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Dfbutler
| Posted on Saturday, October 14, 2006 - 01:16 pm: |
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The engine on my 99 S3 developed a loud knocking sound. Disassembled the primary and everything, rotor, stator, primary chain, tensioner, seemed OK there. I took it to several places that had differing opinions as to the cause but universal in the opinion that the engine had to be taken apart to determine the cause of the noise. My question is, since it is coming apart anyhow, is there anything I should do while it is apart? If I need new pistons, is there an easy way to get more CCs like a bigger bore kit? What things should be checked while it is apart? The bike has about 38K miles. |
Spiderman
| Posted on Saturday, October 14, 2006 - 01:32 pm: |
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You can get a 1250 kit, they were on sale for $750 a few weeks ago from the local sponsor. While apart. Make sure you label everything and where it goes, IE which cylinder the intake and exhaust pushrods and lifters go to. Oil lines, connectors etc. A biggie that often gets overlooked, make your timing plate. clean everything out real well, check your crank end play, check cylinders for deep gouges incase you re-use. Check you heads. Make sure you do not need new seats and replace your valve seals while you got everything apart. that's all I can think of right now, I am sure others will chime in with their thoughts... Good luck and take your time.
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Spiderman
| Posted on Saturday, October 14, 2006 - 01:36 pm: |
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Another thing that I just thought of when I seen that pic. I use pieces of cardboard, draw a outline of the primary cover on it. Then place the bolts in there correct order. I do the same for the cam cover and the rear mounting bolts that bolt the motor to the swing arm (the tops are different from the bottoms) |
Xldevil
| Posted on Saturday, October 14, 2006 - 03:48 pm: |
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If the engine will be totally dismantled anyway,I would go for the big number, the 88"(1430cc)for only $799,instead of the 1250 kit. Nothing beats cubic inch! Ralph |
Spiderman
| Posted on Saturday, October 14, 2006 - 10:02 pm: |
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But you need the cases bored on top of that $799. With XB heads, 536 cams a 42 MM carb and a great exhaust you can reach over a 100rwhp with the 1250. FYI |
Xldevil
| Posted on Sunday, October 15, 2006 - 11:09 am: |
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But you need the cases bored on top of that $799 Bien sūr,but if the engine has to be desmantled?What's the problem It makes "only" approximately $300 in addition to the principal amount he has to pay for the engine rebuild anyway.The amount of work is almost the same. Ralph |
Spiderman
| Posted on Sunday, October 15, 2006 - 11:32 am: |
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It isn't the work, it is the cost. I am just laying out options for the man, I'm not a mind reader but I am about 85% sure he is doin this on a budget |
Dfbutler
| Posted on Sunday, October 15, 2006 - 12:42 pm: |
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Of course there is a budget. The reason I'm asking the group is for the feed back you guys have been nice enough to provide. The biggest expense, since I'm taking it to a shop for the work, is the labor. I need to buy the needed parts, the question is do I substitute upgraded parts and what is the cost trade off in cost? Is the big bore kit, or other items, twice as much as the OEM replacements or can I have the increase for 10 or 15% more? |
Spiderman
| Posted on Sunday, October 15, 2006 - 01:17 pm: |
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Well, That depends on what needs to be replaced. Your cylinders may not need to be replaced. They may only need to be bored a few thou over and .010 over pistons are only $100. Your heads may only need new seals which are real cheap parts I think seals are just a few bucks. And the labor is marginal at best since you are paying for a whole rebuild. You will need to see what is trashed compared to what you want to buy and/or upgrade. The important thing is to make sure your mechanic knows what to look for in a Buell engine. |
Tunes
| Posted on Sunday, October 15, 2006 - 03:38 pm: |
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The biggest bang for the buck, in my opinion, would be to have the engine balanced, instead of adding hp... keeping in mind I have a budget. |
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