| Author | Message | ||
     Motogeek |
OK, I'm confused about installing grip heaters (the kind that go under the grips). It's hard enough to put grips on over the bare throttle and handlebar, without having to worry about getting it over the grip heater w/o tearing or ruining it. How is this done? Are these easy to wire up? I'm fairly mechanically inclined, but hate dealing with electronics. However, I hate paying a dealer $80/hr even more, so how tough are these to install? Last, I've got bar end mirrors I won't give up - so, do I have to drill new holes in the new bars (Renthals) and try and fish out the wires? Maybe I should just get another Beemer with heated grips and ABS... TIA, - Scott | ||
| Ikeman |
I'm working on getting my Polly heaters installed right now. They are the cartridge type that go inside the handlebar. I'm a little confused as to where to ground them at the moment. Got them from DaveS - $29.95 shipped to my door. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
I grounded mine to one of the bolts that attaches the front faring section. I used the one on the top left side. | ||
| Ikeman |
Thanks FB. I was thinking of using the bolt for the horn bracket just didn't know if any old bolt under the windscreen would work. I'm off to finish my install... | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
I installed an "O" connector and bolted it down. | ||
| Henrik |
M-geek; I use rubbing alcohol as "lubricant" when I push the grips onto the bars. But then I also secure the grips using safety wire and not glue ... so maybe that won't work for you. As far as getting the grips on and off, compressed air blown in under the grip works wonders, so maybe that'll be of help to you. Henrik | ||
| Javadog |
Ike- Let us know how you like the Pollys. Are they warm enough on low and do they get too hot on high like I've heard some do? Also, how difficult are they to install? | ||
| Jackbequick |
Another good bet for getting grips on the getting them to stay on is the wife's aerosol hair spray or clear lacquer. Spray a little in the grip and it acts like a lube as it slides on. Then let it dry and it acts like an adhesive. To get it off later, you can break it loose by twisting at the inner (opening) end of the grip to break the seal. For really tough ones, a couple of squirts of WD-40 between the grip and bar and the twisting works wonders. Jack (Message edited by jackbequick on November 03, 2006) | ||
| Fastfxrs |
Kimpex grip heaters are a pretty easy install also. They are a thin plastic grid that wraps around the bar on the left and the plastic throttle sleeve on the right. I was surprised how easy the grips (I was able to save my stock ones) slid on over the grids. They get very hot on high. The wind deflectors on the uly really help too, allowing riding in the 20s F with warm hands. Good luck with whatever heater you choose. They should be standard equipment anyway. Tim | ||
| Ikeman |
Javadog, I didn't get them done last night but I should tonight. I may be heading north of State College, PA early tomorrow morning which is about 2.5 hours or so away. I'm thinking that should be a good test - supposed to mid 20's tomorrow morning. | ||
| Dano_12s |
I use Oxford wrap on grip heaters.They work well.Can't leave them on constant...Too hot. | ||
| Pso |
I put the polly grips on. Took about 1 hour. I worked slowely. They work great. The high gets them hot quickly and then I switch it to low to keep the heat. I was running in about 45 degree weather with light weight gloves, also switched to heavyier gloves when it started to get dark. I also have the heavy bar end weights (hvmp?)on and there is no problem with the polly grips, and the bar ends. I used the series of pics posted on this board for the install, and used the cig. lighter wireing to connect through. | ||
| Red_chili |
Note, I remember reading somewhere that Buell recommends taking the grounds of accessories directly to the negative ground point of the battery. It's because of the aluminum frame, electrolysis, and other black arts. It's a good idea. | ||
| Pso |
I used the negative lead from the cig lighter. Is this not a good idea? I was wondering if I did soemthing wrong when I read everone saying they used a bolt for the negative, but I chose to pretend I didn't read it.I also have a fuse block that I use which is relay connected to the ignition but I just use a bolt for the negative on the frame. I use this block for heated clothing, radar detector, piaa lights and other goodies as I see fit. Should I get a negative grounding plate and hook the plate to the battery and my aux stuff that I have on the fuse block to the negative grounding block? | ||
| Michael1 |
I have the symptec's on my Uly and am very happy with them. I used the standard ground up front behind the little flyscreen to the frame. I also used grip glue that lubricates to slide the grips on them it sticks. I found that when using hair spray on the heated grips, the grips can walk around when hot. The symtec's (from CASporttouring) includes instructions and are very easy to put on. I wired mine to the cig lighter and drilled the left side of the fairing to install the switch. The wires, I just ran parallel to the wiring already there. You would never know the heater wires are there, unless you are looking for them. Bar end mirrors... No need to drill for wiring. Just pop them on. | ||
| Red_chili |
If you used the ground that Buell used I cannot see how you would go wrong. If you have other aux stuff just grounding to the frame, you can set a Euro-style barrier block (enclosed in nylon, I bought some at Radio Shack the other day), bring the grounds together in the bonnet, and carry a somewhat fat ground wire to the same point the battery grounds at. Think 'aluminum wiring in a '70s house'. Good to avoid. Grounds are funny things. They can work great for a while, then corrosion starts working its magic and you get really strange stuff happening - or not. Just good practice to do large-ish grounds to a single point. | ||
| Michael1 |
Dielectric grease helps prevent corrosion as well. I use plenty of that stuff around my electrical connectors. Not enough for contamination to adhere to it, but enough to prevent the corrosion of the touching bare metals. Just a good tip... | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
I believe that some of the front accessories are already grounded to a location in the front faring area. My thought is that if it is good enough to work there, it is good enough to work for accessories. The battery grounds to the tail section which grounds to the frame. If there were a problem, I'd suspect that we would see a different configuration. Check the battery box where the negative ground is. It is simply grounded to a bolt on the rear sub-frame. | ||
| Blake |
"I use rubbing alcohol as 'lubricant' " Though the urge is great, I shall not comment. I am obviously maturing.  | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
I am obviously maturing.  | ||
| Bienhoabob |
Here's what I purchased. http://www.aerostich.com/catalog/US/Aerostich-Warm -Wrap-Grips-p-16731.html You don't need to mess with new grips, wiring etc. and they can be transferred to another bike or removed come trade-in time. I plug them into the battery tender connection and go riding. (Message edited by bienhoabob on November 04, 2006) | ||
| Gtmg |
Beinhoabob, Interesting option. Any loss of control. How about in the rain do they suck up water?? | ||
| Bienhoabob |
Gtmg: The wraps are thin. I didn't notice any discomfort due to the larger diameter of the grips w/wraps. I guess one drawback would be the routing of the wires each time you use them. I'be been routing the wires under the tank bag, between a tank pad and the bag. I take them off every time I'm away from the bike for a period of time. They are only secured with velcro and the outlet plug, and could be tempting to the underworld. I haven't been caught in the rain as of yet, so I can't comment on how waterproof they are. I would hope the manufacturer did their homework and prepared the wraps for the real world. | ||
| Coolice |
Very interesting. Bienhoabob how are you doin? Never did hook up for that ride yet, I ride whenever so if we get a fair weekend in the next month or so give me a shout. Also keep us informed of these heaters. | ||
| Guybones |
Bob - did you get the standard or long wrap grip? Thanks, GM | ||
| Marc |
I installed the polly heaters about a month ago on My 06 Ulysses. I use them a lot as I live in Chicago and it's getting colder here. Very useful product and a great upgrade as it has extended the riding season for me. My post below has quite a few hints on the Ulysses install for the Polly Heaters. Someone asked about the ground connection point in a post above... The positive for the heaters is attached to the 12V Accessory Jack positive and the ground (negative) connection point I chose was the same mounting point the horn is connected to. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show .cgi?tpc=142838&post=755370#POST755370 | ||
| Bienhoabob |
GM, I purchased the standards. The long grips must be for beach bars, or ape hangers. I just went out to the garage and it looks like I also have an extension added to the plug. It's a little over 2' long cord. Can't for the life of me, remember if it came with the setup or not. Memory is fading. Coolice, I was planning to meet you at the turkey testicle festival, but the plans fell though. Maybe next year. I'm still into the long distant rides. The MTF group is planning regional saddle sore rides. Schedule should be out in a week or so. There should be 1,000 milers in Ill. and Wis. if you're interested. Bob |
