| Author | Message | ||
     Buellgrrrl |
Was getting started on the 40,000 mile service on my M2L today. Started by checking the clutch adjustment, as it seemed to be draggin a bit. Sure enough the cable is fraying at the lever end... Good thing I've got a spare. This means I have to deal with the two of the oddball T27 screws holding the clutch cover on that have nearly welded themselves to the housing despite being properly torqued. With some creative use of a Craftman stripped head screw remover, hammer, and chisel they finally surrender. The screws look like high quality pot metal, and I resolve to hunt down some better quality replacements. After having to release of all stupid things a frame to stabilzer bolt the old cable comes off. Installing the new cable goes normally, until I tighten the threaded end and it busts right off at modest torque. So now I have two trashed cables, and I have to dig out another busted Buell fastener. Now granted I've been spoiled working on BMWs since 1984, but this Buell experience is reminding of the bad old days of Japanese bikes, when bolts would routinely break off while loosening them on brand new Japanese bikes. Given the crudeness of these and some other Buell parts, one gets the feeling that the Motor Company is buying this stuff from the low bidder, quality be damned. Given Buell's past reputation for unrealiability it might be wise of them to set there quality standards a bit higher. Fortunately Dennis Kirk 60 miles away lists a Barnett replacement in stock and they're open Sunday... No point in waiting a month for the not so friendly Buell dealer to cough up another junk one. But every time I have to use a 20+ year old BMW to chase parts for a 5 year old Buell I question the wisdom of buying another Buell. | ||
| Djkaplan |
The first accessory I bought for my Buell was an allen head bolt kit to replace the ridiculous T27s. They sell them at all Harley dealers. | ||
| Whodom |
Buellgrrrl, Lots of people have trouble with the clutch cover torx bolts. I put anti-seize on mine the last couple of times and that seems to help with removal. The end fitting on the clutch cable that goes into the primary is aluminum (I did the same thing as you with a brand-new cable right after I got my bike). It doesn't need to be tightened much more than hand-tight; the o-ring doesn't need much pressure to seal. As aggravating as that is, I'll bet it's aluminum for a very good reason: in the event of a mishap it'd be better to break off the clutch cable fitting than to tear a hole in your primary cover. My bike had been wrecked before I got it and the cable fitting snapped off right at the primary cover. If it had been a steel part, I'll bet it would have wrecked the primary cover. | ||
| Bugman |
I've got news for you Bueullgirl. H-D does much the same thing with their Big Twins and Sportsters. They source parts from low bidders quality be dammed. i am now discovering this with my XB12. | ||
| Pcmodeler |
I totally understand your frustration. I just removed the bolts holding down the rear sprocket and pulley. Ruined two T-45's, stripped 2 of the 6 bolts on the rotor and 5 of the 6 on the pulley. Had to use a vice grip and a propane torch to remove the stripped ones. The issue was primarily that the bolt was closer to a T-47 than a T-45, so there was way too much wiggle room and it caused the head of the driver to strip. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
If you're the first person to remove a bolt that was installed from the factory five years ago, you will have a struggle on your hands. A trick I found is to take a brass drift and whack the heads of the bolts. Do this BEFORE you strip out the heads. I found this when I took off my front brake rotor or the first time. Also, I have been burned when I torqued the clutch cover down to the book's specs. I just do them by feel now. (perhaps my torque wrench sucks?) Also also, the geometry of the clutch cover makes it so that if you torque one side all the way and then the opposite all the way, it seems to act like a lever. You should torque them down in increments. | ||
| Buellgrrrl |
First, kudos to Dennis Kirk for being open today, and they were doing a good business. I picked up the clutch cable and a tire for the GS as long as I was taking the trip. Being pot metal, it was easy to tap a screwdriver into the busted off remains of the threaded ferrule and remove it. The replacement looked to be at least equal in quality to OEM and was easier to install. I sucked out the gear oil with the Pela oil sucker, saving the hassle of disturbing that drain plug buried above the muffler. After refilling a couple common 1/4 inch bolts filled in for the rounded out Harley junk until I can get some proper Allen head replacements. The temp outside being in the 90s but 75 in my shop, I tightened the primary chain a wee bit and changed the oil. So the 40K service is about half done, and the bike is ridable tomorrow if I wish | ||
| Jersey_thunder |
H-D does much the same thing with their Big Twins and Sportsters. They source parts from low bidders quality be dammed say it isn't so....HD not give a dam about quality...LIE!!!  ..I kill my self!! jt | ||
| Tramp |
actually, those bolts were installed correctly by the factory- the flaw lies in the design of the domed cover. no need for tapping or extractor-tools the domed cover creates tension against the boltheads, while the threads, themselves, are torqued correctly. after rehating/cooling the engine for many cycles, the dome-shape of the cover presses more and more against the bolt heads, and becomes so tight (the threads are actually reverse-contacted) that we strip them out in our efforts to spin'em. next time you find a machine with this problem, either: A. heat, with torch or gun, the outer edge of the cover, keeping heat-medium moving at all times in circles (works only some of the time), or B. grind off (with a simple drill bit) the head of the screws, and you'll see the cover pop up. the remaining studs will turn out with only finger pressure, because they were never over-torqued, to begin with...it was tensile pressure on the heads which caused the issue. no need for tapping. when you replace the cover (preferably with allens), make a nice, thich washer of three-bond or permatex around the outside of the cover holes, and let it set up with the screws just touching it. torque them slightly, after it sets up. this will give you enough isolastic for taking the tension up. (i think I've done 50 of these in the past couple decades) in the future, don't suck your old trans-oil out. take the extra 5 minutes and remove the plug. it has a magnet which holds all of the ferrous shearings- they often release back into suspension and do much wear damage. always clean your magnetized drain plug with every oil change...it's worth the extra time | ||
| Jon |
Tramp, Wow..way to give the full view. Good to have you around again. | ||
| Tramp |
Thanks, Jon. good to be around  | ||
| Buellgrrrl |
Tramp, good to hear from you again and thanks for the advice- I'd forgotten about the magnet on the drain plug. | ||
| Tramp |
Thanks, Buellgrrrl.... keep kickin' butt on that scoot.... as the back of a shirt in JT's shop reads: "if you can read this, the (girl) just passed you!"  |
