| Author | Message | ||
     Gentleman_jon |
When first I got Lil’ Blackie, there was ever so much to do. The little darling had been modified and abused by a previous owner, and what with a chain conversion, rather bizarre gearing, and an inner tube in the front wheel, there was a lot to think about. As I got used to the bike, and started repairing and modifying it, there was one niggling defect that I simply could not understand: when going over a set of long dips on a slowly undulating road, I would hear a sort of a low growl, that I thought might be caused by the chain drive which does not have the conventional cush drive. However, it only occurred rarely, and I didn’t never did figure out what it was. At the recent Open House at Liberty HD, in Rahway, New Jersey, (a wonderful event by the way), one perspicacious Buelligan pointed out that my front engine isolator appeared to have failed. Anthony, (Mutation Racer), took a look and offered to repair it under warranty right there and then. How cool is that! Unfortunately the part was not in stock, having been sold earlier in the week. I decided to ride home, some 125 miles, and fix it myself, as I thought that the isolator was only a $50 part, I didn’t fancy a 250 mile round trip back to Liberty for such a small job. When I got home, I discovered that the part was on national back order. If I understand it properly, the isolator is on its third version, and now has a new name, “ Front Isolator Kit”, part number, and a new price, $72, and comes complete with the front isolator bolt, which cost about $14.00 and will not be necessary in most instances. This seems to be an unwelcome trend in the Buell parts business to bundle parts unnecessarily at great expense to the owner. Another example of this was recently reported by someone who needed a kick stand bolt, and was told he would need to buy a new kick stand as well. I do hope I am wrong about this. Perhaps Daves can explain the situation. The original part number on my 2004 XB 12S was L0501.02AB, the new part has a different part number, L10501.02A8. Since these parts are not in a consecutive series, your parts person may not find the part, even though they actually have it in stock. The photo shows the new and old parts, note the new part has a B mark on the casting and it is a slightly different casting, and with a different rubber insert. In the photo the new casting appears to be thicker, but that is an optical illusion due to the camera angle.  Old,(lef) and New,(right) Isolators In any event, after a number of calls to the usual suspects, I located the “kit” at Stone Mountain HD, home of the 3%er’s and led by the redoubtable “Clown”, Cameron Ayres. The install was a piece of cake, took about a half hour for four bolts. Would have taken a pro about ten minutes. The only trick part, for me, was jacking up the motor while the isolator was removed. The shop manual suggests jacking the motor up with a jack under the front jacking point under the muffler. I don't have a jack that would fit under the muffler, so I used a ratchet strap that I use to tie the bike on the trailer, to hold the engine UP to the frame. See photo.  It seems to me that this part, like the 03, belt was not properly designed in the first place, and therefore, if not the subject of a recall, might easily have been the subject of a service notice. It has not been, as far as I know. Since this part “fails safe”, unlike the 03 belt, I believe that some otherwise astute Buelligans, may have failed to notice that their isolator has failed. I know I did.  | ||
| Ds_tiger |
Well thought out and a good post- that is the stuff that makes this Forum a good place to read/ review Thanks | ||
| 99buellx1 |
Excellent post. | ||
| Brineusaf |
Worst Post Yet (didn't want to conform) | ||
| Jon_s |
I discovered earlier this week that mine also had failed. I posted this in the Knowledge Vault together with the fact that the replacement is an updated part. My kit came with two isolator bolts, one with a rubber ring, the other without. I used the one with the ring but now, having looked at a 2007 model, I think the other bolt should have been used instead. The service manual recommends using anti-seize on the bolt. The original, installed in the factory, was as dry as a bone. I wonder if this contributed to the early failure (7500 miles)? | ||
| Gentleman_jon |
Jon My kit came with one bolt, without the rubber ring. I just took the ring off my old bolt, and glued it in place. I wonder what the purpose of the rubber ring is, and why I only got one bolt ? Anyone know? Kyle- Very funny. I have always maintained that only thing that all Buelligans have in common is that they are first and foremost individualists. | ||
| Jon_s |
I suspect that the ring prevented metal to metal contact with the old isolator. On the new version, the rubber covers the bottom edge of the isolator and the ring is no longer necessary. I'm not planning on removing the ring. I can't see it doing any harm to the isolator. Was the bolt on your bike dry? | ||
| Gentleman_jon |
Jon, My bolt was dry too. I can't imagine why they call for anti seize, because there is no steel to aluminum contact to cause corrosion, and in fact my center isolator bolt came out easily, and clean as a whistle. I have found some conditions on the Buell such as the top mount of the rear shock, and the axles of course, where steel bolts screw into aluminum resulting in severe electrolytic corrosion, and the definite need for anti seize. In the case of the shock mount, a nut would have been a good idea, but on the other hand, I do applaud Buell's successful effort to reduce the part count on the bike. I do believe that in the case of the isolator bolt, there is a steel insert in the frame, a technique that might be used elsewhere where on the bike where steel is threaded into aluminum. | ||
| Irideabuell |
So, is this something that should be replaced under a recall condition, or should you simply ask your dealer for the replacement part? | ||
| Gentleman_jon |
There has not been a recall on this part, and I would bet there will not be one. However, if it fails while under the warranty period, it will be replaced free of charge by the dealer. It is a very simple repair, takes about a half hour. If it is the original part, and you are out of warranty, I wouldn't be surprised if Buell will still stand behind it. If yours has failed, call your dealer, make an appointment, and make sure he has the part: they are currently on national backorder. Harley/Buell warranty precludes just giving the owner the part. Too simple and straightforward I guess, and just the kind of sensible business practice that gives corporate lawyers hives. The part must be installed by a dealer, even though it might cost the Motor Company and the customer more money. This is the Motor Company way. Since I live 125 miles from the closest Buell dealer that I will allow to work on my bike, (Liberty HD in Rahway, NJ), I end up doing most of my warranty work myself. Luckily, there isn't very much to do, so I spend most of my wrench time just maintaining and modifying my bike. And I quite enjoy doing it. | ||
| Jon_s |
Though I ordered the part (and was prepared to pay for it) the local dealer covered it under warranty. I replaced the faulty one and gave him back the original. We're all happy. | ||
| Gentleman_jon |
Stick with that dealer. | ||
| 147db |
My front isolator mount failed 2 weeks ago or so... I've replaced the kit with the new one too, some pics on my XB9SX's web page. | ||
| Shea |
I agree, I am also not happy with Buell putting all of these parts in kits. I just went through this when replacing my clutch just a couple months ago. All I needed was the clutch and went through some trouble because the dealer was giving me the old numbers and not the new ones. Luckily Daves had the jump on things and got me the appropriate parts, but had to send it in the kit. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
How do you know if your isolator has failed? | ||
| 984gasm |
Yeah, is there a tell tale sign of failure, or is it just something you feel in the front end? | ||
| Jon_s |
You'll have to inspect it. I didn't notice any change in handling nor was there any evidence of increased vibration. The only thing I felt was a shudder when applying the brakes. Even that was not consistent. If you look at the isolator you'll know immediately if it's failed or about to. Check the photos out in the Knowledge Vault. | ||
| Midknyte |
is there a tell tale sign of failure The isolator bracket will appear to be resting at the bottom extent of the [vertical] bolt, rather than suspended in the middle. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Thanks Midknyte, I have always been bothered by the appearance of the isolator and bolt. It looks like they didn't get it snugged in all the way. I was having a shudder that was caused by a combination of three things: Horn hitting against the inside of the front bodywork, A hot spotted front rotor, and A set of loose head bearings. The shudder during braking can have several causes. | ||
| Hammer71 |
Irideabuell.... Yours is fine, I took a gander at it while we had the nose off the ground, besides I would have felt something when I "accidentally" wheelied your bike. | ||
| Etennuly |
Ft_bstrd I have had those same three symptoms, They fixed the horn brkt. I'm adjusting the head bearings this weekend, and the dealer said they bled the brake to cure the shuddering...duh??? That didn't work. The rotor is hot spotted, but so were all of the used Buells in the store and on the parking lot. Did they replace your rotor? Did the combination of all three cure the shudder? | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Etennuly, They tightened the head bearings and replaced the brakes and rotor (under warranty, THANK YOU BUMPUS HD, MURFREESBORO, YOU FRICKIN' ROCK!). I fixed the horn myself. It's a bad design. the problem I have is that the space behind where the horn mounts is where I have my HID ballast. After they replaced the rotor and brakes and tightened the head bearings, I have had no issues. I fear, though, that the hot spotting problem is going to come back. The problem seems to be caused by a build up of brake dust on the rotor causing the brakes to "grab" where the friction on the rotor changes. I understand that the aftermarket Lyndall pads cure that problem. I haven't had an issue, but if it comes back, I will replace the stock pads with these. (Message edited by ft_bstrd on October 02, 2006) | ||
| Etennuly |
Great! That is what I was thinking might cure it. Thanks. | ||
| 12r |
 | ||
| Typeone |
is there a tell tale sign of failure The isolator bracket will appear to be resting at the bottom extent of the [vertical] bolt, rather than suspended in the middle. with increased vibration as well (obviously from that pic). when my first one failed i went nuts wondering why the vibes increased so much, first thought primary chain. comparing to an XB at the dealer it was clear the isolator was toast. the rubber collar also started melting, very odd. my second one is on its way out now too, the top started tearing soon after it was installed.... VERY happy to see the new part, looks beefier, fingers x'd the third ones the charm. 147db also has great pics comparing 05 vs 07 and new installed... http://www.147db.com/xb9sx/2007vs2005-front_isolator.jpg http://www.147db.com/xb9sx/2007-front_isolator.jpg (Message edited by typeone on October 03, 2006) | ||
| Skully |
and the dealer said they bled the brake to cure the shuddering...duh??? That didn't work. The rotor is hot spotted, but so were all of the used Buells in the store and on the parking lot. Did they replace your rotor? I too went through all of this until talking to Al at American Sport Bike. Please see http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show.cgi?tpc=6817&post=654068#POST 654068 If you have any questions, please drop me a line. | ||
| Skully |
BTW - Thanks for the photos guys! | ||
| Etennuly |
Checked it out...looks like the plan. I just wanted to give HD a chance to fix it while it was in for a clutch cable. Oh well... I can do it..... Thanks! |
