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Josh_cox
| | Posted on Saturday, June 10, 2006 - 12:26 am: | 
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I haven't installed and tuned a tfi for over a year (we have been using other devices). If I remember correctly, from left to right. Low, Mid, High, Idle mix. The reason I said to remove it (unplug from injector clips) is b/c the pot may be broken. The only setting that you would benefit from adding fuel to is the midrange with the race ecm setup. Remember it adds the same fuel no matter what rpm you are at too, so don't add too much or your economy will go all to hell. |
Davo
| | Posted on Saturday, June 10, 2006 - 01:18 am: |
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It might sound a little old school but I would check my battery terminals and then do a plug read. I always go back to basics before I over complicate my ignition/fuel problems. Top end rich will show on the plugs and top end lean will be felt and heard in the engine. The front plug is easy to pull and it is usually the hottest. 5/8" Box wrench and anti-seize. Don't cross thread or over torque. 1/8 turn past finger tight on a reused plug. 1/4 past finger tight on a new one. I shoot a little compressed air on the plug base to blow away debris before I remove the plug. If you are over 40 get a magnifying glass it really helps. A 1 1/2" long 3/8" rubber hose works good for running the plug in and out with your fingers.
(Message edited by davo on June 10, 2006)
(Message edited by davo on June 10, 2006) |
Typeone
| | Posted on Saturday, June 10, 2006 - 08:51 am: |
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Hogs, before unhooking stuff, setting the first 3 pots to 1:00 o'clock and the 4th to 11:00 o'clock will keep the unit from adding any fuel over the stock map.
Here's the TFI pots explained.. .
Green Fuel Pot (1): (functions like a fuel mixture screw on a carburetor)
Adjusts for the motorcycle’s fuel requirements during light load operation, from idle through legal highway cruising speeds and steady throttle, at or below the rpm set by your rpm set pot. We have found that manufacturers have generally leaned out the fuel mixtures for emissions to a specific rpm (see below).
To set this pot, make sure the motorcycle is up to a full operating temperature, then while in neutral, pick a fast idle that is not easy to hold a steady rpm (V-twins 1800-2200 rpm and multiple cylinders 2500-3000 rpm), hold the throttle at that spot and then slowly and evenly turn the green pot clockwise from its minimum setting, while listening to the exhaust sound.
You should hear the exhaust sound change form an irregular and uneven tone to an even and smooth tone. You may also see an increase in rpm as you increase fuel, and if you continue to increase fuel past this point to where the revs start to fall back away, then you can stop and start returning the pot screw back to a point half way between where the exhaust note first smoothed out and the point where the highest rpm starts to fall away.
Yellow Fuel Pot (2): (functions like an accelerator pump)
This fuel adjustment adds fuel into the fuel map whenever the throttle is opened rapidly. This pot needs to be adjusted from test riding, by performing brisk roll-ons in a specific gear, and by always starting at the exact same rpm.
Try one clock position increases between roll-on tests until you can’t feel any more improvement, and then go back to the last setting that improvement was noticed. Some models won’t require as much fuel as others, so while increasing the yellow by one clock position increments if the motorcycle starts to decrease in throttle response, then turn the yellow back one and a half clock positions
Red Fuel Pot (3): (functions like a main jet on a carburetor)
This fuel adjustment adds fuel under large load conditions and is generally required when either air intake or quality exhaust system changes occur. This addition happens automatically using our unique load sensing technology, and similar to the road test procedure listed above in yellow fuel, test riding while increasing red fuel will find an optimum setting.
Cruise Pot (4):
This feature allows the tuner to target a percentage of fuel during normal closed loop operation. The closed loop systems on motorcycles targets a signal from the o2 sensor.
The cruise pot adjustment coupled with our unique programming gives the tuner the ability to add fuel during cruise without the closed loop system pulling fuel back out. Countless hours of testing resulted in the suggested setting that comes in the instructions, in some cases where the volumetric efficiency has been increased by various engine modifications the need to target a slightly different percentage of fuel may be needed, this is where the range of cruise adjustment may be needed.
(Message edited by typeone on June 10, 2006) |
Hogs
| | Posted on Saturday, June 10, 2006 - 09:17 am: |
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Thanks Guys,
I am sure I have read that before, Hard to remember everything...
Just wondering though It seems like pot 3 wd. be my plm area...
Also, Does the ecm not have to relearn before making all them changes etc. in between? Was this Written just for our type of ECM in mind, I think it was written for all in GEneral , Which makes me wonder some what?
And even at this point, I`m not sure its the TFI at all that is giving me my HEadaches...!
Appreciate all the Whats, IFs, Could bes, that is coming in here Its something and Just have to keep digging :-(( |
Typeone
| | Posted on Saturday, June 10, 2006 - 09:21 am: |
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Also, Does the ecm not have to relearn before making all them changes etc. in between?
yes, it does, and you should only tweak one pot at a time. make your adjustment, hit the road, hold steady 3500-3800RPM for a few miles, pull over, turn bike off, hit the road again. i do this a few times before changing another setting. |
Hogs
| | Posted on Saturday, June 10, 2006 - 09:23 am: |
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Hey M1Combat,
If ya happened to drop in what can ya tell me about this 4500 rpm pot, and Surging as well in that rpm range? |
Hogs
| | Posted on Saturday, June 10, 2006 - 09:24 am: |
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Ok Typeone,
That sure sounds like FUN! :-( |
Hogs
| | Posted on Saturday, June 10, 2006 - 10:00 pm: |
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So anyone right on on these TFI settings?
I guess based on mine up above I wd. adjust the 3rd pot if with the plms. I have stated etc etc ...? |
M1combat
| | Posted on Sunday, June 11, 2006 - 01:22 am: |
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I haven't used one of those in a while either... Sorry for the delay... I was in Phx with my girl.
I remember posting what I thought was the right way to tune a TFI a while back. I seem to remember that the discriptions in the manual were VERY un-intuitive. Boarderlining on just plain wrong.
I think that any time I wanted to tune it I would set 2 and 3 to off, then settle the AFV. After that, I would tune 2 and 3.
The final settings I ended up with were Off, Off, Off, 8:15 I think, but that was for a Force pipe (with header).
I have no idea how a Beson flows.
I do know that you want to settle the AFV wherever the system runs the most rich. That will put the AFV adjusted fuel curve as low as possible. Then add fuel where you need it...
Any time you adjust the fourth pot, you need to adjust the others as well. |
Hogs
| | Posted on Sunday, June 11, 2006 - 08:59 am: |
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Thanks M1,
Anyone else right up on the TFI settings, Not what yours are ,But just setting them up in General as I have forgot More than I remember when it comes to the TFI units, and will just use this for this year again, and then Dump it later on... for something that will be MUch better, Datta logging/ etc etc |
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