| Author |
Message |
    
Joey
| | Posted on Monday, December 11, 2006 - 12:38 pm: | 
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I know the Buell Pro cams are $259, but I imagine the SE550 cams will give me more of what I want. The only thing I won't do myself is the case boring. If Spring is on its way by the time I have enough cash, I'll probably just go 515 to avoid missing ride time. Is 27K really a lot of miles? I figured I was just getting started! |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Monday, December 11, 2006 - 12:41 pm: |
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Its a good start!
GT - JBOTDS! EZ |
Swampy
| | Posted on Monday, December 11, 2006 - 10:06 pm: |
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OK! Heres my thought(remember I haven't said anything yet):
Stock bore, SE ignition, big cam, lots of head work.
Go high compression head, higher rev ignition, lighter valves with great head work, and a bump stick for mid range(and the oil pump gear) The rest of your money could go for rearsets, and tires and gear.
Buell is going to come out with an XB Blast soon anyways in the 600cc range so why not wait for that?LOL!
Also, when you get your bike apart, check the oil pump drive gear mating with the pinion gear. In the big bike Knowledge vault there a few pictures of a mis match between gears which they think is causing premature failure. The cure is removing material off the face of the oil pump housing to get the gear to set deeper on the pinion gear. |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Monday, December 11, 2006 - 10:33 pm: |
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Cams are $200-$350. Apparently you must still buy all 4 cams to get the SE 550 cams (XL'04 cams).
New brake caliper? Is yours bad?
27k isnt a lot, but it maybe for the oil pump drive gear! |
Joey
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 12, 2006 - 08:10 am: |
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Swampy--I alreay thought all that through. It was going to be my last choice if I knew I wouldn't have another chance to go bigger. Income tax refund time is coming! How much do you suppose revperf would be asking for a 4.125" kit?
I keep making comparisons in my head between motorcycle engine stuff and car engine stuff. If I can get a complete high-performance cam shaft for an overhead cam 4-banger for $88, why wouldn't a set of high performance cams on the Blast be $99? Then I have to remember that for every Blast cam set sold, a hundred cam shafts are sold for overhead cam 4-bangers. Any time you produce a whole lot of somethings, you can do it for less per unit than if you just produce a few somethings.
My caliper is bad. I tried spanking it, but that didn't help. It tends to seize up when I use it in cold weather. It used to do it around 40 degrees, but now it's doing it at 60 degrees.
What I really want is the comfortable seat! I'm too heavy for my seat--I bottom out on the foam. Add that to an injury I got slipping on wog slime on an aircraft carrier, and I'm in pain if I ride for an hour. I plan to send the seat to Sargent's.
The Givi A760 is on its way, which means I can ride on cold days, but I think I'm going to avoid the snow this winter. I learned my lesson a couple winters ago.
I'd like to fix my oil pressure idiot light, too, so that if I do have a failure, I'll know before the engine seizes. Even if I don't get to my engine this winter, I'll still be having fun!
(Message edited by Joey on December 12, 2006) |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 12, 2006 - 11:30 am: |
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Change your brake fluid - sounds like water is in it.
GT - JBOTDS! EZ |
Buellistic
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 12, 2006 - 11:52 am: |
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In FACT you should change your brake fluid
once a year !!!
In BLASTing
LaFayette |
Joey
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 12, 2006 - 03:08 pm: |
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I did a brake flush and noticed an improvement, but that was 2 years ago. I'll do another before I go any further. It didn't fix the problem, just made it better. It all started shortly after they salted the roads out here.
Now that I know a lot more about my Blast than I did a few years ago, I'm working up a better maintenance plan, including some experimental bearing repacking attempts.
Hey, wait! This is off the subject! |
Swampy
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 12, 2006 - 04:19 pm: |
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Change your brake fluid once a year!
I know they recommend DOT 4, but if you flush the system real good, Dot 5 won't absorb water throught the brake hoses like DOT 4 will. I use DOT 5 in my Sportster because it won't hurt the paint! |
Xgecko
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 12, 2006 - 07:53 pm: |
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I changed the brake fluid front and rear when I pulled the bike out of storage this spring...but in truth I didn't notice any difference at all. Now as a caveat I have stainless brakelines front and rear so they already feel really good. |
Berkshire
| | Posted on Monday, May 05, 2008 - 07:23 pm: |
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Does anyone have pics of a bottom end tear down and/or assembly?
I'm curious about how many "loose" gears and itsy-bitsy little pieces there are vs. how many are held on the shafts with snap rings & such?
Which special tools are absolutely required? I can cut a steel bar to lock the primary, and I think I can also make a low-budget clutch spring compressor out of an oil filter "socket". I have snap ring pliers, and I can get the piston pin retaining rings to go in without the special tool. So... are there any special tools needed that can't be homemade?
Has anybody converted an earlier bike to the later main bearing setup? |
Rick_a
| | Posted on Saturday, May 17, 2008 - 10:24 am: |
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If you're not replacing the crank/bearings it's very straightforward. I would suggest a cam locking tool and piston pin puller. A piston pin puller can be homemade, too. Some suggest using a punch, but I wouldn't, and don't. |
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