| Author | Message | ||
     Lorazepam |
I have a Ulysses, and since new the clutch engages out toward the end of the lever. I have checked the cable as per the manual, and it is in specs. If I adjust the screw behind the clutch inspection cover, will that change where engagement starts? | ||
| Buellistic |
Since you "$$$PAID$$$" the Dealership for set-up, take it back to the Dealer and have the SET IT UP for you !!! That includes Clutch ADJUSTMENT(a "MECHANIC" can set the clutch for small hands or short fingers),"PLUS" the SHOCK PRE-LOAD should hav been set for your weight !!! The copression/rebound should have been set for YOUR WEIGHT ... If this cause any mental stress for them, get yourself a Motors Manual and Parts Book and learn to be a BUELL "MECHANIC" ... Lurk on BWB and you find all kinds of very very usefull "INFORMATION" ... | ||
| Buellistic |
Read you PROFILE: Jerking below 20 mph, KEEP YOU TACHOMETER READING BETWEEN 2500 and 3000 RPM !!! | ||
| Lorazepam |
Ok tell me how to go through a 15 mph school zone and keep the rpms above 2500. I have have been servicing my own motorcycles for years. This is my first V twin and have no experience with this setup. I have a manual, and I looked in it. It doesnt say if this adjustment makes a difference where the engagement point starts. Thanks to both of you for the friendly and helpful advice. | ||
| Mikej |
I have a problem with 25mph zones and usually end up coasting a lot and using the clutch a lot. Kind of like riding in stop and go crawling along rush hour traffic, makes me miss lane splitting at times. These bikes don't have a parade gear like some of the big twins do. That is one comment I've heard a few times from Uly owners where they wish they had a creeper gear for low speed stuff. Probably why Buell calls the Uly an adventure tourer instead of a dual sport. Nevermind Buellistic too much, he gets a little agitated at the way some dealerships conduct business.  He also likes to use the shift key a lot too.  Good info, just lots of bark to go with the good advice.  I don't have a Uly, but do have two other Buells. Sometimes I'd like to swap one of them off on something with a parade gear. | ||
| Buellistic |
Lorazpam: Coast and slip your clutch ... If the clutch adjustment still remains a problem "i" can e-mail the PART NUMBER for an adjustable clutch lever like the break lever ... Can not send now as "i" am out of town ... My e-mail address is Ljenne73c@verizon.net and will get INFO out to you as soon as "i" return home ... In BUELLing LaFayette | ||
| Lorazepam |
it isnt the lever, my fingers are big enough. It is where the clutch starts its engagement. I would rather it start sooner than it does when letting out the lever. It is just personal preference, the clutch isnt slipping. | ||
| Lorazepam |
as far as low speed/low rpm performance, I am suprised that a BMW can idle off, not a GS, an R1150RS (sport tourer) and the Ulysses cant. I could do 10 mph with very little surging. I expected the Vtwin would match it. I have been riding and wrenching over 30 years, have a couple hundred thousand miles on two wheels. I will be purchasing the software to remap the ECM and see if I get a fatter mix in the lower rpm range. | ||
| Bigdaddy |
Lorazepam, You mention that you've already picked up a shop manual -- good move. Sounds to me like you need to adjust the clutch to fit your feel. Clutch adjustments on these bikes, and the HDs, are dead-nutz easy. G2 | ||
| Jackbequick |
On the tubers the secret to smoothing it out some at low RPM/low speed was to go to a richer slow speed jet in the carb so remapping the ECM for low RPM may help. But part of the issue is the gearing. I still find the M2 to be less than real smooth when rolling clutch out around idle RPM. They need to get up to around 1,500-1,800 RPM or so to start smoothing out the power pulses in the drive line. I use my clutch a lot too at slow speeds and the only way around it would be to lower the gearing. If I had a six speed Buell I'd like to add an lower gear to the bottom, not spread the ratios or add an overdrive. With the M2 gearing, idle RPM (1,100 +/-) in low gear works out to about 8 MPH and the gear is good to 52 MPH at the rev limiter. I'd be fine with them taking about 5 MPH off the top and moving it to the bottom. Jack | ||
| Mikej |
The S2 tranny has a slightly different 1-2 gear ratio than the M2 tranny does, so a different 1st or 2nd gear ratio is possible if someone wanted to go to the expense and hassle of getting it done in an otherwise stock format. Andrews or others could probably cut the necessary gears. | ||
| Buellistic |
Decrease the motor sprocket one tooth ... | ||
| Jayvee |
What's the stock motor sprocket teeth count? Anybody know off the top of their head? I just saw some for sale on RevTech's site. I do a lot of in-town,low speed, riding, and this is finally starting to make sense. Although I like the sound of swapping gears with S2 also. But to answer the original question, he's right, right? The little screw behind the clutch cover will adjust the clutch release point? It's been that way on all my previous (Japanese) motorcycles... I haven't done my M2 yet. (Message edited by jayvee on April 28, 2006) | ||
| Jackbequick |
Jayvee, It won't work, it results in not getting a completely disengaged clutch. The screw behind the clutch cover adjusts for the wear in the clutch plates (and to take the load off the throwout bearing). There is a only a small throw or travel there and you need it all for the clutch to fully disengage and fully engage. So backing the screw off will put the lever closer to the bar but then the clutch will not fully disengage when you pull the lever. If you increase the clutch lever freeplay the lever will be closer to the bar when you start pulling the cable but that also means that you have less travel at the actuator and the clutch is not fully disengaging. Jack | ||
| Buellistic |
With ALL the ADJUSTMENT "BACKED OFF" on the CLUTCH CABLE ... The SCREW is "LIGHTLY BOTTOMED"(this is a feel thing from adjusting a lot of clutchs), then back out an 1/8 to 1/4 turn ... An ERROR on my part, should have said INCREASE the NUMBER of TEETH on the MOTOR SPROCKET to increase TORQUE(more RPM's allowing you to PUT-PUT around town easier, BUT your engine will rev too high for highway use(will also decrease TOP END) ... | ||
| Hans |
Buellistic: I think you was right the first time. When you make the driving sprocket *smaller* than the driven sprocket: The driving sprocket has to make more RPMs to keep the same RPMs of the driven sprocket. The electronic speedo read outs will not change in that case. Hans (Message edited by hans on April 28, 2006) | ||
| Buellistic |
"THANKS HANS !!!" Glad someone is making sure, FIRST TIME correct, SECOND TIME "WRONG" ... RIGHT on the speedometer ... | ||
| Hans |
Well, I have myself always such kind of problems. When I have to reset the clock at summer/wintertime, I have to think hard and then I think harder. Then I read the paper, to be sure, and then I have to come to the conclusion that I would have done it wrong.  Hans | ||
| Lorazepam |
Thanks for the replies folks. I guess I will try via the cable to get the feel I want. the manual is a nice one, and I feel pretty confident that I can tackle anything I need to do on the bike with it. Guess I have spent too much time with dry automotive type clutches (bmw) and forgot how to deal with a multi plate wet one. (lost a few brain cells over the years, most self induced) |
