| Author | Message | ||
     Djkaplan |
Hahaa..., I like it! I love the catch cans in this breather thread. It's the one area where the owners creativity can really shine (or not). Where exactly are you going to mount it? | ||
| Ricky |
Where is the drain spigot? | ||
| Alnagy |
New to this site - have a 2000 M-2 same problem. Saw a solution on 'Buell World' website in the tech area. I'm running a Forcewinder and venting to K&N's little filter, but it's like an old panhead - a constant loss system (well, not exactly). My worry was venting that goop into the stock air box. Won't some of that stuff get sucked into the carb? Pulled my heads yesterday and the intake valves have more build-up of carbon and crap (technical term) than they should. Could this be the reason? | ||
| Reepicheep |
Alnagy... exactly. The stock setup vents ALL the spooge (correct technical term, don't be vulgar and call it crap  ) into the carb, where it is immediately ingested into the engine. That keeps the EPA happy, but not your engine. That being said, a lot of the gunk is water, of which your engine breathes plenty anyway, and draining the catch cans (or not draining them, and having your right leg of every pair of pants you own covered in a fine mist of oil) is a headache, so I can't say venting it back into the carb is the worst solution either. I did what sounds like the exact thing totway did. Stock breather plugs, very short section of pcv (pressure crankcase valve, not poly vinyl chloride plumbing stuff) tubing from napa, to a pcv tee from napa, with a loop all the way around the bottom. The top is a short loop with more of the same pcv line hooked to a custom chrome dual nipple filter. I put some braided stainless webbing on it for looks (also at my local napa). The bottom loop works as a primitive catch can. Sort of. Still mists my right leg just a little all the time, and gives me a nice slimeing if I forget to drain it for a while, but all in all it is a simple, cheap, and easy setup. I will probably replace the tubing with clear this spring just to make it easier to keep an eye on. | ||
| Ara |
Blaster, that's really a nice piece of work. I've always thought that a dual hose barb approach was superior than teeing the breather lines together. When finished, please post a photo with a ruler or scale next to it. | ||
| Blaster420 |
And the answers are, The drain is going to be a 1/4" straight fitting on the bottom (the rest of the money I saved to the person who can balance this can on that jk). I am pretty sure that I am going to mount it on the strap holding the battery. I still have to get some hose to run (love the tool room at work). I don't work until Friday night so I should be ready to mount it this weekend. Oh wait, I still don't have the bike back yet. Guess I need to make a little noise. Ben | ||
| Blaster420 |
I just couldn't wait to finish it. Here it is.   The fittings are tighter than I thought they would be. It handles the shake test well. I haven't done the drain yet. I think I will tap that for a small petcock type since that will be a "no stress" connection. Now if my S2 were here... Ben | ||
| Aesquire |
Neato!  Far more trick than my planned redbull can. | ||
| Ricky |
Here is my poor man's version of an oil catch can: First, gather the parts.  Next, put them together.  Still need to get the clamps. Going to use Loom Clamps. (I'm guessing $2.00 total.) So far you are looking at $21.00 USD. This is for the folks who don't have access to a shop for welding and such. | ||
| Rick_A |
Cool can ideas! I'll stick to my tube, though... | ||
| Doncasto |
 I used the PVC approach, but found that its placement caused some worrisome melting of the plastic in its first version. I solved it by using a convenient sheet metal shield. You may read any commentary into the cosmetics that you choose. It has a filter as well as separate lines to the head breathers, a crankcase breather and the primary/transmission overflow. Don | ||
| Kinger |
Anyone know the approximate cost of the Jaz Catch can. I am looking at the 1 pint mini breather. I have tried calling them for a price and have not been able to get through. Thanks | ||
| Roadrunr |
Kinger, I paid $45 for mine. I dont think you can get them from jaz, I think you have to go through a jaz dealer. I had to order mine through a race shop (AUTO) by me. | ||
| Kinger |
Thanks Roadrunr. I saw one on e-bay and didn't want to end up paying too much for it. I will look for a dealer near me. | ||
| Bomber |
Yo, Ben . . . .what did you use for the ends on your catchcan . . . in some of the pics, they look like aluminum freeze plugs or something, but that doesn't seem likely, as they wouldn't be thick enough to take threads | ||
| Blaster420 |
Bomber, the caps are cut from a 1/4" al plate, then TIG welded on. It is really funny, there are a lot of Harley owners at work that keep asking me what that is and if I think it will help them out. I just laugh and tell them "I don't know?". Ben | ||
| Bomber |
yeah . . . i've had the same experience with the HD riders that see mine . . . . .I'm on my 10 or 11th can (some never make it out of the shop)and am always interested in learning how others do things . . . .. . . the reason I keep rinding this board is all the great data . . .. thanks, sir | ||
| Djkaplan |
I love this thread! PVC pipes, tomato-coffee-beer cans, Tupperware..., the possibilities are endless. | ||
| Ara |
Ricky, that's pretty clever and good looking, too. How did you affix the brass and chrome parts to the PVC? Threaded, glued? Russ | ||
| Ricky |
The brass spigot and drain are threaded in. Drill and tap. Those threads are 'pipe threads', as in tapered. Chrome? You mean the breather? Drill an undersized hole - heat the rubber on the air filter and push into the hole. It saves a lot of room when it's down flush like that. No way is that coming out, either. All that pvc stuff you see is schedule 40. Meaning, really thick stuff. Paint is Rust-o-liumn(sp) texture finish black. Matches the engine perfect. (883R) I'll post more pictures later. | ||
| Az_M2 |
Here's my very simple, very cheap setup (modified since last post).   | ||
| Aaron |
I like that, using the hose as a catch can. Buell does that on the Blast, too. | ||
| Ara |
Az_M2, I have something similar but the clear tubing I have tends to yellow rather quickly. What material is catch tube made of? | ||
| Az_M2 |
It's clear vinyl tubing from Ace Hardware @ 0.39 a foot. How soon before your's starts to yellow? | ||
| Ara |
Yup, that's the same stuff. Polyethelyne, I think. The rate of yellowing probably depends on temperature. You've got yours well away from the jugs, so your tubing might stay clear longer than mine. Mine hasn't gotten brittle, BTW, just yellow. How do you have your breather filter tied down, Arizona? It looks like it's just held by the tee, but I can't see the whole thing. Somebody recently mentioned some tubing for the breathers from NAPA. Anybody? Is it clear or the usual black rubber? Anything clear that would stand up to chemicals and temperature would be really useful, as it enables you to visually check the fluid level in the catch tubes. Russ | ||
| Ricky |
Here are some pictures of the catch can mounted on a Sportster. (complete with dirty finger prints)    | ||
| Ricky |
Here is a side shot.  | ||
| Jim_Witt |
Looks sweet to me! -JW:>  | ||
| Az_M2 |
Russ, I went to Napa first to get clear tubing, but the store I went to didn't sell it. To answer your question, yes, the filter is just held in place by the tee. I just twisted the tee to force the filter back up against the battery. It's solid. Chris | ||
| Ara |
Thanks, Chris. I'll see if my own local NAPA has it. If they do, can I pick some up for you? 3/8 inch diameter, right? How many yards do you want? :-) Russ |
