| Author | Message | ||
     Elmono |
Looking to fatten up my mixture and improve performance of my stock CV. Mikuni is not an option at this time. If there's any detailed instructions and pics for this I can't find them. Any help? | ||
| Chasespeed |
Elmono, PM sent... Chase | ||
| Jackbequick |
This covers it pretty well: http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hd_cv_mods.htm I used that link when I did my 2000 M2. I just did steps #2 and #4, uncapping the idle mixture screw and setting it at 2-1/2 turns, and changing to the #45 low speed jet. That made a miraculous difference. I'd recommend trying that before you played around with the drilling on the hole in the slide and changing needles or needle positions. If they have not been replaced recently, it would be a good idea to replace the seals on the intake manifold too while you have the carb off. Those are prone to leaking and can contribute to an erratic idle and rough low speed running. Jack | ||
| Aldaytona |
Elmono, best advise for CV carb, Yost Power Tube kit. | ||
| Elmono |
Yost Power Tube alone? That atomizes the mixture, right? That will fix throttle sputter and lean mixture? | ||
| Hippyjoe |
On the nightrider link above... I've used this one before... 27094-88 Main needle ('88 XLH part) It's from the first year of the CV, before they had an accelerator pump. This needle makes up for lack of a.p. with a more aggressive, more even taper. If you're getting throttle sputter, you might try polishing the "wings" of the slide. They get pretty carboned up. Mother's or Simichrome works well. Otherwise bigger jets and setting the mixture screw. Drilling the air passage doesn't hurt, not sure if it's absolutely necessary. Lots of people like the Yost. I've run the CV in bikes from Knuckles to Evos with just the mods mentioned above with plenty fine results. I've also never needed to shim a needle. I tried the plastic slide with adjustable needle but found it to be a waste of money. |
