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Hogluvr
| | Posted on Sunday, July 17, 2005 - 12:21 pm: | 
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Hey all,
Just bought the wife an '01 Blast yesterday, looking for a good lift to work on this thing. I have a CenterStand for my '98 S1 (great lift!), but don't see anything similar for a Blast. Are there any options other than a rear swingarm/front fork set of lifts? If this is the only option out there, how the heck would you work on front/rear suspension, since it would be loaded up with this type of lift? Any recommendations/best prices out there??
Thanks,
hogluvr |
Rockbiter1
| | Posted on Sunday, July 17, 2005 - 01:27 pm: |
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I remove the exhaust, and use a standard bike lift ($50 harbor frieght, or sears at $99; prices vary wildly depending on who makes the lift, some are up to $250) on the bottom of the engine case. The bottom is relatively flat, so the bike is very stable, and I can get both ends off the ground at the same time.
Of course, this requires an intimate relationship with your exhaust mounting bolts...The stock muffler is very strong, and can support the bike, but them you'll have stability issues (strap the bike carefully) |
Swampy
| | Posted on Sunday, July 17, 2005 - 05:35 pm: |
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OK Pictures:
Step 1) Put 2X6 under kickstand
Step 2) Lean bike onto kickstand
Step 3) Place jackstand under the frame in "Y" between front and rear foot peg on the right side.
Step 4) Lean bike to right side put kickstand up and put second jackstand under the left frame in "Y" between front and rear foot peg on the left side.
It should look like this. Provides a solid support for removing rear wheel and such.
Just reverse order to get it down.
For the front I run the front tire up on the same 2X6 block and suspend the front of the bike from straps hanging from the ceiling. |
Berkshire
| | Posted on Saturday, April 29, 2006 - 08:53 am: |
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My brake lines hang down too low to put a stand under the "fork" of the right peg bracket as shown in the pic above, so I put the stands under the passenger peg ends of the brackets, with cardboard in between to keep from scratching up the paint.
If you don't need to work on the rear wheel or suspension, then this setup will work:
It looks like the axle is bent, but that's just a wide-angle lens effect. The hardware is a pair of 1/2"x8" carriage bolts w/ nuts.
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Berkshire
| | Posted on Sunday, June 25, 2006 - 09:45 am: |
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Do NOT use the above technique WITH SHORT BOLTS!!!
The first time I lifted my Blast this way I used some 7/16" bolts that I had laying around. They were only about 3" long, so they didn't stick very far into the axle. Also, because of the loose fit with the smaller diameter, the bolts angled upward toward the ends, which made the jackstands sit way out at the ends. This put a lot of torque concentrated at the ends of the axles. Sitting my fat ass on the bike probably didn't help either!
The net result was that the rear axle was bowed about 1/32" - so it WAS bent when the above pic was taken, but not BY the above setup, and not as much as it appears to be. It wasn't enough to be seen "just looking at it". I rode about 500 miles with it that way and didn't notice anything unusual. I found it when when I changed my rear tire, by rolling the axle over a flat surface at eye level (I like to check everything!) The bearings and everything seemed to be okay. The new axle was about $25, IIRC.
I am still confident with the above setup, since the 1/2" bolts fit snugly and distribute the force well. I'm absolutely certain that the problem was caused by the 302 Ford head bolts I'd used the previous time.} |
Berkshire
| | Posted on Sunday, June 25, 2006 - 10:24 am: |
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Oh yeah...
Obviously the axle-lift setup doesn't work when changing a tire!
Since I had the wheel off, I figured I'd also take the swingarm off and paint it.
...and the peg-hanger brackets.
...and the tail section.
...and the exhaust, and the handlebars.
If you have the exhaust off, you'll notice that there's a very sturdy bracket bolted to the back of tranny at the bottom. It's wide and flat, and when the bike is standing straight up, the bottom side of the bracket is just slightly lower than a cinder block with a 2x4 on top of it.
Cinder blocks come in various shapes and sizes. The one I used is pretty close to being an 8" or 9" square, not one of the more common rectangular ones. It has a hole thru the middle.
I put the block down with the hole on the top side, and a 2x4 about 10" or 11" long on top of the block. Then I leaned the bike to one side and removed the axle stand, then the other side. With the 2x4 right under the kickstand/exhaust bracket, and the back half of the cinder block under the 2x4, it allowed easy access to the back half of the bike.
I put everything back on the bike with it sitting on the block, except the exhaust. It was just high enough to allow me to put the back wheel on, and install the belt with the tire rubbing on the concrete. To get the bike "down", I just leaned it way over left. I'm pretty sure that it could be put "up" on the block using the reverse technique, with just a little muscle - as long as the exhaust is removed first. |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Sunday, June 25, 2006 - 01:21 pm: |
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How about just go to a hardware store and get a rod that goes all the way through the axle! |
Berkshire
| | Posted on Sunday, June 25, 2006 - 08:00 pm: |
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That was my plan at first, but I measured the axle I.D. at about .496", and the 1/2" rods were about .504", so it wouldn't fit.
edit: I also like the rounded heads of the carriage bolts - sooner or later they'll probably save me from bloody & painful accident!
(Message edited by Berkshire on June 25, 2006) |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Sunday, June 25, 2006 - 08:38 pm: |
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7/16 works fine but doesnt have the 'safety ends'! |
Swampy
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 27, 2006 - 11:09 pm: |
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For the good of mankind and Blasters everywhere here is a picture of the front end lifted with rachet straps the ceiling. First I rolled the front end up on a 2X6, then set the rachet straps to the inside of the handlebar clamps to keep them from sliding out towards the ends, The rachet straps are angled ever so slightly towards the back of the bike to keep it pinned against the wall to keep it from moving around too much.
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Marijane0569
| | Posted on Thursday, July 06, 2006 - 10:19 pm: |
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Well I think I have about the easyist way for me to lift my blast. It is called a TOW TRUCK. lol
"MJ"
P.S. sorry I just couldn't resist |
Hld01blast
| | Posted on Saturday, April 18, 2009 - 09:16 pm: |
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I bought a 3/8" steel rod and 2 jack stands today to try to raise the rear wheel so that I could adjust the timing on the bike. However, since a jack cannot easily be used on the bike without removing the exhaust, I could not figure out how to get the rear up enough to set the jack stands up to where the the rod through the axle lifts the rear wheel off the ground. Tried rolling the rear onto some wood and then setting the stands but the steel rod ended up bent and the tire still on the ground.
Any advice for actually getting the tire up off the ground? |
Evilbetty
| | Posted on Sunday, April 19, 2009 - 09:50 pm: |
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I usually put the rod though, then raise one jack stand up as high as it will go underneath the rod on the right side of the bike. Then I use a car jack with a small piece of wood on top under the left swing arm to raise it high enough to get the jack stand down on the other side.
Reverse steps to remove it from the stands. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE KICK STAND DOWN WHEN YOU LOWER IT! 
I got lazy the last time I did it and just picked the back left side of the bike off of the stand by hand but when I went to lower it I realized I didn't have the stand down... just about dropped it on myself. I barely got the stand down with my foot before I lost the strength (holding the bike with one hand, balancing on one foot). |
Reuel
| | Posted on Sunday, May 03, 2009 - 10:44 pm: |
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I personally use the heave method. I get the right side jack stand under the drill bit, lift the bugger up, and have my wife push the left jack stand under the drill bit. Drill bit? Sorry--forgot to mention. I have a 1/2" drill bit that's about 2 feet long that I put through the rear axle.  |
Eyezak
| | Posted on Thursday, June 21, 2012 - 05:03 pm: |
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Have 2008 Blast, need to know how the best way to adjust the clutch? Thanks Ron |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Thursday, June 21, 2012 - 11:42 pm: |
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Not being a smartass but how about per the repair manual?
Do you have a repair manual?
Or didnt I understand the question? |
Cvc
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 18, 2017 - 03:04 pm: |
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I know it is an old thread but a long 3/8 drive extention has worked with jack stands and backed up under my engine hoist with nylon straps to her bars on the front |
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