| Author | Message | ||
     Mabueller |
So with all this talk, what is the hp gain in going to the bolt-on 515 kit? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Well, with an approximate 3% gain in displacement, but with a better piston (matched) and cylinder (better heat transfer), maybe 2 or 3 horsepower! Just a guess though. | ||
| Ezblast |
Thats just the piston/cyl kit, not a bad price per hp, A total stage 3 and a hotcam kit and a good exhaust would net you more - lol GT -0 JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Mabueller |
2 to 3 hp for the 515 kit? OK then, what does it take to gain say, 10 hp? Winter is coming here in the East ... . | ||
| Buellistic |
With Laughing Gas you can get 20 HP per shot !!! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
600cc big bore with mild cams and head work. Or the 515 with stage 3 head & hot cams (as EZ previously posted). Its easier to obtain with the 600cc (but the 600cc is more work). (Message edited by gearheaderiko on August 28, 2006) | ||
| Ezblast |
The stage3 hot camed kits at 515cc - the best bang for the buck experience you'll find - though pricy - it does quickly turn the bike into a different bike - off the line is much more and passing is no longer a thought, mucho fun - especially combined with the right exhaust. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Blake |
I'd be surprised if the 515cc kit including 10.5:1 compression ratio pistons and matching (squish band) head-work (stage-2)followed up with some expert dyno tuning wouldn't get you 10 HP over stock. But are you really after peak HP or would you prefer mongo gains to mid-range and low end? Just talking HP increase can lead to disappointing performance. Decide what exactly you are after and consult your favorite performance shop. I recommend Cycle Rama and Revolution Performance. They will consider the total package and advise you expertly. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Great advice Blake. IMHO just throwing in the B50 cams with some springs and getting the max rpm's up to 7500 really makes it a nice running bike, but the actual HP gains are minimal! | ||
| Ezblast |
And perhaps 1.75 rocker arms - we'll see! GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Mabueller |
Well I asked the folks at NRHS and they suggested the following hp figures: About 40 with stage 2 heads with the 515 About 45-50 with stage 3 heads with the 600. As to the question of mid-range or hp gains ... I don't really know. I bought the bike with an after market exhaust and recently read that if the bikes makes de-acceleration burble it may mean the bike has the wrong jets. So that may be the next thing to try. Just looking to make it comfortable on the smaller highways around here. Good information to consider. How do you adjust to allow 7500 rpm? | ||
| Ezblast |
Burble good, popcorn bad. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Blake |
Pretty sure that 45-50 HP will also require new cams. Please check with Revolution Performance and Cycle Rama for your performance upgrade work. They are active advisors here and also pay to keep the place up and running. | ||
| Mabueller |
This technical jargon has me scratching my head ... . | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Mabueller: Higher than stock rpm takes changing the valve springs and replacing the ignition module with a Sreaming Eagle or Crain. The stock valvetrain should be good to 7500rpm, except the valve springs. As you've already done, double check with the pro's. EZ:"IMHO just throwing in the B50 cams with some springs and getting the max rpm's up to 7500 really makes it a nice running bike, but the actual HP gains are minimal!" I'm really just talking about that it doesnt take much money to make the Blast into a much nicer runner. The ratio rockers would take additional $$$. I just think the extra 1000rpm makes is sooo nice. We both know it doesnt take much for us to go from changing the spark plug to rationalizing a full big bore engine with Baker tranny! Who makes the ratio rockers and are they Blast specific (or do you have to buy 4)? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
PS to Mabueller: You might want to carefully plan out what you want to do. You can spend a $1000 or $2000 and get the same net engine results. One will be more upgrade friendly, but thats pointless if you've got plans on getting rid of it soon. | ||
| Mabueller |
How difficult is it to change the springs and module? I can follow directions (I am a master watchmaker after all) but am hardly a top mechanic. I really like the Blast for our New England roads. It carves great at 50 or so. Maybe add something bigger in the stable to run on multi hour highway trips next year. But as far as this winter, a short money upgrade to improve the Blast sounds like fun. I am open to suggestions. | ||
| Blake |
Pammy/Wex at Cycle Rama or Brian/Scott at Revolution Performance can help you out fine without all the confusing technical jargon. They won't steer you wrong and are happy to take time to talk. Give 'em a call. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
The module is easy, especially if you're a watchmaker. The springs will probably mean pulling the head. It may be possible to do it without pulling the head, but it may take dropping the motor to the floor and I dont know anybody whose done it, but I'm sure it's been done. I'd, of course, buy the springs from Revolution Performance or Cycle Rama and ask them if anything else needs to be changed. If you pull the head, that would be a good time to throw in the cams. | ||
| Mabueller |
I was teasing about the burble Vs. popcorn "jargon". I have never heard another Blast run so I am only guessing about any sounds it makes for the most part. But I agree with your advice an appreciate the references. | ||
| Mmelvis |
mabueller:You can install the module yourself in about 2 hours. That is how long it took me. The connector was the hardest part of it all of installing the module (Screaming eagle Ignition). The instructions were really straight forward. As far as head work Cycle Rama will do you right, they installed my 515 kit and did my head work. I have yet to get the bike dyno tuned, saving up the money for that. I am a computer person by trade with an electronics back ground in helicopters. When it comes to the engine work (the moving metal parts) I have a habit of making a mess of things, the electronics are the part that are easy for me. | ||
| Ezblast |
Crane makes them, finding someone two just sell a set of two is the tricky part, going halfs is feasable - still looking, there is someone who is looking into produce kits with gaskets, b50, 1.75 rocker arms,(though its been said that stock springs will handle it)heavy duty springs - I think that is the perfect combo to liven up the stock motor, add a good exhaust and Ed's cool intake - lol (- the red bike with the torque stack and red sock filter looks cool - ) and it may be a good formula for longevity and performance from the stock configuration - the next step would be a hi-comp piston and total seal rings, and the exotic world of head work - where real money is blown - lol - that and final tunning. ....So the dark side wispers...lol Got Thump?! Just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ | ||
| Mabueller |
I appreciate the feedback from everyone. This board is a main reason I bought the Blast to begin with. Since I am in MA and the local dealers have little interest in Buells, it is me or finding an independent to perform the work. If it is assembly type labor I can do that (I believe?!?), machine work is a different issue. | ||
| Mabueller |
Is there a particular model number for the Screaming eagle Ignition or is there just one? | ||
| Mmelvis |
Mabueller: You can Call Dave Stueve at (920) 757-1651 or He is located in the sponsor section if you want to post the question. He can get you an answer tomorrow. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
SE module fits the XL (Sportster) or Blast and the part number is listed at the Buell website. Cylinder and head assembly is pretty straightforward as long as you are willing to follow the manual. I again, assuming your trade, are good at the small details! (Message edited by gearheaderiko on August 29, 2006) | ||
| Ezblast |
Crane Cams also makes it - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Wsplrll |
"IMHO just throwing in the B50 cams with some springs and getting the max rpm's up to 7500 really makes it a nice running bike, but the actual HP gains are minimal!" Just curious - how involved is that project? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Not major engine disassembly, but not for the squeamish either. It involves changing valve springs, camshafts and ignition module. The most difficult part being the valve springs, but if you can do it without removing the head, that makes it much easier.However you'll have to remove the head to do the camshafts, unless you convert to adjustable pushrods and collapsible pushrod tubes and cut the stock stuff off.You can just skip the cams and do the springs and module. Reportedly the valvetrain is good to 7500rpm (maybe more?) the valve springs the only thing holding back the extra rpms. Module= $225 appx. Springs $10-$50? Cams $150+ gaskets $10-$60 All the information is here somewhere on Badweb and if I've missed something, feel free to jump in. As previously noted I find it very easy to go from a simple head mod to an all out top end. It's very important that you decide exactly what you want to accomplish, as this will save you time and money in the long run. | ||
| Buellistic |
ME, "i" just take the rocker arms off ... Would rather keep the LIGHTER stock push rods ... Collapsible push rod covers have another gasket to weep/leak, but they do look RACIE ... If you can UP-GRADE the valve springs without taking the head off, why would you thake the head off to put in a better cam ??? OR would you be puting a cam with such a high lift you have to deepen the valve pockets and cut the cam case so the the cam will spin ??? |
