| Author | Message | ||
     Midknyte |
I followed the manual last night for getting at the rear sparkplug. It had me remove the airbox base and honestly, I don't see where that would have helped me much. I never got it out. Looks like it would be easier to just come up from the side with a floppy ended torque wrench. Comments? Thanks. | ||
| 99buellx1 |
spark plug socket on a swivel with an extention on a ratchet. worked perfect for me. | ||
| 99buellx1 |
 +  +  +  | ||
| Midknyte |
Were you able to get at it w/o removing the airbox base? Looks like one might be able to. (Message edited by midknyte on June 16, 2006) | ||
| 99buellx1 |
I took it off and put the socket and extention down between one of the triangle areas if I remember correctly. | ||
| Typeone |
i use the same tool set as 99buell + a set of spark plug pliers. and no, i have never removed the airbox base to do plug work. I've had 'em out/in more times than i can remember. process is a snap for me. | ||
| Doon |
Using the above combo it is snap. The first time is a bit rough though. Oh yeah if you changing from The Stock Spark plugs to the Buell Pro Plugs, they have different sized nuts on them (at least mine did) | ||
| Midknyte |
yeah, the pro plug is 11/16. I bought a 5/8 plug socket per the manual - part of my problem here... | ||
| Snowhownd |
On an SS it is not possible without removing the airbox  (Message edited by snowhownd on June 16, 2006) | ||
| Americanmadexb |
}On an SS it is not possible without removing the airbox not true, i never remove the seat on my SS to take the rear plug out. I use the above mentioned socket, extention, swivel ect. | ||
| Cmm213 |
When you put it back in use a rubber hose that can bend and twist at the same time. With the wobbly on sometime you can crossthread and not know it till its too late! | ||
| Typeone |
to help prevent cross-threading on the back plug i hold the top of the plug between two fingers, guide it through the triangle cutout then use my other hand up under the frame and grab the lower portion of the plug to guide it in, then gently turn. i always use anti-seize so it glides right in. i dont have small hands but my fingers can just reach in both places. then i snug down with the socket, wobble, ext, etc. | ||
| Davo |
Another trick is to put some electrical tape around the swivel to keep it semi-straight during the installation process. This will help with correct plug alignment. | ||
| Sokota |
I use a 6" 1/4 inch drive extension with 1/4 inch to 3/8 adaptor with a good spark plug socket with proper neopreme insert to keep plug firmley in place , Its actually a strait shot with no wobbly feel...also a little never sieze each time. On edit ,the air box base is removed .I have witnessed a Buell tech strip the rear plug [not my bike] so a carefull un-hurried approach is best. (Message edited by sokota on June 16, 2006) | ||
| Midknyte |
Thanks guys. I go forth well armed. | ||
| Midknyte |
And satisfied... Plugs, in & out. Thanks. |
