| Author | Message | ||
     Pcmodeler |
If I've just turned the bike and try to restart while the engine is still hot, it has problems starting. It either takes more times to turn over than it does when the engine is cold or the starter will actually kind of lock up/stop for a few milliseconds (no cranking) and then engage again. Not really sure how to describe that second part of the problem but it's kind of like wrr...wrr...wrr....clunk...wrr...wrr :-) | ||
| Mikerocket |
Check the spark plugs. mine did the same. When you get it started touch both pipes very quick when warmed up. if one is colder then the other your plug is foul which causes it to not start or when coming to an idel it dies out. my plug below the gas tank (closest one to the front fork) was foul. I got it cleaned up and runs like a charm. Good luck man!! | ||
| No_rice |
mine did that for the for along time. your battery is more than likely getting weak, soon as i replaced mine it worked fine. you could check your connections though before buying a new one. would be my first guess atleast. | ||
| Pcmodeler |
Thanks guys. I had checked the plugs when I put it away last fall and they were OK. I'm thinking maybe the battery then. | ||
| Skully |
Maybe check the battery connections? | ||
| Fullpower |
what is the chronological AGE of the battery in your bike? there is a date code on the battery, year and month, if it is original then you can use the Build Date on the right side of your steering head. | ||
| Moonrunrs |
Same thing happened for me. It was my battery. Bike would stall out sometimes when idling too. | ||
| Firebolteric_ma |
i believe my battery is starting to go also. a little pause before turning over when hitting the switch, also my clock keeps resetting after said start procedure. checked my connections, and all seems tight. i have not used a battery tender at all in the last two years when putting away for the winter. maybe i will get one now.  | ||
| Pcmodeler |
I need to double check. If I remember right, a new battery was put in it when I bought it (used from a dealer) last February. However, I have no way of really knowing if it was a new battery when he put it in. I'll have to check the date on it. I know that I didn't keep it on a trickle charger when I bought it but the problem didn't start happening until really late fall last year. What was the recommended reading supposed to be on the battery.....isn't it like 11.8 or higher? | ||
| Fullpower |
fully charged, no load, resting (12 hours) voltage should be 12.8. this is NOT an indicator of the available cranking power your battery can provide. to determine the health of your battery you must use a LOAD tester.look in the yellow pages, you will find an auto electric rebuilder in your area, a nice person at your local auto electric business will likely load test your battery- free of charge. | ||
| Skully |
Dean - Is there any reason he can't switch the lights on and check the battery voltage? Even with the headlights on my battery still shows ~12.5 volts. Keith | ||
| G4string |
Voltage is not the same as amprage. If your battery is failing, you will still might indicate ~12V but your output amprage will be lower than what it should be. I think it has something to do with capacitence? | ||
| Blake |
"Voltage is not the same as amprage. ... I think it has something to do with capacitence?" Dude.  | ||
| Danxb9r |
These bikes are known for eating plugs! Never rev the bike when cold that will foul out plugs quicker and change the plugs every 4k miles or so. | ||
| Skully |
These bikes are known for eating plugs! That is news to me! I have 25,000 mikes on my XB9 which includes several track days and races. At each 10,000 mile scheduled replacement of the plugs, they look barely used. Keith |
