| Author |
Message |
    
Suzypoozie
| | Posted on Sunday, June 18, 2006 - 05:53 pm: | 
|
I just replaced my drive chain primary gasket, my clutch cable and my shifter. Now my bike isn't shifting. It sounds like it's going into gear, and I can see it working, but it's just not engaging... any ideas? |
Henrik
| | Posted on Sunday, June 18, 2006 - 09:29 pm: |
|
Not quite sure how deep you dug?? Did you pull the primary cover and replace the gasket?
- If so, did you get the primary chain tensioner situated correctly?
- did you replace just the shift lever or parts all the way in? If you changed shifting parts in the primary, you may not have gotten the shift mechanism adjusted correctly?
- if you never dug into the primary, but replaced derby cover gaskets, maybe you should go back and re-check the clutch cable adjustment.
Henrik |
Suzypoozie
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 21, 2006 - 02:46 pm: |
|
Hey Henrik - Thanks for responding. Yes I did replace the gasket, and the chain tensioner is situated correctly NOW...but at first that was an issue for me.
Here is what I have figured out...and please bear with me as I am so not a mechanic... I removed the primary chain cover and peeked in to see that the rod that comes out that the shifter attaches to was pulled forward and down slightly ... just enough to make whatever it is attached to in there pull forward into the gears...scratching the hell out of it. Make sense? Well, upon further investigation, my friends determined that the dowel rods were removed when the gasket was replaced, and they are necesary (my friend that helped me said they were not), and also the brass bushing on the primary cover that the rod comes through was damaged a bit, enlarging it, and possibly allowing the rod to lay lower than it should. Also, I changed the shifter so now it doesn't come from above to the pedal, but goes below...At any rate, I think my new mechanic friend is on the right track... what do you think? Is it normal for that rod to be very loose?
Thanks!!!! |
Henrik
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 21, 2006 - 08:04 pm: |
|
Sounds like the shift arm got pushed out to where it contacted the clutch basket.
The dowels are indeed very necessary - they help keep the primary cover in place and aligned.
Here are a couple of threads on a similar topic - you may need to take a look at your detent plate as well as the pins in the shift drum the detent plate "rests" in:
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show.cgi?tpc=3842&post=462987#POST 462987
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show.cgi?tpc=3842&post=155425#POST 155425
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show.cgi?tpc=3842&post=71645#POST7 1645
Don't remember exactly - I believe there is a little bit of "slop" in the shift shaft when the primary is off.
The brass bushing in the brass cover is the shift shaft seal. You should replace that. Ease the old one out and press in the new one - doesn't take much. When you go to put the primary cover back on, wrap electrical tape around the splines to protect the seal - the splines can cut it on the way through.
Henrik |
Suzypoozie
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 28, 2006 - 11:37 pm: |
|
Thank you so much for your help. Got it back together and it looks/feels pretty good. Forgot to buy more oil though, so I won't be able to test it out until tomorrow. |
Henrik
| | Posted on Thursday, June 29, 2006 - 09:41 am: |
|
Glad you got it worked out - and yeah, wait until you have some oil in the primary before testing 
Henrik |
Firemanjim
| | Posted on Thursday, June 29, 2006 - 11:16 am: |
|
The brass bushing is separate from shift shaft seal and lies just inside the seal in the cover.Never had to mess with it.The shift shaft will be fairly loose with the cover off as it provides the outboard support. |
Henrik
| | Posted on Thursday, June 29, 2006 - 02:15 pm: |
|
Fireman; Thanks for correcting my mistake.
Henrik |
Wke4estguy
| | Posted on Friday, January 02, 2009 - 01:41 pm: |
|
First post, so go easy on me...
My Blast was slow to crank over the past few
weeks (40s in the morning) so I checked battery voltage v= 11.7.
Yesterday my engine wouldn't turn over, so I pushed the bike and popped the clutch to start it, and it was fine.
My bike then died because I forgot to turn on the fuel, so I repeated
the push and pop procedure and got the bike to start again.
I drove it all the way to work, and parked it for the day.
That afternoon I tried the push and pop once, but my rear tire locked
and I didn't get it to start.
Thereafter, whenever I put it in 1st it doesn't matter if the clutch
is
pulled in or not, the bike won't roll if it is in gear, but will roll
in neutral.
The clutch cable seems to be fine, because I can see it move along
the length of the cable housing whenever I squeeze it. The lever
springs
back in place whenever I release it.
My question is, do you think it is the clutch cable, clutch release
mechanism (the ramp/release bearing), starter ring gear, or something
more sinister and more expensive that is causing my problem. |
Sparky
| | Posted on Saturday, January 03, 2009 - 02:05 pm: |
|
Sounds like a normal situation given the circumstances.
Because the temps are so low and the clutch is bathed in oil, increased oil viscosity makes the clutch drag when cold.
Try using third or fourth gear when push starting instead of the lower gears so that the tire can get a better mechanical advantage to turn the motor over. |
|
Troubleshooting (Poor Starting/Running/Handling/Ride Issues) »
Archive through February 28, 2007 »
Clutch not engaging