| Author | Message | ||
     Troy5341 |
I have a 2000 M2 with 8000 miles. I have searched the forums for my problem but nothing seems to fit exactly. The reason I went to adjust the clutch was that when I would go from neutral to 1st the bike would clunk (wouldn't} sync up) and pull a little fwd. I drained primary and found a good amount of shavings} on the magnet. Refilled with Sporttrans from harley store to correct level. Adjusted primary chain. 1. Slacked cable adjuster 2. When I went to bottom out the clutch adjustment (counter clockwise) I noticed some resista}nce for about 4 turns prior to bottom. When I went back a 1/4 turn the clutch handle was almost impossible to pull. The service manual says that when reinstalling clutch that you adjust it till you feel resistance and then go to the other chapter so to do your clutch adjustment. This in turn tells you to bottom and then come out 1/4. I'm getting frustrated and would like some advice. Again my initial problem was the clunk into 1st and then do I bottom out till resistance or to hard bottom? If so why so tight on the handle? } | ||
| Buellistic |
Troy5341: SHAVINGS(fine metal): 1) Running you primary chain too tight, adjust the primary chain to 3/4 inch on the tight spot ... IF YOUR CHAIN IS EATING INTO THE PLASTIC of the adjustment SHOE ASM. that is the first indication your primary chain has been adjusted TOO TIGHT !!! Do not say the manual says as the manual is wrong !!! DRIVE BELT SHOULD BE ADJUSTED TO 2 inches on the tight spot !!! 2)The SPRING PLATE PN 37977-90 has gone bad and your clutch will not stay in adjustment ... Even with the clutch adjusted correctly and all parts therein good you will get a lite clunk ... If you have not replaced this SPRING PLATE it will cause you trouble later if you do not ,,, This is a "PRODUCT IMPROVEMENT" where by you replace the SPRING PLATE PN 37977-90 with two STEEL PLATEs PN 37913-90 and one FRICTION PLATE PN 37911-90 for a better longer lasting clutch ... If YOU follow the directions correctly in the manual it will put you very close to correct ... One has to adjust a lot of these clutches to realy get the feel when it is CORRECT !!! WANT SOME BELT/PRIMART CHAIN "INFO" PIMG ME ... Ljenne73c@verizon.net | ||
| Jackbequick |
It sounds like you're doing it right but you don't want to bottom that screw out to hard stop. Just turn it clockwise (it should be turning very freely on its bearing) until you feel the well nut make light contact. Then back off 1/4 turn (or a little more if necessary to get the hex shaped lock plate to drop in). If that adjusting screw does not turn freely and continuously in both directions with the well nut removed, the bearing may be failing. When the screw is turned CCW with the well nut in place, it pulls the well nut down until it touches the bottom of the well. That's when you want to back off the 1/4 turn. That 1/4 turn takes the load off the bearing when the clutch is engaged. You may have been ignoring or missing the initial contact and going for a full hard stop. Doing that should have the same effect as pulling the clutch lever, it should disengage the clutch. I think. :>  Jack | ||
| Patrickh |
I think you have 2 things happening at the same time. There is something happening with your primary chain adjuster. I believe that the shoe may have broken because of the shavings and the adjustment trouble. Also, the circlip on your detent plate may have popped off. This would cause the hard shifting. Is it difficult finding neutral? | ||
| Troy5341 |
It raining like hell today and I'll be in the garage. I'm going to readjust the chain (3/4), lower idle rpms down a little to 1000, and try to readjust clutch without hard bottoming. It's not hard to find neutral. I'm going to try these things prior to getting into the primary. Thanks for your polite advice and I'll let you know how it turns out today. Troy | ||
| Troy5341 |
Adjusting the primary chain was a B. The locking nut was hard to move from it's original position but now is good to go. Idle speed been put to a little over 1000 and clutch was adjusted. I haven't been able to get on the roads yet, (still raining). Everything seemed fine going around the block though. It still likes to give a little clunk now when going to 1st from N. Thanks to you guys posting back, I have more confidence in the adjustment. I will keep my eye out for any other issues with the clutch and heed some of the suggestions above if they creep up. Again thanks. Troy | ||
| Sparky |
Troy, I have found a little workaround exercise that helps to minimize, if not eliminate, the clunk when shifting into first gear (sometimes). Basically the idea is to unstick the clutch plates from each other before shifting into first gear. This can be done in a couple of ways. One way is with the engine off, shift into gear, pull in the clutch and try to push the motorcycle with the clutch plates disengaged. It's hard, isn't it? One reason is viscous oil drag between the plates. Another way I found is with the engine running in neutral, pull in the clutch lever all the way, and rev the engine quickly from idle about 5 times. Then with the clutch lever still in and engine idling, shift into first. More often than not, it will snick into gear quietly. Sometimes with my bike though, it doesn't, but the revving sounds cool.  YMMV - It may work for you, or it may not. Sparky | ||
| Sloppy |
To avoid the "1st gear clunk", from Neutral, I hold the clutch lever in for about 10 seconds. Then I click it into gear with no clunk. | ||
| Buellistic |
The clutch MUST BE PROPERLY ADJUSTED ... Clutch plates must be broke loose ... The CLUTCH LEVER MUST BE PULLED "ALL" the way back to the handlebar ... | ||
| Samc |
And when the spring plate goes south, you might be shocked at the price of two steel and a friction plate. I got a complete Barnett "extra plate" Kevlar clutch pack for my old Heritage ("Tinker Belle") for less than just the three OEM pieces from my stealer; er, dealer. | ||
| Jimidan |
Its a Harley...the 1st gear clunk is just part of the character of the machine. If you want a really smooth tranny that doesn't clunk, get a Honda. Which is worse, revving the crap out of your cold engine five times (regardless of how cool it may sound) to shake the oil out from between the plates or hearing a little clunk when you drop it into first? Jimidan |
