Author |
Message |
2k4xb12
| Posted on Monday, March 20, 2006 - 09:44 am: |
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Does anybody have their service manual handy? I need the part number for the wheel bearing removal tool (front wheel). I forgot to look it up last night and want to call the dealer today. Also, has anybody purchased this? How much should I expect the stealer to charge? Finally, what have people been paying to have the stealer change the bearings? Thanks... Steve. |
Cmhxb9
| Posted on Monday, March 20, 2006 - 10:30 pm: |
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Steve: That's Part No. HD44060 Wheel Bearing Remover/Installer. Regards, PB |
Roc
| Posted on Tuesday, March 21, 2006 - 12:11 am: |
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I have used a brass punch to knock the bearing out from the opposite side. Insert it in the axle spacer and walk bearing out by striking the inner race on opposite sides, working around the bearing. I'm pretty sure this is not a good thing to be doing to your wheel, I think bearings might go in a little too easy after a few removals, but it will work. |
S2pengy
| Posted on Tuesday, March 21, 2006 - 11:43 am: |
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On the early Buells the spacer was held in place and tight enough that you couldn't get a punch on the bearing... Real pain |
Jackbequick
| Posted on Tuesday, March 21, 2006 - 11:45 am: |
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Is that a internal expanding collet/sliding hammer type tool? If so, here is an ad hoc solution that has worked for me in various instances (but not on a XB12S wheel) in the past. Take a flat washer that is slightly smaller than the O.D. of the bearing and narrow two opposing sides (equal amounts and parallel to each other) until that will slip through the I.D. of the bearing. Then drop the washer in and put a longish, double nutted, threaded rod through it. Slide something heavy and with a hole through it over the other end of the rod and double nut it again. You now have a sliding hammer. Hold the rod parallel to the bore and give a couple of gentle to moderate "lift taps" and if the bearing moves it should work. On an aluminum wheel, I'd point a heat lamp at the wheel hub for a couple of hours first. And I'd douche the bore down with PB Blaster or motor oil. You can also modify this with external hollow spacers and tightening the nuts to jack the bearing out. If you do that, tighten the nut a little to preload the bearing and then tap the rod to get the movement. Repeat that until movement is pretty easy. Double bearings might prove a little more challenging than single bearings. Sometimes when you pay someone extra to do it right, he is in the back room doing exactly what I describe here and the only difference is he may be using more expensive tools. Jack |
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