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Message |
Henrik
| Posted on Sunday, May 04, 2003 - 12:43 pm: |
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If you use one of these before you use one of these you will need one of these to reveal this ... So, do you think those threads will hold a new main shaft nut torqued to 75 - 80 ft. lbs?? Henrik (BTFM, RTFM: Buy The F....ng Manual, Read The F....ng Manual) |
Peter
| Posted on Sunday, May 04, 2003 - 12:55 pm: |
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LHT dude.... Do it back up to 80lb and see if it feels weak. If not, I'd risk it. Pete (Message edited by peter on May 04, 2003) |
V2win
| Posted on Sunday, May 04, 2003 - 01:13 pm: |
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Some can never tell their left from their right. Don't you just hate it when it's your fault that it's screwed up? Hang in there. |
Hans
| Posted on Sunday, May 04, 2003 - 06:00 pm: |
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Henrik: My feeling for and experience with old and bad threads says: Take a new nut and no problem at all: As good as new ! And my son, while learning to become engineer, told me in his first year proudly that there are only 2.5 or three threads who are carrying in fact the full load on the bolt. Cheer up man. Hans |
Henrik
| Posted on Sunday, May 04, 2003 - 06:54 pm: |
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LHT indeed Peter. I'd kinda been thinking of just trying it out with a new nut. Only thing is, I have a couple of long rides planned in the next months time, and would hate to be messing around trying to rebuild the tranny roadside John; you better believe I hate it! Hans: that's good information. The threads are all there, just a bit shorter than before ... I'll keep you posted. Henrik |
V2win
| Posted on Sunday, May 04, 2003 - 07:12 pm: |
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Racerboy and I will be at Deals Gap the weekend of 7-18. If you may be near, be sure to let us know. |
Paulinoz
| Posted on Sunday, May 04, 2003 - 09:53 pm: |
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Henrik been there and done just what you did.Even went further by applying heat and also tried penetrating oil overnight. Put new nut on 7,000 km ago and no problems. Remember great minds think alike, or was it fools seldom differ. (Message edited by PaulinOz on May 04, 2003) |
Henrik
| Posted on Sunday, May 04, 2003 - 10:31 pm: |
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?s. Makes me feel a bit better knowing that I'm not the first .... and most likely not the last John; I'll be down in the Mt. Pisgah area with friends from Denmark around June 12-15. We may try and make it to Deals Gap on June 14. Henrik |
Phillyblast
| Posted on Sunday, May 04, 2003 - 11:03 pm: |
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My brother's old Plymouth Valiant had left hand threads on the driver's side lug nuts, and I stood on the lug wrench bouncing up and down one night trying to loosen the lug to change a flat when *Snap* I wound up flat on the ground when the lug broke from overtightening it. My brother looked at me, looked at the four remaining lug nuts, and said something like, "well, only four more to go" btw Henrik, thanks for the hospitality this weekend. Had a great time, I'll have pics up soon. David |
Firemanjim
| Posted on Sunday, May 04, 2003 - 11:26 pm: |
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Henrik,just use new nut with locktite and go for it.(I used JB Weld to put the end back on the ignition drive end of crank on a GS-1000 and it ran forever) |
Uwgriz
| Posted on Monday, May 05, 2003 - 11:50 am: |
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Ring gear bolts on Chrysler 8.25" axles are left hand threaded and it took me popping two of them before I figured something wasn't quite right. "Man, those are really tight aren't they? Hey, wait a minute..." To make matters worse, there was a little "L" printed on the bolt head... If I remember right, the number of threads carrying the load is basically the number of threads that it takes to cover the distance equal to the diameter of the bolt. Don't quote me, some of these things have become a little foggy. |
Blake
| Posted on Monday, May 05, 2003 - 04:18 pm: |
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Henrik, What gear was the tranny in when you proof tested your impact wrench? I agree, new nut, little loctite, good to go. Hans, Your son's astute statement is accurate if the nut is the standard course threaded type. The fine threaded ones require the same length to develp near full strength, so more threads. The rule of thumb that Uwgriz recalls will in general cover any manner of threadform. Bolted joints are interesting things. We take them for granted without really knowing how they work. It all works because because steel (or whatever material is used) stretches elastically. Want an analogy? The threads of a nut are larger and have more stress carrying area and thus also more stiffness than the threads on the bolt. Think of the bolt as a long bungie chord band and its threads as hooks spaced one foot apart beginning at one end. Think of the nut as a nylon chord/rope with say 5 hooks spaced one foot apart beginning at one end. Now imagine splicing the rope to the bungie chord by mating opposing hooks so that the free ends of the bungie and rope are opposite and you have one long line, half rope and half bungie joined by the hooks. Anchoring the free end of the rope, pull on the free end of the bungie, stretching it to near twice its original length. How much of the load does the first bungie hook (the one closest to you) carry. Virtually all of the load right? Why? The rope between the 1st and 2nd hooks is stiff and will not stretch, where the bungie between hooks 1 and 2 is flexible and will stretch considerably. In order to transfer load from the bungie's 2nd hook to the rope, the bungie between hooks 1 and 2 needs to stretch, but the rope will not stretch nearly enough to allow that. The same scenario to a lesser degree happens between a nut and bolt. Just that the difference in stiffnesses is not so drastic, so significant load makes it to the 2nd, and third threads. Think of the above analogy but instead of a rope imagine a larger diameter bungie chord as representing the nut. Hey, no math! |
Henrik
| Posted on Monday, May 05, 2003 - 08:37 pm: |
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Gear selection: I'm pretty sure I had the bike in neutral at the time. I use a folded up rag run in between chain and sprocket to keep the whole thing from spinning, so I usually don't bother with trying to lock up the rear wheel. The rag does a fine job. Henrik |
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