolt threads. The bolt is steel, it threads into aluminum, but those torx heads strip pretty easy if you don't have expensive torx drivers... my cheap drivers made a mess, better ones seem to hold up and work well. I juse a T-27 screwdriver, generally soaked in oil by the time I am ready to reassemble, and just sock them in as tight as I can get them by hand. They have always came back out fine. If you drill off the heads, you should be able to remove the cover, and have a decent amount of shaft left to get at with vice grips. Once you remove the load they should come right out. | ||
| Ragnagwar |
When you get them out throw them away and replace them with the Stainless Steel button heads that use an allen wrench. IIRC they are 5/8" long. | ||
| Bomber |
Torx ARE a sign of the coming apolcolypse -- if there are any left on my bike, it's only because I haven't found them yet mumble grumble | ||
| Road_thing |
My torx haiku. Again. rt | ||
| Bluzm2 |
The bolts are 1/4-20 x 3/4" Just bought 4 of them... | ||
| 2cats |
Well, thanks so much folks. This is just one of the reasons why I hate working on vehicles. I'm pretty close to the 5,000 mile service, and I think I'm just going to hand this problem over to them. I will probably try to source replacement bolts with a more sensible head, and supply these to the dealer. | ||
| Blake |
Also, it's best to only slightly break loose (1/16th turn or so) each of those three bolts/screws then loosen each just a little at a time until all are totally loose. If you loosen the first two too much or remove them before trying to remove the last of the three, it can be put in a bind and be very difficult to remove without stripping the head. Suggest using a T-handle wrench or a 1/4" drive socket wrench with a bit driver so you can push in hard while loosening and still get the torque needed to break the torx fasteners loose. Allen heads do seem to be less troublesome though.  | ||
| Bigdaddy |
Torx sux. Once they come out (I didn't have the replacements last night) they should be tossed. G2 (Message edited by bigdaddy on October 05, 2006) | ||
| Reepicheep |
Blake, that's critical advice for the tubers, but on the XB's they designed around it. No matter how sloppy I am about putting them on or off, I have not been able to get that cover to get crooked enough to sized up those bolts. Now on my Cyclone... those would stick in half a heartbeat. | ||
| Nutsnbolt |
Yeah, for every Torx I take out, I put in an Allen, if possible. I have completely destroyed 4 Torx Sockets trying to take my Belt pulley off. Theyre a T45 if I remember right. Haven't found a suitable repalcement for those, yet. So, they're still being used. My sockets by the way... 1 Snap on, 2 Craftsman's. I was starting to think that they were welded on. Don't get me started about the whole use of RIVETS, also. 2 ridiculous design flaws. Rivets and Torx Mark |
