| Author | Message | ||
     Wvbuelling |
I have installed the new XB rocker box conversion kit, replaced the paper rocker box gaskets, drilled out the plug in the carb and adjusted the idle mixture screw, installed a 45 pilot jet, replaced the manifold gaskets, and replaced the original air filter with a carbon fiber/ham can air filter. After doing all this work I was somewhat nervous about what would happen when I tried to start it... but it fired right up and so far no leaks or other problems are obvious. I have changed the oil and filter and have a few questions that you all may be able to answer for me. My Buell is a 2001 M2 - I have the owners manual which is a great help but I need/want to replace the transmission fluid and the Harley shop sold me a quart bottle of Syn3 20W50 and said that it is to be used in the transmission - but the service manual says otherwise. What should I be using (don't want to start a war about which is better just what are the choices)? I don't have the rear wheel support stand so can I just hold the bike upright and add fluid even with the bottom of the clutch diaphragm spring? The manual says that the fluid should be changed when the bike is hot but that the exhaust needs to come off to drain the fluid. How can you remove the exhaust when the bike is hot? Does anyone know the part number of the rubber gasket used in the gas cap (the really small one used to seal in the gas fumes when you lock it down). One last question, does anyone have any suggestions on what to do with the aluminum bracket that used to help hold down the original air filter assembly. It sticks out and looks out of place so I would like to do something with it, I just don't know what though. This may sound crazy but I have not even rode this bike yet. I bought it more than a month ago but I could see the oil leak around the rear cylinder so I took what little time I have off from work to repair and adjust the bike. I wanted to ride this evening but as luck would have it it's raining. Anyway, sorry for so many questions but I appreciate any help you all can send my way! | ||
| Tim |
Yes, you can use the Syn3 in the tranny. Syn 3 was introducted after the tubers were out of production. | ||
| Tim |
With a couple of jack stands and a length of round stock slipped through the rear axle, you can have your bike level for obtaining the proper level. I found this to be about 4 oz short of a full qt. unless I had pulled the primary cover off for some reason. | ||
| Tim |
Re: the aluminum mount. Some people have just hacked off the excess appendage. This has been challenged as maybe not the best thing to do as it is holding the front of the motor to the frame and should not be subject to such treatment and still be expected perform as it was designed. This item in stock configuration has been known to fail. Some have replaced it with one from an X1 as it did not have the breadbox appendage. There are aftermarket sources who have addressed the breaking issue by producing a beefier mount. I know American Sport Bike carries one. Removing and replacing this item requires a specific set of steps be followed. | ||
| Essthreetee |
Congrats on the bike. and welcome to the SICKNESS. It is indeed an addiction (at least for me) As for the tranny, I use SportTrans fluid in mine, don't know if it is better or worse, just what I use. I just changed mine and did not do it hot. Some guys leave the exhaust mounted, wrap it in aluminum foil, and place a large cookie sheet under the oil pan to catch the extra mess. I believe there arealot of guys on here that use Mobile1 Gear Oil for there tranny. I was gonna switch, because of the rave reviews of the dramatic change in shifting, but decided not to because I read something about the stators not liking it...or something like that ???!!?!?!!??! I level my bike out by flipping the passenger pegs over, then I place a jackstand under the right side peg and use a jack to lift up the left side. Works like a charm, plus I don't have to lift it, the jack does all the work for me. Looking at MY (S3) parts catalog, the only O ring I see for the Gas cap is about the size of the gas cap. It is part # P0156.2 I assume it would be the same for an M2. There is an o-ring for th event valve, part # P0106.8 Again, this is from an S3 parts catalog, but I think they should be teh same. Those are the only two o-rings pictured for the gas cap... As for the aluminum bracket, I am no help. I run a gutted breadbox. Hope that helps. Good luck. Jason | ||
| Bookyoh |
Wv: If you do as Essthree said with aluminum foil and a pan (I use an old paint roller tray) you can drain without pulling the muffler. It is tricky to get the drain bolt back in though. I had taken my muffler off some time ago and made the dent under the drain bolt deeper with a mallet so I have more clearance. You can also loosen the rear bracket and pull down the end of the exhaust pipe for a little more clearance. A thin blade like a 1" paint scraper helps too to hold the drain bolt while you work the first thread to get it started. Overfilling the transmission is easy to do. I have found that I can get a full drain of the transmission by draining it while on the side stand, standing it up right for a few minutes, then leaning it on the side stand again for a few minutes, then up right again and back and forth a few times. There is a low point where oil collects under the gears and moving the bike to its side stand allows this oil to flow towards the drain hole. With this drain technique I have always put a full quart back in and never had any problems with overfill. Both my bikes have been to track schools with no oil blowing out then vent. I have the stock air boxes but I have seen where people saw off the "appendage" and then file it smooth. Should be no reason to pull off the bracket to do this. Mark Cincinnati 2000 M2 2001 S3T | ||
| Denfromphilly |
My .02 is that synthetic oil shifts better than dino oil. Mobil 1 75W90 gear oil and Mobil 1 20/50 seem to be the favorites. The sulpher in Mobil 1 could theoretically corrode the copper stator but so far there are no reports. My stator looks ok after 5,000 miles. Royal purple works good, so does Amsoil, old fashioned harley oil is ok but the shifting can get clunky. Screaming eagle synth works 95% as well as Mobil 1. Stay away from Redline shockproof, it gums up the clutch. Don't use too thick an oil it causes clutch drag and harder shifting. To drain the oil a lot of us loosen & move but don't remove the muffler to get to the drain plug. I use aluminum foil to cover the muffler and drain the foil to a catch tray. Congrats, Good Bike! Den PS Don't use a quart of oil, use about 24ozs, just until the primary chain touches the oil. (Message edited by denfromphilly on July 05, 2006) | ||
| Xldevil |
For the engine mount: I'm satisfied with this one on my M2. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Billet-front-Isolater-engine-mount-fits-Buell-M2- NEW_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35572QQihZ002QQitemZ4627349037 Ralph | ||
| Djkaplan |
I use the mount from NRHS...  Not sure if it's any better than stock, but it sure looks good. I've also purchased stuff from the B2R guy on E-bay and his stuff is pretty darn good, too. | ||
| Buellinator |
I cut my bracket off with a compact hacksaw. Then I rounded off the cut end with a dremel tool so it looks stock and painted it with black barbecue paint. Looks great and not like a hack job. |
