| Author | Message | ||
     Isaac |
Hi there...... I called my dealer today, regarding my handling oddities with the Uly. He said, that in principle, there is nothing wrong, but the tire pressures, that were too low. This is weird, because they adjusted the pressures just 3-4 weeks ago when they did the first service. Should I adjust the tire pressures every week? Is this normal? Reg isaac | ||
| Roadrailer |
Even a puncture-free tire can lose air over time, and ambient temps can have a pretty dramatic effect on tire pressure. I check mine before every ride. At a bare minimum every week. You're lucky you weren't running on flats. A month is way too long. | ||
| Aeholton |
I found that since I ride (almost) every day my tire pressures don't change. I still check them weekly. | ||
| Windrider |
Isaac, Tire pressure is critical. Check it often. At least twice/week. Before every ride is best. Past history doesn't predict the future with tires and pressure. A leak can develop at any time and if you aren't on top of it you won't know until the bike does something strange and unwanted. Your life is suspended in that little bit of air when you are up on a motorcycle. Happy Trails. | ||
| Galloper |
Isaac, does your bike handle better now with the increased tire pressure? You mentioned in a different thread that your bike was shaking. Does it still shake? Mine doesn't shake at all and I took it over 180km/hr. | ||
| Isaac |
I still dont know. I will take the bike from the dealer tomorrow evening and then I will be able to make a report. Im no expert on this tire pressure matter, but according to my guts, a 3000 km bike, that just turned 3 months old, with no abuse whatsoever, should not present leaks in both tires at the same time. this is the second time they have to adjust the pressures, one every 1500 km..... and they said the pressure was WAY too low. The shake has been there since day 1, and after long consideration and lots of experiments, I can conclude Im not crazy, and its there. But now the dealer tell me the handling oddities are caused by a low pressure..... but why are both tires leaking air? Could they be assembled in a wrong way? | ||
| Roadrailer |
Like I said before, tires can lose air over time. Remember that the air is a gas, so it can gradually seep out microscopic imperfections bewteen tire and rim, valve stem, etc. And, again, temperature can have a huge effect on that tiny volume of air. It doesn't mean there's anything wrong with the tires or wheels. Is this your first bike? (Message edited by roadrailer on March 29, 2006) | ||
| Isaac |
Roadrailer, actually, its not..... nor my first vehicle. Ive been riding for 6 years now (though not too many miles), but I never experienced something like this. I can understand some pressure adjustment over time, but this is way too bad for me, or better said, if this is normal, Im not used to it. I never had this handling issue (I had scooters, an Aprilia RS 250 and a Sportster) and I never had problems with the tire pressures. Anyways, if this pressure loss is normal, I wonder whats the real adventure use of a bike that looses WAY to much pressure in under 1500 km. Of course, and following your advice, I will monitor the pressure at least once a week, but Im sure I will measure the pressure going down too fast. | ||
| Stevenknapp |
Another thought is your gauge. If you're setting the pressures and the bike still has some issues, maybe your gauge isn't spot on. I had a nice dial type. Paid $40ish for it. Was wondering why dealers and the like never set my pressures right. Turns out that over time it became inaccurate. MCN's review seemed to indicate that the cheap digital gauges were the way to go. And I have a couple. Any time I question the reading, I just grab another and make sure they are close. | ||
| Isaac |
I did not adjust the pressure myself, the dealer did it for me all the time (3 times actually, when I got it, the first service, and now). | ||
| Galloper |
Isaac, I check my tire pressure (car & bike)every week. You'd be amazed how much it can change. | ||
| Eor |
I check mine before every ride...sometimes that is 2-3 times per week. I often have to add 1-2 pounds of air to get it "juuust right." Several bikes in the garage here...they all lose air at different rates. | ||
| Isaac |
Thanks all..... It looks I might be checking the pressure more often for the next couple of weeks to see whats going on..... Ill also have to get myself one of those gauges to measure. | ||
| Roadrailer |
Anyways, if this pressure loss is normal, I wonder whats the real adventure use of a bike that looses WAY to much pressure in under 1500 km. The pressure loss will have no effect on the bike's abilities, as long as they are checked regularly. My guess is your loss is very gradual, and only seems extreme because they are checked so infrequently. Get a good gauge, and check them every week or more. | ||
| Jlnance |
FWIW - If you ever have to let air out of a tire to get the pressure down to spec, it is supprising how little air has to come out to drop it a couple of pounds. | ||
| Isaac |
I got the bike from the dealer. The reseted the TPS (for the idle issue) and inflated the tires as they think they should be. I also got myself a small pressure thingy to measure it more often. Well..... at first sight, the movement in the front end is gone. Even when its really windy, its not there anymore....at least it was not there yesterday when I picked the bike up. Today, I could feel it a little bit more. But no, its not solved yet. The bike would not start this morning. As they seted the idle according to the manual (5.5 volts or whatever) now the bike wont start if i do not use the throttle, but if I do, and it does not start, I will have to switch everything off and retry again, otherwise will not start. It took me 15 mins to start it up this morning. About the pressure, I measured it yesterday night and this morning, with an astonishing difference of 3 psi in every tire. I looked at the tire to check the official GOOD pressure, and I was shocked to see that the rear one should be on 42 psi, when I measured 33 yesterday, and 30 today. I went back to the dealer (very helpful guy I must say). He recommended not to inflate the tires, and check the pressure in 2-3 days (to rule out my possible stupidity when measuring the pressure). He believes there is something wrong with the tires, as he is trying to get authorization from the distributor to change them. Regarding the idle-not firing up issue, he said I should not be conservative when riding/treating the bike. The more conservative, the more issues (he says), so he recommended to try being a m***** f**** and not warm up the engine and so, to see how it goes. What do you think guys? are my pressures right? And about the starting? Do you use throttle to fire it up? (I must say no matter how cold it is, it wont fire up in the mornings without throttle) | ||
| Roadrailer |
The pressure listed on the sidewall is a maximum. Suggested pressure in the owners manual is 36f/38r. What did your tech set the tires at?A three pound loss is not uncommon, for the various reasons discussed before in this thread. What kind of gauge are you using? If it's one of those stick-type gauges, throw it away and buy a real dial gauge. I like Reb-co gauges. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=REB%2D280%2D8710& N=400131+301339+4294907783+115&autoview=sku. (Message edited by roadrailer on March 31, 2006) | ||
| Bienhoabob |
Cold starts in cold weather (under 40 deg) no throttle, three or four rotations/cranks to start. warmer weather, no throttle, one to three rotation/cranks to start. warmed up motor, no throttle, one rotation/crank to start. | ||
| Aeholton |
No throttle at start-up and no throttle for the first 2 minutes of warm-up. I ride easy for the first mile or so, then ride it like you stole it. When resetting the TPS, the throttle stop screw is backed all the way off. Then the TPS is zeroed. After that it should be adjusted to 5.1 volts. Then the bike must be warmed up (to 300F if I recall correctly). Then the throttle stop is further adjusted to 1050rpm. It should not just be adjusted to a certain voltage. | ||
| Lowflyer |
The owner's manual (pages 50-51) states how the bike is to be started. If you follow that procedure, and it does not start, begin troubleshooting or take it in for service. At least that is what I would do. | ||
| Isaac |
I got a Harley Davidson one, looks good quality (well built), and is similar to what you posted. I dont know how the dealer did the idle set-up, I just know that it does not start up. About the pressure, I dont know what was the original pressure as I took the bike 2 days after they adjusted it, but I know it lost 3 psi in one night. Ill keep monitoring. | ||
| Roadrailer |
A three pound drop overnight isn't unheard of, and would only be an issue if they continued to drop until flat. Any chance you're letting out a bunch of air while pressing the gauge onto the stem? Try this, to remove as many variables as possible: Tomorrow morning, before riding the bike, check the pressures and adjust to suggested pressure in owner's manual. Make note of the outside temp when you do this. Ride as normal. The next day, at the same time, before riding the bike, check the pressure again, and record the outside air temp. Come back here and report your findings. | ||
| Crusty |
What kind of gauge are you using? If it's one of those stick-type gauges, throw it away and buy a real dial gauge. I have to disagree. The stick type guages are some of the most accurate and consistent tire guages you can buy. Personally, I prefer Syracuse brand guages. The more expensive dial type guages are more likely to be off, as they have more delicate parts that are affected by shock and vibration. At Americade, one year, Dunlop was testing tire guages for anyone, and they were giving out stick type guages to everyone whose dial type guage was incorrect. They gave away hundreds (probably thousands) of stick guages. None of the stick guages was off by more than one PSI. The majority of dial guages were very inaccurate. I work with precise air pressure and vacuum guages as part of my job. Digital electronic guages are the most accurate and consistent guages to use. We use analog dial guages only if they have been tested and calibrated within the previous month. | ||
| Roadrailer |
I have to disagree. The stick type guages are some of the most accurate and consistent tire guages you can buy. Personally, I prefer Syracuse brand guages. The more expensive dial type guages are more likely to be off, as they have more delicate parts that are affected by shock and vibration. At Americade, one year, Dunlop was testing tire guages for anyone, and they were giving out stick type guages to everyone whose dial type guage was incorrect. They gave away hundreds (probably thousands) of stick guages. None of the stick guages was off by more than one PSI. The majority of dial guages were very inaccurate. I work with precise air pressure and vacuum guages as part of my job. Digital electronic guages are the most accurate and consistent guages to use. We use analog dial guages only if they have been tested and calibrated within the previous month. If you're talking about the el cheapo dial gauges you can get in a bin at Auto Zone, maybe. But the vast majority of stick gauges I've used were hard to read and highly inaccurate, even failing to give consistent back-to-back readings. That's before the exposed barrel gets loaded up with dirt, dust, and grease. You're not going to find many tire professionals (not the local tire shop wrench)who will suggest a stick gauge over a quality gauge like the one I linked to above. Or take a walk around the pits of your next local club race; not a stick gauge in sight. There's a reason for that. My five-year-old Reb-co gauge has been checked yearly against a buddy's $300 Intercomp gauge (which is calibrated every season), and it has always been within a 1/2 pound or so. Granted, you do have to be careful with them. (Message edited by roadrailer on March 31, 2006) | ||
| Crusty |
I've got a 15 year old Syracuse stick that I just throw in my tool kit. It's still accurate to +/- 1 PSI. I think it cost me four bucks from Snap-On. It's not as accurate as my SMC digital at work, but I don't know of ANY analog guages that could take that punishment and even work at all. Unless you are very delicate with how you treat your guage, and you have it recalibrated on a regular basis, I'd say throw that dial away and get a reliable stick. (Message edited by Crusty on April 01, 2006) | ||
| Lowflyer |
I'm a stick gager too. I have never had one that was off by more than a pound (that I know of). I keep one in a Ziplock stowed in my bar bag along with a tread-depth gage. The dial gages are appealing and look more business-like, but I have just never had a problem with a stick gage being inaccurate or hard to read. | ||
| Isaac |
All right...... I followed your advice, and the dealer one..... I did not inflate the tires, and checked the pressure often, always with the tires cool, and the same ambient temperature. Here is what I discovered: - If the bike is stored, the tires will not loose air. - If I ride the bike, they loose air at 2 pounds per 70 km rate, this means, every time I take the bike to go to the city, they will loose 2 pounds, what will end up with flat like tires in about 4/5 weeks. What ya think? Is it normal to loose 2 pounds at a continuous rate and only when riding? For those who dont trust me, I made sure to take the pressure with the same air temperature and always when the bike was stopped for few hours (cool tires) and always making 2/3 measurements to make sure I was not leaving too much air away from the tire. | ||
| Lowflyer |
Yes, but were you kneeling on the same knee everytime you checked the pressures? (Message edited by lowflyer on April 04, 2006) | ||
| Isaac |
Haha....... s***...... I forgot the knee........ I also forgot to mention, I only take the bike once a week, that why I can only see the flat tire after 4/5 weeks. | ||
| Roadrailer |
Are you saying that both tires lost exactly the same amount of air over the same time/distance? That's very odd. How many times did you get this result? Once, or was it repeatable? I assume you checked your rims and tires for visible defects. I noticed you also mentioned you checked pressures after the tires had cooled off, but unless you took a temperature reading on the tire surface there's no real way to know. That's why I suggested doing it first thing in the morning, so there's no chance the tire is still retaining heat from being ridden. It's an important distinction. | ||
| Isaac |
Well..... I checked them in the morning, and long hours after a ride, Im sure they were completely cooled (its still pretty cold here in Amsterdam). Yes, I can repeat the experiment any time. I pick the bike, ride about 70 km, let it cool for several hours outside, and both tires loose about 2 pounds (the rear a little bit less). The rims and tires have no apparent damage. (Message edited by isaac on April 04, 2006) | ||
| Roadrailer |
Yes, I can repeat the experiment any time. I pick the bike, ride about 70 km, let it cool for several hours outside, and both tires loose about 2 pounds (the rear a little bit less). How many times did you get this result? You mentioned you only ride the bike once a week, which led me to believe you had only seen this result once. And what are you comparing those pressures compared to: pressures taken that morning, or the day previous? Sorry for al the questions, just trying to help diagnose the problem.} | ||
| Fastfxrs |
Isaac, If you don't start riding your Uly more than once a week, I'm going to take your pressure gauge away! LOL Seriously, I hope you get the hard starting problem fixed. Tim | ||
| Ulendo |
Issac - just a wild guess here about your hard starting issue, but if you're in Amsterdam, what fuel are you using? octane rating? I've seen a few instances of vehicles going either way (european to N.America, or vica versa) where things like alcohol enhanced, and other fuel additives effect the fuel system. anyone on here know the effects of Euro 2 alcohol mixed fuels on the DDFI system? I'm still pretty new to Buells, but the specs says its a closed loop system - is there possibly an O2 sensor on there somewhere that might be non compatible with euro / methanol+ / ethanol+ fuels ? like I said, just a wild guess at trying to be helpful. chris | ||
| Blake |
Ethanol mix - okay. Methanol - not okay. If that much air is leaking out in just 70 km, then you should be able to identify the leak using a little soapy water or at most a submersion test. | ||
| Blake |
Unless of course the leak only occurs while riding.  You might try installing a set of the aluminum or stainless steel valve caps that have the little o-ring to help further protect against valve stem valve leaking. They are mandatory on racing motorcycles where the high speeds and bumps can generate significant force, enough to depress the valve and release air from the tires. That's it isn't it?! You've been riding at 200 mph!  | ||
| Galloper |
@ Ulendo: here in the netherlands we have 95 oct and 98 oct fuel. I fill mine up with 95 and she runs fine on it. |
