| Author | Message | ||
     Isham |
So I go to start the bike after i havent ridden it in 3 days and the bitch wont start. Battery is completely drained. When I rode it last thursday I had the hi beams on. Does the altinator not charge well enough or what? Bike has 7k miles. I just ordered a battery tender. | ||
| Isham |
I jump the bike with my car and it runs for about 5 minutes and just dies. Thats a bad stator? I'm going to try the diagnostics I found in the manual in a little while. | ||
| Isham |
Well I do the test for continuity between a ground and the stator leads and theres continuity on all leads. Which I guess means a bad stator. Looks like I need a ton of tools to complete this job. What the hell! Two claw puller, sprocket locking link, spring compression tool, clutch spring forcing screw. Is all this needed just to change the stator. I have to get past the primary chain/clutch just to get to this??? OMG. This has nothing to do with the stator but. To take the headers out. What's the best way to get to the rear header nuts? (Message edited by isham on February 05, 2006) | ||
| Chainsaw |
Bummer. I'm assuming the bike is no longer under warranty. To take the headers out. What's the best way to get to the rear header nuts? 'Turning the engine down" is the official way. Another Badwebber by the name of Bud gets to the rear nut by removing the seat, cooling fan and O2 sensor. Details are around here somewhere, post has gotta be 2-3 years old. | ||
| Diablobrian |
did you check the voltage from your alternator leads with the bike running? should be around 124vac IIRC. This could just as easily be a bad voltage regulator. Always check the easy stuff first. | ||
| Reepicheep |
You don't need all that stuff for the stator, it's not that complicated. Take off the shifter linkage and then primary cover. Put the "locking bar tool" such that it jams the two sprockets together. I built the tool out of a piece of scrap aluminum, rumor has it that in a pinch you can get a towel jammed in the sprockets and chain such that it will work as well, but it would probably be easier to use brass or aluminum scrap (something softer then the steel). Remove the entire clutch assembly, rotor cup, and primary chain as a single unit. You don't have to take the clutch pack apart, it will come off as a unit. The stator is then right there to be replaced. Sounds like you do have a bad stator if you are seeing that short to ground. The primary probably stinks like crazy as well. Make sure you have a manual, some of the bolts loosen "backwards". Also, I believe they updated the torque specification for the nut that holds the rotor cup on and made it "freaking tight", so you might want to do a little research to find out what that is supposed to be. That will save you from redoing part of the job a week later. I know the metal Cometic primary gaskets were good for at least 3 uses before they would leak, I don't know if the new factory Buell gaskets are as good and can be reused. If you don't want to be the one experimenting, have a new one on hand. I never had any problem reusing the shifter seal, but it would not hurt to replace it. | ||
| No_rice |
i would check the alternator and easy stuff first. by jumping it you could easily be getting enough juice to idle for a few minutes. out of curiosity are you jumping it and removing the cables right away after it starts and then it dies shortly there after, or are you leaving them hooked up while its running and it still dies? | ||
| Reepicheep |
Its a simple system, if you are seeing a short to ground through any of the three stator leads, then it is either the stator, or the wiring coming off the stator. It's possible that it could be shorted outside the primary case, but highly improbable. If the wiring is shorted, it is where it goes under a plate behind the stator magnet cup. Either way, you are pulling the stator (and probably replacing it) to solve the problem. | ||
| Isham |
No rice. After I remove the cables it runs for a bit then dies. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Thats because the battery charged up a little while you were jumping... once that charge is consumed, the bike dies. | ||
| Isham |
This doesn't look good at all...   | ||
| No_rice |
just moisture in the primary. its fine basically(does need to be flushed though). mine got bad like that before. i cleaned off the inside of the cover in your pic, and drained all the fluid out of the primary. put fresh in and ran it that way for awhile. to get some new mixed around in there and thin out the goo. then drained it again and refilled. it is not uncommon for water to get in there when washing or riding in the rain. try and get the boot around the clutch lever adjustment nuts(on clutch cable near front of motor)sealed up with zip ties or something. some people fill it with grease or something along those lines before they zip tie the ends of the boot shut. |
