Thread Last Poster Posts Pages Last Post Transmission woes - Blast won't move any more Gearheaderiko 9  1  08-26-15  12:34 pm Blasted apart! Blasted_man 5  1  05-13-12  09:37 am Shifter slips Gearheaderiko 9  1  08-28-19  11:12 pm Transmission Issues on 2002 Gearheaderiko 8  1  07-12-15  12:27 pm Thump became a Thud! Ezblast 8  1  07-19-11  06:44 pm Clicking on left side when accelerating. Ezblast 5  1  07-14-11  03:07 pm New blaster Gearheaderiko 13  1  07-04-11  08:30 pm O sh*t!! i knew i should've checked to see if the 1000 mile service... Ezblast 78  4  07-02-11  09:33 pm Grinding when putting in gear??? Ezblast 48  2  06-28-11  05:21 pm Dropped bike, need some help from you guys!!! Gearheaderiko 4  1  05-05-11  08:45 pm Transmission Sticking Buellistic 39  2  12-14-11  11:15 pm Primary cover removal Crackhead 7  1  10-13-10  09:09 am Is this normal? shift shaft/primary Ezblast 4  1  08-19-10  12:09 am Help!!! 2001 blast Kevlar belt snapped off! Gearheaderiko 8  1  08-04-11  12:12 am Transmission shifter clip and pawl adjustment - MUST DO! Ezblast 8  1  03-17-11  10:20 pm Blast leaking from front sprocket Rydog60236 23  1  08-18-10  09:16 am Oil leaking like crazy from clutch cable. Buellistic 9  1  07-07-11  10:54 am Muller 'easy pull' clutch device installed! Buellistic 5  1  04-22-11  11:47 am XB Primary parts on a Blast engine Texas_firebolt 68  3  09-28-09  11:40 pm Clutch or Primary issue? Ezblast 44  2  02-15-10  12:05 am Blast clutch (or friction zone modification) Runsatzombies 77  3  12-20-14  05:51 pm Clutch pause Jprovo 4  1  04-07-06  11:47 am Clutch Cable Adjustment Robi 34  1  04-05-10  09:16 am Adjusting the Clutch Gearheaderiko 25  3  08-15-07  10:13 pm Clutch troubles Sking1973 41  2  05-25-08  09:37 pm 02 Blast, second "clunk" as I let out the clutch Swampy 19  1  08-24-09  09:24 am Transmission.... Buellistic 137  8  12-24-10  03:27 pm Adjust Primary Chain Gearheaderiko 255  10  06-14-09  12:27 am Transmission Trouble Ezblast 19  1  03-31-09  10:58 pm Transmission Fluid and other questions Flat_tire 60  2  08-27-11  12:49 pm Primary chain Rusty7983 48  2  07-04-11  03:48 pm Primary fluid Buellistic 6  1  10-04-11  09:08 am Extra Neutrals and Clunky First Gear when Cold Buellistic 2  1  05-23-12  03:57 pm Archive through September 25, 2009 Gcha 31  1  09-25-09  03:36 pm Archive through May 22, 2009 Swampy 30  1  05-22-09  07:33 am Archive through May 01, 2009 Gearheaderiko 30  1  05-01-09  01:04 am Archive through May 12, 2008 Gearheaderiko 30  1  05-12-08  10:59 pm Archive through March 10, 2008 Gbaz 30  1  03-10-08  05:12 pm Archive through January 09, 2008 Stiguy 30  1  01-09-08  11:49 am Archive through March 14, 2007 Joey 30  1  03-14-07  05:40 pm Archive through February 13, 2007 Buellistic 30  1  02-13-07  08:27 am   Start New Thread

Light effortless shifting can be achieved with a Muller clutch device and a Baker Drum kit for a 2000 X1/M2.

Clutch 'friction zone' increase:
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/20164/66673.html?1280273823


PVC Clutch tool!

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/47623/627777.html




cable alternatives:
Barnett Clutch cable Part #616-00
Motion Pro's website - M2, S3 and Blast

Usefull Shifting Drum info and mods -
Drilling the drum for the detent plate to be bolted to drum and the filing of the shifter arm.
2nd link is usefull as well.
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/47623/160713.html#POST516987
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/3842/189716.html?1170454006


Pauls' Close Enough method:

It is pretty close (.02", or 1 flat) from having the bike warmed up, backing the lock nut all the way out and then finger tighten to where you can just feel the chain follower shoe banging against the top of the bolt. Then back it out 1/8"

If your really into your primary case - then by all means do Buellistics method - as translated to us by Paul
since Buelistic himself never offered to explain it):
(caution though - some folk have a less sense of fingertip feeling than others - my dad worked hard in his life and like me has calluses on his fingertips and can't feel as much - lol) So remember - as you said - Buelistic - to be totally accurate you would have to see the shoe contact bolt - with the primary open - otherwise your just guessing by feel - nothing a real mechanic would do - so your method with the cover off would be correct - otherwise your way is just a series of hopefully close guesses.

Back when I was having all my primary issues, this is the "bagged cat" method I got from Lafeyette to try. Measurements on how different methods vary is on a post of mine in the archives somewhere from last fall.Sorry for publishing it, but it had to be done.

My comments are in quotes and have PdO after them to distinguish my editorial from the original instructions.


The Blast has a built in chain tensioner, ie: SPRING,chain tensioner
PN 24349-00Y which keeps a slight tension on the when going forward,
BUT when backing off it lets it loosen to its maximum play ... The early
SHOE,chain adjuster PN39946-00Y had two holes for aditional tension
of Spring,chain adjuster PN24349-00Y and in one of the holes it made
the SHOE "TOO TIGHT" and the later ones had only one spring hole as
the FACTORY some how figured this out ...
>>>>>>>>
The only way to prove that your primary adjustment is too tight is to take the
PRIMARY COVER PN 25521-00Y off and look at the SHOE,chain
adjuster PN 39946-00Y and look at where the chain rubs on it ...
If the chain has or is wearing into the SHOE,chain adjuster, it has or is
being adjusted TOO TIGHT ...(Mine was tightened to Buell manual specs and worn thru to the webbing in 4k miles. PdO)
>>>>>>>>
The CHAIN GUIDE PN 39934-00Y in time will deteriorate and fall into the primary chain(the XBRR as a chain guide also and this PART should be removed) ... Left mine out !!! ( I kept mine. PdO)
>>>>>>>>
Now lets get to the task at hand, adjusting the primary chain as CORRECTLY (or most precisely. PdO) as possible with this system !!!
>>>>>>>>
01) Get the rear wheel off the ground(as in standing the bike straight up) .... (I used a rod thru the axle and 2 milk crates. PdO)
>>>>>>>>>
02) Remove the SPARK PLUG, this is so the engine can be turned over with the rear wheel ...
>>>>>>>>>
03) Rocking the transmission gears with the rear wheel, put the transmission in 5th gear(as not to damage the transmission) ..(This makes sense when you do it. PdO)
>>>>>>>>
04) Back off NUT 7/8"(lock), chain adjustment bolt PN 7804 all the way out to the end of the threads of the BOLT,chain adjustment PN3301Y holding the BOLT with a 1/4"allen... (or a wrench. PdO)
>>>>>>>>
05) Now to find the Primary Chain tight spot ...
>>>>>>>>
06) Back out(counter clock wise) the BOLT,chain adjustment PN 3301Y(to take all tension off the Primary chain ...
>>>>>>>>
07) NOW slowly turn(clock wise) the BOLT,chain adjuster with a 1/4" allen PN 3301Y and ease it in to take the tension out(finger tight) of the Primary Chain ... (if you use your fingers, you can feel the bolt contact the bottom of the shoe. PdO)
>>>>>>>>
08) Measure the length of the of the BOLT,chain adjuster from Primary Case PN 25521-00Y to the end of BOLT,chain adjuster with a small machinists ruler or just a ruler that the measurement can be made with and write the measurement down ... (you want at 1mm divisions at the largest, .01" is better yet. PdO)
>>>>>>>>>
09) Back off out(counter clock wise) BOLT,chain adjuster PN 25521-00Y to take tension off Primary Chain ... (about a full turn works good. PdO)
>>>>>>>>>
10) Turn engine over with rear wheel and REPEAT NUMBERS 06 thru 10 until(10 times is good enough) you get the longest measurement of BOLT, chain adjustment ... Use the rear wheel valve stem as a reference and rotate one turn each time to get proper length of adjusted bolt ... (a statistical sample size of 10 with one wheel rotation giving a different spot on the primary chain for each measurement. It is likely that this will get you the actual tightest spot. They do actually vary quite a bit. PdO)
>>>>>>>>>
11) When you have done this the longest measurement is where the BOLT is at IT'S longest, you have now found the TRUE TIGHT SPOT of the PRIMARY CHAIN ...
>>>>>>>>
12) NOW BACK OUT(counter clock wise) the BOLT, chain adjuster PN 25521-00Y from its longest length (as found in step 11) and add an additional 1/8 inch which will give you 3/4 inch chain play in reality ...
>>>>>>>>
13) Hold the BOLT,chain adjuster PN 25521-00Y in place with the 1/4" allen and tighten the NUT 7/8"(lock),chain adjuster PN 7804 ...
>>>>>>>>
14) Put it back together as you are done with this adjustment ...
>>>>>>>>
NOW THIS IS A LITTLE TIME CONSUMING, "BUT" YOU GET A "ABSOLUTE CORRECT" ADJUSTMENT !!!
>>>>>>>>
A great alternative for the Stock Blast:


Click the picture for info on how to change the transmission fluid w/o removing the foot peg bracket.


EZ's Sound Method:
Ride bike for a half hour - then park while running on flat level ground, take 2 adjustalbe wrenches - one for the adjuster and one for the locking nut - loosen till you hear a change in sound, then tighten till sound goes away - stop - hold adjuster bolt in place and tighten locking nut - done.
Note - if you suspect your chain is too loose - the telltale would be sound (anything from a box of rocks to a whir sound)- then tighten till sound stops - slight sound ok, etc.
EZ


Note: Clutch Release Plate - pt.# 37918-91 is now 36731-91 - this part number is for all Sposter, Tuber, XB and Blast Models.

Author Message   Ezblast Posted on Friday, September 25, 2009 - 05:56 pm:        HOT   Reuel Posted on Friday, September 25, 2009 - 09:10 pm:        At 24 inch pounds, I don't think engine temperature would matter enough to actually matter, since you're going to double what the book says anyway.   Gearheaderiko Posted on Friday, September 25, 2009 - 09:20 pm:        The manual doesnt really specify cold or hot, but you'll get a better adjustment if its done hot. However, if you still have a stock exhaust, you may want to do it cold as the exhaust will be very close. I think you'll be fine with the adjustment you have now. The primary really doesnt need regular adjustment like a normal 'rear' chain (where the Blast has a belt). Unless you start doing wheelies or burn outs, its not going to stretch much. It is the same chain they use on the twins.   Gcha Posted on Saturday, September 26, 2009 - 08:31 pm:        Thanks for the information. In not having a torque wrench, would the "tightening by hand" method of adjusting the primary chain be as satisfactory as some of the other methods mentioned in these threads? I understand you can tighten the adjuster bolt by hand until you just feel the chain on a warmed, running engine,, and then back it off 1.5 turns, and lock it down. Need the engine be hot, or just warmed up past the start-up idle? In doing a preliminary adjustments as was suggested, by just backing the adjuster out 4 more flats, from the dealer set-up, I measure appx. .375" between lock nut and adjuster bolt head. This seems to be just a slight bit wider than the info on this forum. Or is that measurement different on a case by case basis? My Blast only has 2300 miles at this point. Thanks   Gearheaderiko Posted on Saturday, September 26, 2009 - 09:36 pm:        See also: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/243953.html?1244953624   Gearheaderiko Posted on Saturday, September 26, 2009 - 10:02 pm:        "then back it off 1.5 turns" I didnt see this anywhere? (not that it isnt, I just didnt see it), but I wouldnt follow it. Everybody also has their own preferred adjustment! All chains will be different, but they are very much alike in certain ways. Almost all will have less clearance between the nut and bolt that the factory spacer had. I prefer 'Ed's sound method' best, modified to adjust it per the factory and add the 4 flats. Then do the sound test. You should hear a big difference in noise with a half turn of the bolt (especially if you have the stock exhaust. Mines loud and I can hear the difference). By doing the sound method after the modified factory adjustment you'll feel more confident you have it right. Being a fairly new bike without abuse, the chain should have had the best chance to stretch evenly and you shouldnt need to turn the bolt too many turns. Mark the adjuster bolt and nut with a knife or felt tip pen and keep track of where you start and end. When in doubt, you can get the inch lbs torque wrench and go back to the 'per manual' setting and go from there. That measurement will always be consistent.   Gearheaderiko Posted on Saturday, September 26, 2009 - 10:07 pm:        "The tightening by hand" method will be satisfactory. You'll hear the noise difference. But its 1/2 turn, not 1.5 turns. I trust Paul in his research of the various ways, though I may disagree slightly in the outcome. You'll be an expert soon enough and I'm confident you'll hear the difference!   Gearheaderiko Posted on Saturday, September 26, 2009 - 10:37 pm:        The factory adjustment spacer is .380". An adjustment of more than that I would be suspect of. What I did was buy the torque wrench, adjust it to the repair manual specs and then I knew what the starting point was and where the repair manual puts it at. That gave me a reference point. The torque wrench will come in handy, eventually. I use it a lot, but I've got a few more things to work on It would not surprise me if the mechanic took out the spacer, turned the bolt in once, then pronounced it done!   Reuel Posted on Sunday, September 27, 2009 - 02:30 pm:        It would also not be surprising if that once turned in bolt just happened to be set at just the right point.   Gcha Posted on Monday, September 28, 2009 - 12:51 pm:        So, I have another Q. When setting the primary adjustment to the Torque Wrench spec, is the motor running or off. Sorry if this is a stupid question. Would a bar type torque wrench like the Park Tool type work? If not, what would be a reasonably priced unit to purchase? I tried the warm up and listen method without much success. Couldn't hear much of a change in chain noise with all the rattling from footpegs etc. Also my Blast idles fairly fast when it is well warmed up. It is good just after start-up from cold but tends to idle faster when hot. So then I decided to try the tighten to the chain/shoe contact, back off 1/8 in, method. I took a while to do this as the cycle vibrated across the garage floor with me scooting around on my side chasing it with the two wrenches vibrating off the bolts. Then I smelled a HOT engine, and yes it was smoking, so, I guess I might have an additional thing to be concerned about. I let it cool off and stop smoking and took it for a short ride, seemed to be OK, but now I am worried!!! HELP   Ezblast Posted on Monday, September 28, 2009 - 06:21 pm:        First change your intake boot, that is causing the fast idle. When it is at 1200 rpms - which is normal - try the sound method - EZ   Uk_blast Posted on Friday, October 30, 2009 - 05:13 am:        Hi all, Having one of the few blasts in the UK technically help is difficult as local Harley dealers don't have much interest. Anyway,after 20,000 miles the primary side was starting to sound like a bag of rocks. I ordered a new primary chain slipper and spring from Ironmachine in the US. Parts duly arrived, I took the primary casing off and removed the old slipper and spring. The slipper was found to have 3 grooves worn in it due to over adjustment on my part. Trying to fit the new slipper and spring has proved to be impossible due to the strength of the spring and not enough clearance between the slipper and the primary chain, I simply cannot slide the spring and slipper over the locating peg and the other leg of the spring into the whole in the casing. When I have managed to locate a part of the spring in the slipper and in the casing I can't push the slipper into place as the portions of the spring and casing are at such and angle due to the tension on the spring they just simple wont slide fit ( am I missing something the manual). Any suggestions on how to fit the new primary chain slipper and tensioner spring would be greatly appreciated.   Gearheaderiko Posted on Friday, October 30, 2009 - 09:57 am:        Grooving is normal for the shoe (within reason). Did they send you the right spring? Also earlier shoes are reported to have two spring holes. Tight and loose. Did they send you the right shoe (though springs are the same)? Are you using the right hole? I actually have a primary off in the garage, so I'll try to take a look at it today and see if I can spot the trouble (but hopefully someone will have an answer before then).   Gearheaderiko Posted on Friday, October 30, 2009 - 09:58 am:        PS Almost ALL Harley dealers have very, very little interest in the Blast. You are not alone!   Ezblast Posted on Saturday, January 09, 2010 - 12:28 am:        The trick is to feed about a quarter of the spring into its case hole and mount the shoe a 1/4 on as well then flex/push/close the gap on them into fitting together - its definitely a finagling type of thing - patience - make sure the spring is mounted into the correct hole on the shoe as well. EZ   Robi Posted on Friday, April 02, 2010 - 04:36 pm:        why do the instructions above have "primary adjuster" and PN xxxxx repeated over and over? Are those supposed to be there?   Buellistic Posted on Friday, April 02, 2010 - 05:04 pm:        If you want a copy of THE PRIMARY CHAIN ADJUSTMENT 101, e-mail me(Ljenne73c@verizon.net)and it is yours ...   Dankno Posted on Friday, May 14, 2010 - 05:10 pm:        Here's something interesting... http://www.EBRacing.com/shop/product69.html Should work on our Blasts, shouldn't it? $1000 is a little spendy, but you may make it up (someday) with the money you'll save on rear tires... Or more likely you'll spend all your free time "backing-it-in" around every corner you find.   Ezblast Posted on Friday, May 14, 2010 - 09:24 pm:        XBs have 4 more discs - it may or may not fit. EZ   Gearheaderiko Posted on Friday, May 14, 2010 - 11:10 pm:        Just add the belt drive and a Baker 6 and its perfect! http://www.harleycustom.co.uk/product.php?cat_id=3 6&man_id=509&prod_id=2120 The bonus is your Blast drivetrain just doubled the bikes value!   Kevinm427 Posted on Saturday, July 03, 2010 - 10:32 pm:        Would anyone happen to have an idea on how long the adjuster bolt should be? Mine is about 1 3/4" of threads. I have a feeling that the previous owner of my bike replaced it with a shorter one. It makes a hellacious noise and no movement of the bolt changes that and there's no feedback either. I figure this would also be why the guide and shoe were shattered in the primary case   Ezblast Posted on Saturday, July 03, 2010 - 11:11 pm:        How do you set your primary? EZ   Kevinm427 Posted on Sunday, July 04, 2010 - 01:22 am:        Was going to just do it by sound, this is the first time I've tried. Had some shifting problems so I took off the primary cover and saw the shoe and guide shattered, replaced them, put her back together with the adjustment bolt in the same spot it was before hand. It now sounds like the chain is loose, though, and running the bolt it in or out isn't doing anything. Haven't ridden it yet because I don't want to shatter another shoe.   Gearheaderiko Posted on Sunday, July 04, 2010 - 02:10 am:        Is the spring in correctly? I dont remember the threaded part being much more than 1 3/4". If in doubt its the right bolt, take the jam nut off and try it that way. The spring should hold the shoe against the chain. The bolt merely acts as a limiter.   Gearheaderiko Posted on Sunday, July 04, 2010 - 02:12 am:        It is also possible that the chain is severely stretched. Hard to do on a Blast, but not impossible.   2hrcommute Posted on Friday, July 23, 2010 - 09:26 pm:        What is the torque for the coupling that connects the transmission vent hose to the transmission? Mine was finger lose and leaking small amount. I want to put it back where it should be without breaking anything. I looked in the manual and can't find anything. thanks   Gearheaderiko Posted on Saturday, July 24, 2010 - 12:13 am:        It looks like tapered pipe plug threads, which means you can keep on cranking it in until the case splits Just lightly turn it until you feel some resistance, then a tad more or 'just tight'. You should feel some resistance if you go to loosen it. If it comes loose, not much will happen. If you overtighten it, you'll need a new case (or welding). Loctite helps. I dont believe there's a torque spec and I dont feel its really necessary for me to search one out (but I could).   Swampy Posted on Saturday, July 24, 2010 - 10:34 am:        You could try some pipe tape. I keep a roll of yellow tape that is used for gas line plumbing as it is oil resistant.   Gearheaderiko Posted on Saturday, July 24, 2010 - 07:24 pm:        Pipe tape is probably better (and very handy to have around too). White or yellow works.   2hrcommute Posted on Sunday, August 08, 2010 - 02:00 pm:        Turns out it wasn't leaking from the vent hole on the trans. I put a rag around the hole and it didn't get oily, but oil leaked under the starter and out on the swing arm. What gives? I can live with a leak as long as it can handle 75 mph for 2,000 miles a month w/o running out of trans oil. Maybe the Redline Synthetic 75-90 weight would slow down the leak?   Dann Posted on Monday, August 09, 2010 - 10:41 am:        I had to replace the starter gasket on my 2001 Blast, it's not hard just time consuming(unless you have rearsets). You have to remove the primary cover to get to the bolts. The old gasket was paper the new one they sent me was a metal one should last a long time. Also make sure your stator wire is not leaking. (Message edited by dann on August 09, 2010)   2hrcommute Posted on Monday, August 09, 2010 - 05:09 pm:        Cool, thanks. I'll look it up in the manual and get on it this weekend

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