| Author |
Message |
    
Adamblast
| | Posted on Wednesday, December 13, 2006 - 12:24 am: | 
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Hi everyone,
This is my first post on this site so if this question has already been asked, go easy on me.
First, when I start up my blast it idles fine but if I let it sit and idle, the idle will slow down until the engine dies.
Second, When I go shift into first from neutral, if I don't do it fast, there is this grinding noise. Can anyone tell me what that is and how to fix it.
Oh, other than those problems the blast runs fine. |
Justin_case
| | Posted on Wednesday, December 13, 2006 - 08:43 am: |
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Idle mixture adjustment and clutch adjustment. |
Adamblast
| | Posted on Wednesday, December 13, 2006 - 10:09 pm: |
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Should I adjust the clutch cable or the clutch in the transmission? |
Buell920
| | Posted on Thursday, December 14, 2006 - 08:02 am: |
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adjust the idle only not the mixture screw. the idle screw is the set screw that is located at the point where the thr cable connects to the carb. turn it out about 1/2 turn and test idle when warm. as for the grinding, thats norman on blast models. a clutch adjustment at the cable and the hub may help a little. |
Jlnance
| | Posted on Thursday, December 14, 2006 - 12:45 pm: |
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Adam, welcome to Badweb.
The Blast has an autoenricher which will cause it to idle fast when it is cold. You will hear the idle slow down when the bike warms up and the autoenricher turns off. Something is wrong (idle to slow?) but even after you get it fixed, you will still hear the bike slow down when it warms.
I doubt anything is wrong with your transmission. They clunk and grind. It's a very tough transmission, you're not going to break it. There is a way to make the N->first transition a little smoother, but I can't quite remember what it is.  I think what you do is blip the throttle to raise the RPMs (a little) and then let the engine return to normal idling speed. Then pull the clutch and shift into first. The part I'm not sure about is whether you pull the clutch before or after the throttle blip. I think I have it right, but you can try it both ways. It's really only necessary at the beginning of the ride.
What all that does is break the clutch plates loose. When the bike is cold, they tend to stick together even when the clutch is pulled. After the transmission oil gets warm, that isn't a problem any more. |
Adamblast
| | Posted on Thursday, December 14, 2006 - 09:38 pm: |
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Thanks for the help guys. By the way, I changed out the air filter and that actually made it run better and I adjusted the clutch cable some and now the bike is problem free. |
Jlnance
| | Posted on Thursday, December 14, 2006 - 10:29 pm: |
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Glad it's running well. Have you owned the bike since it was new? Has it had it's regular services done? |
Adamblast
| | Posted on Saturday, December 16, 2006 - 04:32 pm: |
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I actually just bought the bike two weeks ago tomorrow. It has about 13000 miles on it. The guy I bought it from says that he is the second owner. He told me that the bike just had a new electronic choke put on it. Is this even something on the motorcycle?
Any ways, when I got the bike I did the usual new owner things like change the oil, change the transmission fluid, change the brakes, which were almost gone, and change the spark plug.
I don't think that this bike has been serviced because:
*He had the wrong spark plug in it
*when I drained the transmission fluid, only about a cup of fluid came out.
*Also I think he didn't have the right oil in it.
I have one other concern that I noticed yesterday. Around the clutch inspection plate there seems to be a very minute amount of transmission fluid. I did not change the rubber gasket when I took it off. Should I have or is this something that is normal? |
Dhalen32
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 19, 2006 - 01:24 pm: |
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Adam:
The automatic choke is not electronic but actually a wax capsule that melts as the engine warms. As already stated, when cold you should expect a fast idle that will slow down as the engine warms.
The older models definitely clunk when engaging first gear after idling in neutral. Try squeezing the clutch and blipping the throttle to loosen the clutch plates prior to shifting from neutral to first. The latest 2007 bikes we got for Rider's Edge training seem to shift much more smoothly. Perhaps they have also benefited from the switch to dog rings in the gearbox.
Dave |
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