| Author | Message | ||
     Gearheaderiko |
Unless your dealer is really up on Blasts and Buells, use that as a last resort. Chances are you've messed something up on jet installation. Needle setting changed, float adjustment,improper diaphram assembly,etc. Retrace your steps but do not change anything that you didnt mess with before. (IE: dont start messing with the spark plug or timing if they hadn't been touched). You can always change the carb back (except the hole) and then see what happens too the power. That will tell you for sure you messed something up. The PS air cleaner wont make that much of a difference in running (if at all). Others will check in with their thoughts as I've only used factory jets and never drilled that hole. | ||
| Swampy |
I have not enlarged the vacuum hole either, so I couldn't tell you. Check this site out: http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hd_cv_mods.htm At the bottom of the instruction page there are instructions on tuning. I however, would begin by checking the slide diaphragm. | ||
| Bueller492 |
Thanks for the advice. I will go over everything this weekend and post the results. Has anybody else used the dyno-jet kit and did you need to fine tune anything afterward? | ||
| Bueller492 |
You guys are great! The slide diaphragm was pinched. My Blast runs like a raped ape! | ||
| Berkshire |
Does anybody know where I might find a shorter version of one of these:  Basically, I'm looking for one that's closer to the length of the stock venturi ring on the Blast (P0241.T), except without the two flattened off sides - a full circle like the one above, but not as long. I checked the parts books for some carbureted Buells, but the closest thing I found was a flat looking spacer ring (29265-88). | ||
| Ezblast |
Kurykan? A HD billit fabricator - makes Carb spacers for the intake of different sizes for CV40 carb - anyone got a link or at least correct spelling? GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Ezblast |
http://www.kuryakyn.com/index.asp This is it http://www.kuryakyn.com/category.asp?bn=harley&cn=Air+Cleaners&sn=Air+Cleaner+Accessories - Enjoy! GT - JBOTDS! EZ (Message edited by ezblast on May 01, 2006) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
EZ Where did you buy the 'Outerwears stack pre filter? American Sport Bike says they dont carry them and every other website (including Outerwears) doesnt list a B-15. Does it fit the American Sport Bike (pictured above) velocity stack or just the traditional bell type stack? (I dont remember what yours looks like and I do know I can special order one from Outerwears). | ||
| Ezblast |
I'll post it tonight - I know they changed the stock #, however, I bought some new ones just before the SLO ride - and they are sitting in my new spare parts box - lol - so I'll take a look at them when I get home and post the results. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
Here you go! 135-B 10-1267-01 one or the other should work! Going to max breathing eh? - Enjoy! GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Thanks EZ, which vendor? Really just eliminating parts rather than concerned with more air flow. I dont like running without some kind of screen on the carb. One little dump in the dirt and your sucking in sandpaper. | ||
| Ezblast |
Outerwears the vendor - yeah if you plow into rocks - still might have problems - lol - however, I've dropped the bike a few times and never had a problem - but almost always on pavement, only twice on rocky dirt - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
The infield & outfield at the track is all dirt or gravel and thats pretty much where the bike is gonna end up if it goes down! Also there arent going to be any safety switches left so it'll keep running until the carb is out of gas. Thanks again PS are you running the velocity stack pictured above or the 'bell' type? (Message edited by gearheaderiko on May 04, 2006) | ||
| Ezblast |
As pictured above for max knee clearance - 3 1/2" band clamp holds the filter in place - to preserve filter cleanliness - I baggie the carb with a ziplock - the EZ security system - lol - keeps dust from even getting near filter when not in use - bags last around 3 months - ( by the way - try the Iridium plug I'm using - definate stronger hit - the race plug - noticed on both bikes - ran the regular Iridium before - AW says they will burn through oil - lol) GT - JBOTDS! EZ (Message edited by ezblast on May 04, 2006) | ||
| Berkshire |
http://www.kuryakyn.com/category.asp?bn=harley&cn=Air+Cleaners&sn=Air+Cleaner+Ac essories thanks! that #8510 looks just right  | ||
| Swampy |
Has anyone enlarged the vacuum port on the slide? And if anyone has was it an improvement? | ||
| Sarodude |
Swampy- I believe the only thing that will change is the response time of the slide. I also wonder if the slide would start to flutter more that way. Dynojet recommends drilling it out - with a drill bit supplied in their kit. Lotsa online sites do the same. I'd stay away from it - but that's just me. -Saro | ||
| Ezblast |
Am now experimenting with Turbo-times aftermarket intake hose - curtisy of Jim N. - lol - will let you know - installation was very difficult due to no positive stops - almost two person - one to keep carb properly aligned, another to do the clamps - lol - carrying extra boot and clamps - just in case - tomorrow is the acid test - the trip to work and home again later - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Berkshire |
My original plan was to ditch the stock airbox and put something sturdy like this:  between the plastic venturi and the carb, and then clamp on a rubber elbow of some sort. Then attach an oval-shaped K&N with offset connection, and I'd have a low-budget homemade "pro series". ...but it looks like the parts would run about $60, and none of the standard plumbing stuff is the right size. I'd have to go rummaging around at a junkyard to find a car with a useable intake elbow, and even then I wouldn't have the spiffy rain cover like the pro series has. Then I thought about modding the stock airbox, but I remembered some things I really hate about it: It blocks access to the idle mixture adjustment screw. It's a PITA to remove & install it. It gets in the way of things when working on the bike. It blocks the view of that beautiful cylinder. It detracts from the "naked" look. It visually obscures the fact that the bike has just ONE cylinder. So (you guessed it!), I'm getting a PS intake! | ||
| Xgecko |
The fitting you show above is what I used to make my intake. Though the design I borrowed from Ray. It only takes a little time to Sand down an ABS elbow so it will fit inside. I think my total cost including the filter was under $40. | ||
| Jugallo94 |
If you go with the Pro series make sure you make a bracket or some other means to support the carb. Since I have loctited my bolts for my bracket I have had no problems with the boot tearing. Without some sort of support you will be replacing a lot of intake boots. I went through three in one season and 2500 miles. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
But there is no guarantee you'll even tear one intake boot without the brace.The boot is the weak link, but not a guaranteed failure. With or without a brace, when running anything but the stock airbox keep an eye on the boot. Any kind of running problem-check the boot! | ||
| Cwizzle |
ok gearhead i am running a stock carb and airbox. after getting on this thread earlier i decided to take a ride to publix a grocery store to get a boars head sub. Well i went out to leave i started the motor only to hear a large pop. this has happened before usually resulting in a large rush of air coming out of the intake hole but when i restart i could hear the air coming out of the right side i looked at the boot and blam a rip on the top about 1/3 the way around now running a stock airbox why did this happen and how do i prevent this from reacurring thanks maybe i got jinxed | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Well intake boots do also fail with the stock airbox but not from the stress of an unsupported carb. Check all the usual culprits of backfiring through the intake: Excessively lean fuel mixture (can be caused by an already torn boot, holding the throttle wide open when starting, stuck open choke/enrichener, incorrect jetting and idle screw adjustment,etc). Bad ignition timing, module, plug wire. Intake valve sticking open. Plugged fuel tank vent (also bad rollover valve). There may be other causes (these just of the top of my head). A reason the Blast is more prone to intake boot failure than on a twin is that if a twin backfires through the carb it has more area to expand-the other side of the intake & cylinder. All the force is not shoved straight into the carb like on the Blast. | ||
| Cwizzle |
how much does the boot cost please | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
part# 27443-00Y $9.25 list Xgecko/Tony has used a plumbing coupler in a pinch. Search for his recent post or e-mail him if you need to go this route. | ||
| Xgecko |
furnace couplers work well at present I'm testing/using a metal reenforced (read as rubber boot with a metal sleeve over it) coupler which if it lasts the summer will make me sooooo happy. | ||
| Cwizzle |
thanks gear sweet ill go order pick it up tomarow really a buzz kill when u have to call ur wife to pick you up at the mall you wernt supposed to be at lol any way i hate having to roll it up an the pu and tote away while cuties laff and snicker ohh went to demo at adamec harley davidson tested the ulyiee and one word woooooooowwww | ||
| Xgecko |
OK I have a problem and I think I know what it is but I need a second opinion. Symptoms 1) heavy popping on decel (more than normal and even going downhill at low throttle) 2) will not idle 3) sucking sound from the carburator (again more than normal) I think it's the vacume seal but since I've not had this problem I wasn't paying attention when someone else had the problem a while back. Anyone got an answer? Thanks | ||
| Buellistic |
Try tightening HOSE CLAMPS on COUPLER, manifold-engine PN 27443-00Y ... |
